I had McGowen barrels copy a profile of a BRNO model 21 barrel and asked them to solder on the original sight sleeves from the BRZnO barrel. They were then supposed to mount the barrel to my action. They blued the barrel snd mounted it to the receiver but didn’t mount the sight bases or barrel band sling swivel. I don’t like the idea of soldering that close to the receiver, so now I think I’ll glue them on. Brownells recommended Locktite Black max 380, a super glue. I don’t like the short working time as there is no room for error. I would like a few minutes working time, so maybe a 5 minute set epoxy would work. Are there other products that will work?

JB Weld

Epoxy in the 3rd decade of the 21st century? No.

Use modern methacrylate adhesive. Select one with working and set time perfect for you.

Jiri

I solder close to the receiver regularly, you do not need to use a high temp solder. You will need to re-blue. If you are worried about the action, wrap it in a wet cloth while soldering.

black max works great, as does the smaller units of panel bond

I used super glue to glue a receiver sight base to an anchutz 22 LR that I have. It stuck instantly. No working time at all. I got lucky that I had it positioned correctly. I will use something else next time I need to do this. Don't know what. Will follow this thread for alternatives.

quote:

Originally posted by Smokin Joe:
JB Weld

I used JB Weld to stick shims and mounts together on a rifle that ran its scope out of down travel.

Use one of the Loctite retaining compounds.
If your parts are close fitting choose one to suit.
If there is some gap filling required use 660.
I use 620 because I got it for free.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.c...ining-compounds.html

Smiths been using varius solder for a long time on custom rifles, all mine are so attached, Your over reacting to heat, if done properly heat is easily handled...glue is glue, and does not have shear strength and is a crutch for poor gunsmithing..Just my two bits.

Yup, stick with solder.
Stephen

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Smiths been using varius solder for a long time on custom rifles, all mine are so attached, Your over reacting to heat, if done properly heat is easily handled...glue is glue, and does not have shear strength and is a crutch for poor gunsmithing..Just my two bits.

Glues all fail in time. Get the barrel hot, and glues, even epoxies, will come off.

It is my opinion that the rear sight sleeve and front sight base were lead soldered on, and that is what I did installing an Israeli service rifle barrel on a pre WW2 CZ action. The original CZ was a sewer pipe. Use pure lead, heat it up to 650 and sweat it under the front sight base. Works great.

Screwed and soldered. No other way.

quote:

Originally posted by WoodHunter:
Screwed and soldered. No other way.

I like your sight fixture! Looks like aan excellent method to get those sights plumb

My military front sight base was pinned. It was very easy to run a drill bit through to remove barrel steel. Barrels are made from very soft steels. That was after I soldered the base to the barrel.

quote:

Originally posted by SlamFire:

quote:

Originally posted by WoodHunter:
Screwed and soldered. No other way.

I like your sight fixture! Looks like aan excellent method to get those sights plumb

My military front sight base was pinned. It was very easy to run a drill bit through to remove barrel steel. Barrels are made from very soft steels. That was after I soldered the base to the barrel.

Aligns the sights to the bottom of the receiver the way it should be. The V blocks are adjustable vertically.

Machining the fixture base:





Milling the V blocks. The fixture base is bolted and aligned to the mill table. Gets everything lined up.

There are certain gunsmiths that can tig or silver solder sights without any damage to the bore..and yes there are those who can screw up an anvil with a powder puff!!