Well...did 220, 260, 320 twice and 400 twice. Pores filled. Last night I buffed with 0000 steel
wool and carefully wiped off excess oil with a lint free cloth. Probably should have used softer
t-shirt.

I am going to let it set a couple of days then think about it some more. Right now I see little
metal fibers in the finish I put on last night. Not many but a few. Also there are a couple of spots
I inadvertently touched. No problemo.

To get rid of the fibers I think I'll go over it by wrapping a small ball of rag in 1500 grit sandpaper
and gently buff the stock with lots of oil then wipe off with soft t-shirt rag. I have to get a couple
of small eye-bolts to put in the bolt holes so I can steady it without touching the stock.

I like the idea though of the steel wool since it will spread the pressure more evenly and "flow"
over the curves better.

Any thoughts or comments appreciated.

Roger, I don't use steel wool once I get the finish where I want it, or at any other time for that matter. I use small drops on the stock and rub it in with my hand. Rub it until it is almost hot and it will not show that your hands were on it. Put on several coats, like 5 or more to get a built up finish.

Take some 0000 Steel wool and unwind the pad so you have a big long piece. Take it outside and hang it on something that won't burn easily. Set the steel wool on fire and let it burn until all the oil is consumed. Now, GENTLY roll the pad back together. If you wet sand with steel wool prepped like this it won't make noticeable marks on the finish! Try it... But the pads don't last long either...

Chic,

Thanks for that. I had been wanting to get that "buffed" look but then at this stage I can pretty much go anywhere. If something doesn't work, I'll just wet sand it away

Kentucky, last time I tried to burn steel wool...it BURNED and but good too. Great for starting fires. I can just dip it in methylene chloride and that'll degrease it instantly. I'll try that on a hidden spot and see how it works.

Thanks for the tips guys.

I don,t use steel wool anymore because of the steel slivers that always get left behind, just like you're talking about. When I need a steel wool like material, I use the synthetic abrasive pads that 3M makes. Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen has given me excellent results for the final finishing.

NEVER use steel wool of any kind on wood..the steel particles will stick in the wood and rust in a few months or so and look ugly and destroy the adhesion of the finish....

You can use 3m scotchbrite in the final stages. but 400 grt paper works as well and finish after a weeks cure with a light Rottenstone and oil rub.

Ray, I have seen those Scotch pads, I'll have to run down to Freddies and take a look at them.

On the 3M pads, the green is most abrasive and the white is the least, the white ones won't scratch SS ovens or most any painted suface, walls, refers etc. My wife used them for cleaning at the Airforce Base years ago.

Sorry, my recommednation for the "burnt" steel wool were for use on a final finish of a stock. Not raw wood. Its a technique taught to me by a smith who worked at Jagers to cut down the sheen on a glossy finish. Like everyone else I don't like using steel wool on raw wood. Once you get down to sanding at 400 grit and beyond the job is pretty much done. The finish will fill and hide anything smaller,

Kentucky I was just pulling your chain.

Roger...yeah I figured that.. The burning does more than de-grease it. It softens the wool and makes it less abrasive. Your original post was about wet sanding and I assumed you meant the final steps of cutting back the finish. Now I see you are working with raw wood and raising the grain etc.
Try my method on the stock finish like you said with a little linseed oil. Looks as good as rottonstone!

As the others have said, no steel wool on stocks. I don't use the green scrub pads. When you use anything that has much give you will not get a perfectly flat surface, that will show up when you rub it out and look wavy. Always back the sand paper. I use scraps of thick leather or a rubber backer. Do not back it with your fingers for the wide open spaces. For the scallop above the grip and such use you fingers but be carefull not to break through the sharp edges. I stop at 400 wet dry, no need to go finer. You should be using it wet. Just keep a bowl water handy that has a drop of dish soap in it. That will keep the powdered finsh from making pills on the paper. Once it is uniformly "blocked" with the 400 grit use the red automitive rubbing compound and a CLEAN soft rag to rub it out and remove the fine scratches from the 400 grit. Use extra water to make it cut easy and not glaze the rag. For a mirror finish use automitive polishing compound, the white stuff. I prefer the satin look of the red compound.

[ 12-10-2002, 00:58: Message edited by: scot ]

I've always used the red industrial grade scotch brite pads when I get to about where I want to go. After I "whisker the stock", I start with a diluted oil to fill the pores and buff it back down with the scotch brite pad for the first couple of coats. After about three or four coats I buff it with a burlap rag for a while. It always comes out scratch free, looking good. If you want a real high gloss stock, buff with some old sweat pants.

My two cents.

Eric