After seeing photos on the forum of barrel vises I decided to do mine. Thanks to James Anderson and Jim Kobe for information. I made mine from 2.5" 6061 barstock. I did not show the stand that I built to hold it. I will show it later. I made the bottom of it to bolt to the stand with 3/8"X16 socket head capscrews. The base has 3/8" studs screwed into it to hold the top of the vise. Hardened washers and tall nuts do the clamping. James suggested that I install 2 springs between the 2 pieces of the vise. It is handy. I bored it 1 3/4" to be able to use the Brownell's barrel inserts or ones that I make. I will have it hard anodized Monday.


I did counter bored the top and bottom for the springs to locate. I also counter bored the 4 places the studs stick through for the hardened washers.
The base will be anchored to the floor. It is made of 4" square tubing with .250 wall. The top and bottom plates are 3/8"X7" plate.
I got tired of using a lite duty vise that I had to clamp to my work bench. It did not grip well at all.
Butch

I don't have a 20 ton shop press. I will probably use aluminum inserts and yes, I have rosin.
Butch

Brownell's quite conveniently gives dimensions for there barrel vise. I copied their's right out of the catalog about fifteen years ago. MAd a couple or bushings. Figured I'd make new ones as I find the need.
I'd post a pic but it's the same as the catalog pic

quote:

tall nuts do the clamping

WHAT!!!

Looks good Butch.

Nice work there Butch.

One thing I have done for years is stamp a date on these type of fixtures, really may help down the road.

I made my barrel vise in Nov of 1990, from 2 1/2" square 1018. The bottom portion is 12 inches long and the top portion is 8 inches long.
I used two 7/8" grade 8 bolts and nuts to tighten it together. The bottom portion if recessed for the heads of the nuts with a slot, that way they will not turn. A 1/4" thick hardened washer with grease on it, is the bearing surface for the nuts.

I went to a 2 inch dia hole for the bushing, most of the time I use delrin inserts that have been bored and slotted. But I also made up a alum mould for those part Octagon ribbed barrels. Just set it up and cast a spl block to fit the odd barrel

I do not have any Rosin in the shop, BUT have a small can of good old Mount Staint Helen's Ash that I use, beats Rosin all to death. Also another one to use if you do not wish to scrath the barrel is powered sugar.

I later drilled two 1/2" holes in the ends of the base, and mounted the barrel vise vertially on one of the center posts in my shop. It is out of the way and always ready when I need it.

James Wisner
Custom Metalsmith

The springs are a hell of a good idea!

Being made out of aluminum are you worried about galling or stripping the treads for the block? I'd consider helicoil inserts in the aluminum...might not even be an issue, but I remember having to really crank down on an old mauser barrel and also a few Howa's.

No, my old cheapo is aluminum and never had that problem. If I do I can use an old chunk of 4340.
Butch

Plating shop called and it is finished. The body shop will pick up the base tomorrow and will paint it for me. I guess I better get with the bushings. Jim, thanks for the idea on the powdered sugar. I have no posts in my shop to attach the vise. That would be a good idea though. Charley, I think I will really like the springs.
Butch

quote:

Originally posted by CAS II:
The springs are a hell of a good idea!

Aye.

Thanks for the advise.
Butch