Just following up on Duane Wiebe's statement in the "Making it Feed" thread: "Even without ammo, this bolt was pretty cranky and wanted to hang up...about 15 minutes with lapping compound, runs very smooth".

I have a couple of zastava mausers that I think would benefit from this. So what lapping compound, and what part of the bolt? I am assuming it is the bolt body? Is it just a matter of running the bolt up and down the raceways?

I recognise the lugs are often lapped for improved contact, but dont see this effecting feeding or the bolt wanting to hang up. Interested in any comments in improving the feel of the bolt in the action as they are currently far from smooth.

I'm not qualified to answer the question, but I have lapped lugs to improve contact. I'm thinking this is a better way to slicken up the raceways:

I lap the bolt bodies and especially the cocking cams on almost all my builds, but seldom lap the lugs unless they are really out.

I use Brownell's garnet lapping compound for the finer grits like 600, 800 and sometimes even 1200, but occasionally it's necessary to begin with a coarser grit like 500 or even 400 which aren't available in garnet. I try my best to NOT do this, I like to use stones for the coarser preliminary surface finishes.

The advantage of garnet is that when worked, the crystals break down into smaller pieces with smoother edges that won't imbed into the softer metal. Carborundum and some other abrasives break down into sharper-edged particles that imbed and are difficult to remove and thus tend to continue the lapping process long after the smith wants!

Most garnets come packaged in a grease carrying agent while some other abrasives are packaged dry. If dry, I make a stiff slurry of oil mixed with the dry particles. Spread the slurry or grease on the scuffed surfaces of the bolt body and the cocking cam surfaces and, WITH THE COMPLETE TRIGGER ASSEMBLY ENTIRELY REMOVED FROM THE RIFLE'S RECEIVER, work the bolt back and forth until it travels more smoothly.

With each succeeding finer grit, be sure to ENTIRELY remove all traces of the preceding coarser grit before applying the next one. And be sure to stop lapping just as soon as you feel the bolt's travel smoothing up, with each succeeding grit.

I try to use India and even Arkansas stones to smooth these surfaces first, so that I can begin the lapping with 600 grit. The stones keep things flat and level while doing the rough preliminary work.

You'll be amazed and gratified.
Regards, Joe

Thanks for the answers.

Joe – thanks especially for your detailed post

i got in the brownells lapping grit kit and went from 320(?) thru 800 on a newer rem. 700 and MAN did it make a difference!! made a huge difference in how the bolt travel felt. thanks for the infor. guys.

Great video, but the tool's no longer available, I can only guess as to why.

Reminds me of a customer who brought me his VZ-24 action to look at for him. He'd decided to do some Gunsmithing of his own and started by lapping the lugs. He brought it to me because he was having trouble getting the third lug on the bolt to 100% contact! He'd lapped both receiver lug seats so much there were no flats left, just ramps. The bolt lugs were also ramps and he'd achieved about 60% contact on the third lug! I sold him a Turk action and explained the purpose of the third lug. I think he's since given up Gunsmithing.