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Mark X Mauser bolt question?
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Picture of Kabluewy
posted
This is somewhat difficult for me to explain, so I'll go into some detail. Please bear with me, because I'm trying to not make this too difficult, but give facts.

I bought a Mark X bolt, standard bolt face, with extractor only. I had in mind using it in a military '98 Mauser receiver mostly to avoid the cost of having the military bolt handle cut then a new one welded on.

The bolt fits the military receiver OK, and I think the lugs will lapp in OK.

I was studying everything carefully, and tried fitting the varouse parts together, commercial vs military, etc. I also tried the bolt in a Mark X receiver. Everything seems completely interchangable, and the Mark X bolt worked easily into all the receivers I have - with the bolt stripped except for extractor.

However, with the firing pin, spring, shroud, cocking piece assembly screwed into place, the new Mark X bolt requires that I push forward hard on the bolt handle to allow it to close. I noticed the bolt didn't close as easily as the other bolts I have, which include military, FN and Husqvarna - all '98s.

All the while, I thought the difficulty was because the three-position safety shroud was not yet fitted, and the cocking piece is not yet mated to the trigger.

Today I noticed a difference in the bolts, which I did not know about before. The newly purchased Mark X bolt is different compared to all the other Mauser bolts I have. At the rear of the bolt, where the V notch is for the cocking piece to fall into is where the difference exists. One side of the V serves as a camming surface to move the cocking piece back as the bolt is lifted. The camming side of the V on the (newly purchased) Mark X is stepped.

I don't understand why this difference exists. Also, I don't understand how this will effect the possible use of this bolt in the military receiver or any other receiver. Do I need a special cocking piece, firing pin or spring, or perhaps the shroud is different for this bolt?

Hopefully the answer is simpler than the question.

Thanks, KB


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Posts: 12818 | Registered: 16 February 2006Reply With Quote
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Picture of ramrod340
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YOu have a late model speedlock bolt. You will need a speedlock cocking piece or alter the one you have. You would need to move the point that contacts the sear rearward the distance of the step. You are compressing the spring as you close. Triggers etc are the same.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Kabluewy
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Thanks. Makes sense so far. I'll think about it, and may have some follow up questions.

KB


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Posts: 12818 | Registered: 16 February 2006Reply With Quote
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Picture of ElCaballero
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Yep Speedlock bolt. I'll get some pictures PM'd to you. I saw an old thread with really good pictures and diagrams maybe I can find it.


As a general rule, people are nuts!
spinksranch.com
 
Posts: 2108 | Location: Missouri, USA | Registered: 02 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of ramrod340
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quote:
Yep Speedlock bolt. I'll get some pictures PM'd to you. I saw an old thread with really good pictures and diagrams maybe I can find it.

Yep I was in the middle of that thread. The ones I found the pictures were missing. If we can't find them I'll take some pics tomorrow.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of ElCaballero
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Here is the thread. LINK

I have saved the picts for future need.


As a general rule, people are nuts!
spinksranch.com
 
Posts: 2108 | Location: Missouri, USA | Registered: 02 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Kabluewy
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quote:
Originally posted by ramrod340:
You have a lot model speedlock bolt.


Is the speedlock bolt supposed to be an improvment? Is it really an improvment? Is it really speedier?

quote:

You will need a speedlock cocking piece or alter the one you have. You would need to move the point that contacts the sear rearward the distance of the step.


If I try to use the cocking piece I have, does this mean removing metal from the cocking piece, or adding metal?

quote:

You are compressing the spring as you close. Triggers etc are the same.


Yes, that makes sense.

Is there any reason this bolt won't work in the military receiver, once the cocking piece is fitted correctly?
Or should I shop for a standard bolt, or simply use the original VZ bolt in the VZ receiver?

I'm hesitant to mess with having a gunsmith weld on a new bolt handle, because I have had less than satisfactory results in the past, and because to get it done right will cost over $100, and I bought the new Mark bolt for much less than that. I think the Mark X bolt is forged with the bolt handle intact, rather than attached later, so it has to be strong.

KB


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Posts: 12818 | Registered: 16 February 2006Reply With Quote
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Picture of ElCaballero
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It is not an improvement in my opinion. Maybe for a benchrest guys that need every advantage they can get. However I am not sure how many benchrest shooters use Mark X actions.

Mark X cocking pieces bring $30 to $40 on Ebay. I bid $30 on one the other day to try and sell an action I have and I was outbid.

I need to find a gunsmith that is handy at converting military ones. I can buy those all day for $2.


As a general rule, people are nuts!
spinksranch.com
 
Posts: 2108 | Location: Missouri, USA | Registered: 02 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of ramrod340
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quote:
Is there any reason this bolt won't work in the military receiver, once the cocking piece is fitted correctly?
Or should I shop for a standard bolt, or simply use the original VZ bolt in the VZ receiver?

I'vd used MKX bolts in military action. No problems. The sppedlock reduces the firing spring fall by a LITTLE. I have both. I can not really tell any difference. The speedlock is usually a little harder to open due to the angle of the ramp.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Snellstrom
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Kabluey
I know a guy who does very nice work and will convert your military bolt with a sporter handle on it for about $65.
I would then by your commercial bolt if you need to sell it!
Bob at Bobsgun.com is the shop I've used, I've used him twice and my gunsmith uses him as well.
I'm serious about buying your bolt if you need to sell it I'm about to order one anyway.
 
Posts: 5604 | Location: Eastern plains of Colorado | Registered: 31 October 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of fireball168
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This guy has Speedlock cocking pieces, just got one from him a month or so ago.

Price was much better than Ebay.

http://www.rrguns.us/
 
Posts: 1332 | Location: IN | Registered: 30 April 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of ramrod340
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quote:
This guy has Speedlock cocking pieces, just got one from him a month or so ago

I bought a couple parts from him a year or two ago on ebay everything was as discribed. $22 for a cocking piece is a good price in my book.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of ElCaballero
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quote:
Originally posted by ramrod340:
$22 for a cocking piece is a good price in my book.



Absolutely! I have sold them on Ebay for as much as $40 and that was a standard one.


As a general rule, people are nuts!
spinksranch.com
 
Posts: 2108 | Location: Missouri, USA | Registered: 02 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of fireball168
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I think he charged me $15 buying direct - his phone number is on his website.
 
Posts: 1332 | Location: IN | Registered: 30 April 2004Reply With Quote
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