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Checkering, Where do I start.
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I want to learn to checker gunstocks etc. Where do I start? Books? Or do I just buy the tools patterns etc. and go for it? What hand tools are best? Whats a minimum set? If nothing else I figure it will give me a better appreciation of those who are really skilled. DW
 
Posts: 1016 | Location: Happy Valley, Utah | Registered: 13 October 2006Reply With Quote
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The checkering DVD by Joe Ballickie available from Brownells has a lot of good information in it.
 
Posts: 7090 | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I found Monty Kenndy's book very helpful. Then take a weeks vacation and go to Trinidad Co. next summer.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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The old question was how do you get to Carnegie Hall? Practice, practice, practice! The Balickie DVD is excellent as 22WRF has suggested. I would buy a Dembart set in 18 LPI to start practicing. Sometimes you can find old stocks on eBay cheap. These make a great canvas for practice. You will also need a checkering cradle at some point early in the process. Using old stocks for practice does not require a checkering cradle; you can clamp them on a table since you do not care about the stock. Later a checkering cradle will be critical. I have to use a magnifying lamp or head set to keep my lines straight.

Have fun and practice, practice, practice!


Jim
 
Posts: 1206 | Location: Memphis, TN | Registered: 25 January 2008Reply With Quote
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I started by redoing the factory checkering on common guns,it's usually machine done, the points aren't sharp, etc. I got a feel for it and also my guns looked better. I'm still working at starting from scratch but getting better.
 
Posts: 1689 | Location: East Coast | Registered: 06 January 2003Reply With Quote
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I taught stockmaking at Lassen many years ago. When it came to checkering...some pick it up,,others were hopeless
 
Posts: 2221 | Location: Tacoma, WA | Registered: 31 October 2003Reply With Quote
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I usually start by saving enough money to pay someone who can do it well! stir
 
Posts: 1610 | Location: Shelby, Ohio | Registered: 03 November 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
I taught stockmaking at Lassen many years ago. When it came to checkering...some pick it up,,others were hopeless


That's me.


Frank



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Posts: 12695 | Location: Kentucky, USA | Registered: 30 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Don Slater:
I usually start by saving enough money to pay someone who can do it well! stir


I agree! I gave it a try, got the book, dvd, cradle cutters. I just never had the time to dedicate to it. I think it is something that takes a good time investment to get competent at, a good bit of time + talent to be GOOD at.

Red
 
Posts: 4740 | Location: Fresno, CA | Registered: 21 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks all, There are things I wouldn't try and things I think I have the aptitude for. I think checkering is one I could do. I do leather work,do a little silver smithing and play the keyboards so I think I may have some aptitude. Time will tell however. I have an old stock to re cut checkering on and some scraps of good walnut from another project to practice on. I was given a couple of cutters and a handle the other day, all 20 lines per inch. Thanks again for the encouragement advice and cautions. DW
 
Posts: 1016 | Location: Happy Valley, Utah | Registered: 13 October 2006Reply With Quote
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Practice. I also can suggest some hopefully helpful tips.

The Kennedy book is excellent but rather dated in its styles nowadays. I found Dale Goen's ideas and techniques to be as valuable as the entire rest of the book, I recommend them highly. His suggestion about using X-ray film for patterns has made my own occasional work a LOT easier and better-looking.

For your practice, use old Mauser military stocks made from European walnut. The clean-cutting characteristics of this wood will help the novice concentrate on learning, rather than fighting wood problems from punkiness, fuzziness, etc.

I've found the full-view tools made by W.E.Brownell and sold by (Bob, no relation) Brownell's to be excellent for several reasons. They are more expensive but worth it IMO. They are adjustable for cutter angle and their spread-out shaft design helps me keep the cutting edge perpendicular to the work.
HTH, regards, Joe


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Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
The Kennedy book is excellent but rather dated in its styles nowadays. I found Dale Goen's ideas and techniques to be as valuable as the entire rest of the book


I have tried to read Kennedy's book a hundred times and for the life of me I can not get finished with it, dont know why. I get it out when I think I'm in need of a good nap.

What book? has Dale Goen's put out. I've never ran across it that I am aware of.


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Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by srtrax:
I have tried to read Kennedy's book a hundred times and for the life of me I can not get finished with it, dont know why. I get it out when I think I'm in need of a good nap.

What book? has Dale Goen's put out. I've never ran across it that I am aware of.

I apologize, I meant the stock shaping and checkering styling rather than Monte's writing style! I agree that a few changes in the wording could add much more interest, but I was specifically intending to reference the lack of mullered borders; almost all the checkering shown is of the borderless persuasion and also there are a lotta Kalifornia-style stocks with gaudy (by today's standards) decorations.

I don't believe Dale ever wrote a book himself but he has a chapter in Monte's book along with some mighty fine patterns and photos. That's the place I meant, in the interior of Monte's book before you get to all that boring stock carving in the back. Most of my own work shows a definite Goens styling influence and I have gotten a lot of splendidly useful tips from reading his recommendations. I still read and reread this Goens section of the Kennedy book, every time, when planning a new rifle and its checkering.
Regards, Joe


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Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
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Thanks for clearing that up for me, I'll get a little deeper in the book and read it - guess I've never got that far with it.

Again, Thanks JD.


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Steve Traxson

 
Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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One little suggestion that I might offer is that it's easier to cut a straight line in your arms natural swing of motion. In other words, when you set up to cut a line it's easier to keep straight if the stock is set up to cut at about the same angle that your arm would move in while you are walking, running etc. vs when it's set up perpendicular to your body. It's also less fatigueing. Yea I know fatigue from moving a little checkering tool? Do it for 10-12 hours straight and you'll start to see what I mean Smiler ...........................DJ


....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!..................
 
Posts: 3976 | Location: Oklahoma,USA | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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