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Some pics of a type B sporter in 9.3x62. I just added the crossbolt to help in repairing a stock split, and replaced a white-line style recoil pad with the more traditional red rubber. The metal has a nice patina; tangent rear sight, double set triggers, hinged lever release floorplate. What do you think of the crossbolt and recoil pad? Can't wait to get this beauty in action this fall. Thanks for looking. Todd | ||
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Todd, Nice work on both! Bill | |||
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SWEEET ! I'm just a few miles north. If you need any volunter testers ........ | |||
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Nice work, no finer rifle than an original Mauser. | |||
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Thanks for the compliments - I'm happy with the way both turned out. If I may boast , this is the best I've ever done on fitting a pad to an already-finished stock, and I didn't make a single scratch in the stock. I'm still scratching my head over how I managed that. I installed the full-sized pad, used a sharp scalpel point to mark the line to cut down to, and then did most of the shaping off the rifle with a belt sander and bastard files, frequently checking the fit. Final shaping was done in place with a fine file, then it was removed and gently gone over with 400 grit sandpaper on a backing block to remove file marks. I wish I knew how to get a nice smooth finish on rubber though. I have to thank Jeffeosso for shining the bright light of reason on my convoluted plan for the crossbolt - once he suggested a simple alternative to my original plan, it was done in a few hours, and probably much stronger than it would have been. RE: recoil, I haven't fired this rifle yet. I have another 9.3x62 with a much straighter stock, which doesn't have bad recoil at all. I will compare them closely next time I get a chance to hit the range. Best, Todd | |||
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Todd, Just trying to help a friend out on the xbolts I think it turned out great, and the stock is setup for iron sights.. less drop means harder to use irons until the point of scope only. Recoil "could" be more than the same rifle with a straight stock.. but, then again, it would be a winchester and not a B On the pad... I THINK you can take it off, and run a lighter (the long bbq lighter will be best) to smooth the edges... BUT... this might wind up with a surface that will be smooth, then it will crack on use... You can use "slickeez" as a longterm solution. Rifle looks great jeffe | |||
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VERY nice Todd. Man how I love those little Mauser carbine rear sights! | |||
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Todd, the recoil won't be that bad. I took my Type B 10.75x68 out for the first time 2 weeks ago, 347 grains @ 2350 FPS, original buttplate, stock basically identical to yours. It wasn't that bad. | |||
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Interesting you should mention that Doug. I have a 1912 Steyr with a 19.5" 7x57 barrel that I am thinking of putting in a Mannlincher style stock, using one of the Argentine carbine sights. I would just have the numbers milled off. Or maybe leave them - who knows. That one is long in the future though. Todd | |||
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You lucky dog - 10.75x68 is next on my list! Todd | |||
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I've shown them off before but here they are again. Both 10.75s, both Type Bs, different configurations (barrel contours, bottom metal). Top rifle made in 1931, bottom 1914. | |||
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Fla3006, beautiful! Two, no less. Should some insane whim cause you to sell one of those, look no further than me for a buyer. Seriously. You have my word there will be no Weaver mounts (or any other kind), low scope safeties, or other desecration executed upon them. Todd | |||
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Todd Nice rifle, nice work, excellent calibre. If you research some of my earlier posts you will discover that if you build a 10.75x68 you will owe me a royalty. I have yet to collect from RAY. [Next time HE comes to Texas... ] A 10.75x68 would be an excellent North American Big bore. | |||
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Todd, Very nice, I am redoing a Brno 21 in 9.3x62, that had been abused a little...It should be pretty nice when I am done with it and quite a find..I have only seen one other..this one is a little suspect, but I don't really care because its such a nice little rifle. | |||
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I will look into the 10.75x68 old posts. The only thing stopping me from considering it is the cost of proper bottom metal; to me, proper for that round would be hinged with a lever. $$$$$$$$ One interesting thing about this rifle, I discovered when I took it apart. Almost everything is numbered, sometimes the whole number, sometimes the last 2 - 3 digits. Most odd numbered part was the grip cap - you'd think those would be freely interchangeable. BTW rifle dates to 1922 - 1923 by serial number - 87000 range. Todd | |||
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Todd, you can buy the lever for a floorplate from brownells, cheap cheap, and I believe you can make the hinged plate yourself... just something to think about jeffe | |||
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Very nice and great calibre choice. | |||
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