I'm replacing the front sight blade on a Marlin 1895. This is a wide base blade that fit's into a dovetail that's cut into the top of the barrel.

The new one is too large to even get it started.
What's the proper procedure here, file the blade base smaller? Do I take off from the front or back or both? Do I taper it?

They usually go in and out from the right side, correct?

Thanks, Rob

[ 06-01-2003, 02:21: Message edited by: Recoil Rob ]

RR---

ALWAYS ALTER THE CHEAPEST PART... Just in case you should have to replace it.

I learned left to right but it could have just been my instructors dyslexia that determined it. I try and see which way the sight "wants" to go...if it doesn't care it's a moot point.

Left to right to remove it or install it?

I assume that's looking from breech to muzzle?

The old rule, and most often followed in the days of them 'ere big oxygen barrels was, looking from the breech end , as on a clock dial 3'O'clock drive in, 9 O'clock side drive out. Yes, they had clocks when I was a wee tad, sundials were passe like matchlocks. Sightmakers have followed the idea in 2 ways. One is for the dovetails to be parallel and the underside,like a wedge increases in thickness as it drives in. The more time consuming way was to make the side dovetail at the rear end tapered wider to the drive in side.
You MIGHT be able to determine which Mfg. theory was employed by measuring the left versus right side thickness. I asked the topic question at the W.F. Sheard gunshop in Tacoma, counterman said "Why don't you ask the old man hisself?", "Take the stairway,he came in today".
3 hours later I left understanding just how radical and inovative the famous Sheard Gold Bead sight and its manufacture was for the time. (And saw some of the late 1880's machinery and form cutters made from chilled cast iron) Yes, 60 some years ago.

I guess I do have some common sense after all!

That's what I did, measured each side of the slot and found the right (3 o'clock) side was a few thousandths larger than the left (9 o'clock) side.

I had figured out about altering the "cheapest" part, so I filed down the base until I was able to get it started, then removed and replaced, taking off where the "peening" over started until I got the right fit.

Thanks for that great story Tom.