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(re)finishing a checkered stock
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one of us
posted
I've read a bunch of posts here with good information on refinishing stocks, and I've done some small pieces with true oil with good results. I'm still not sure, however, how to deal with a checkered stock. I've got two here -- one that has never been finished, and one with a well-worn oil finish. I'd really like to get to work on both of these, but I need some advice on how to (re)finish the checkered areas.

Thanks,
Cannon

 
Posts: 269 | Location: Missouri, USA | Registered: 11 March 2001Reply With Quote
<redleg155>
posted
I've got one too that I would like to clean up. It's on an old FN Deluxe. Has nice fine checkering with a unique border to it.

Looking forward to responses. I imagine we'll here more after the shot show...

redleg

 
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Here's the advice I got from the Dembart checkering booklet and from a couple of gunsmith buddies of mine.
Do the oiling of the checkered areas last. Put on oil with a small rag or soft cloth, then wipe it off with a soft, clean toothbrush before it dries so you won't have any build up between the points. 2 coats in this manner in the checkered area should be sufficient.
 
Posts: 385 | Location: Hillsboro, Oregon | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
<Hutt>
posted
What I do is before I apply any finish to the stock is to mask off the checkered area with masking tape and trim it with an e-xacto knife.I then apply about 8 to 10 coats of arosol tru-oil.I then remove the masked off area and apply the final 2 coats over the entire stock including the checkering to seal it.This gives the appearance of freshly cut checkering.
 
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Do it as Hutt suggests....

I use a different oil in the checkering than I do for the stock finish...I use thinned (50%) flecto...apply with a toothbrush very lightly about twice. Let dry 48 hours or more between coats...

------------------
Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

 
Posts: 41892 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Thank you for the replies, gentlemen. One last question -- on the stock with the existing finish, do I need to do anything to remove the old finish in the checkering, or simply apply a fresh coat of oil over the top?

Here's the first candidate:

It looks pretty good in the photo, but has quite a few scratches and dings, and the finish is very dull and worn on the other side of the buttstock.

Thanks again,
Cannon

 
Posts: 269 | Location: Missouri, USA | Registered: 11 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Bill Soverns
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I would just refinish the stock as normal and then recut the checkering. Get a single line cutter and repoint those diamonds. Apply two coats of thinned finish to the checkered areas when you are done.
 
Posts: 1268 | Location: Newell, SD, USA | Registered: 07 December 2001Reply With Quote
<ty>
posted
I would rechecker the stock.Brownells sells the tools.checkering is not hard to do but be sure to practice on a couple of old stocks first
 
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Avoid sanding the checkering. Strip the stock with remover, checkering too. Watch out for remover and plastic grip caps. Use a bronze suede brush to get the grime out of the checkering. Better than a toothbrush and will not damage the wood. Mask off the checkering. Finish the stock. You will probably want to touch up the borders. If you have no experience checkering, you sholud leave it alone. The gashes look worse than a little finish in the wrong places. Maybe get someone who knows how to checker to do it for you? When done finishing, strip off the tape, clean the area with mineral spirits to get the tape glue off. Give it a good brushing and a cote or two of finish. If you get too much finish in the checkering, sop it up with a paper towel and brush it with a tooth or the broze brush. To much finish in the checkering looks worse than too little.

[This message has been edited by scot (edited 02-05-2002).]

 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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