Any recommendations for someone to do some minor stock work such as adding ebony tip and grip cap, and then checkering and finishing?

That is not minor and will cost you. Checkering alone is $250 and up, depending on how elaborate the pattern.
Finishing and adding the tips will be another $350 or so.

And the stock would probably have to be fit to the grip cap if you don't make one to fit

Jake Reeser, Reeser's Gun Shop, Duncannon Pa.
I had 98 custom wood stock redone,
Chased checkering 24 lpi, metal matte, matte finish and pistol grip changed from Rosewood to ebony.
Very pleased with quality of work and price.
Scott

I have watch a number of You Tube vids recently on the subject.
There is a lot of good info out there.

I have redone several rifles because I wanted a rub oil (not glossy) finish..

What were new factory finishes are now "aged"
antiques. One on a Uberti HiWall the other on a CPA Stevens 44 1/2..(done by myself after delivery of a unfinished stocked rifle)
There are lots of techniques being used. One which caught my eye was a guy who mixed a slurry (mud) consisting of the parent wood (walnut) sawdust with his treatment material (boiled linseed oil?. As he rubbed his oil into his sanded stock he would use the 'mud' to fill in small cracks and pours in the wood. Came out beautiful.

quote:

Originally posted by Tex84:
Any recommendations for someone to do some minor stock work such as adding ebony tip and grip cap, and then checkering and finishing?

NEVER use linseed oil in any form on a stock; it never dries and is a poor stock finish. It must have some driers added, like Tru oil does.
Yes, old time makers used it, but no one would ever take one out in the rain either. Linseed and turpentine, and shellac was a popular formula; a very poor finish though, pretty.
And the army used it on all wood stocks; we used to rub our M14s with it.
There are many good stock finishes out there now; many use tung or linseed oil and urethane. No need to go back to 1960.
Oh, most factory stocks were finished with varnish then.
Yes sanding and using the dust to fill pores is de rigeur in stock finishing, but not with linseed oil. I use stuff from Brownells; forgot the name; it is in the shop. It actually dries.

Brownells GUN-Sav-OR is as good as it gets, easy to use, dries properly, satin or gloss..and lasts forever under harsh conditions.

There is no need to make any slurry. You wet sand the wood with progressively finer emery, using the finish as a lubricant. This will raise the grain, make its own slurry, fill the pores, and penetrate into the wood, esp if you thin the finish oil with mineral spirits. When sanding, you leave the "mud" on the wood until it dries hard. Once the pores are filled, the mud must be removed and then you need many coats hand rubbed without emery to give it some depth, using a few drops of finish at a time, allowing time to dry between coats, at least a day or two. This process is called London Oil Finish, it will dry, and there is nothing classier or more expensive. It can be refreshed or repaired very easily without sanding or stripping. If there is one drawback, it does tend to get dirty over the years but easy enough to clean and freshen up.

As for BLO, it has a unique ability to bring out the grain; but it must have some Japan Drier added to it. Some add a bit of tung oil for more gloss. Many add some kind of red dye to enhance the color of the wood, particularly the Winchester crowd. And yes, you can add some varnish to make your own "Tru Oil" but then it looks like a cheap Tru Oil finish with a glossy surface that will scratch.

Try the Stock Shop, Manchester, TN. He used an oil blend similar to Purdey's and does very nice checkering. He is also qyuick on the turn around - 2 to 3 weeks for checkering.

Jim Kobe in Mn can do what you’re asking about. But as others have said, that’s some tedious and costly work.