Please God don't let this turn into an Atkinson 'Mausers are allready pillar bedded'/RA Berry 'no they're not' (I've been reading some old threads)

How do people treat the ZG47 when bedding? Specificaly interested in whether they free float and what they do with the 3rd screw in the forearm that bears on the barrel under the rear sight?

A stable rifle that is able to shoot from a bipod (at a pinch) without large changes in impact is required.

If, your ZG is factory original, you will substantially lower the re-sale value of this superb rifle by glass bedding it. But, it is your choice as it is your rifle. I would prefer to simply re-stock with a quality synthetic, especially for your hunting style and save the original stock.

I did one and simply stuck the doodad on the front into the mortise on the barrel with model cement and then glassed the whole works. It worked fine and pulled loose, but, it can be tricky. I wouldn't bother doing this again and would simply glass the action and free-float the barrel. My experience is that these rifles shoot like target guns in thhe factory wood, but, mine are low combs and not very good for scopes. You can waterproof the inside and even the outside using G2 epoxy and put a classic oil finish over this; with the regular glassing as done on Mausers, you should be good to go.

I alway glass the recoil lug area, 2 inches of the barrel, and the tang on a Mauser...

Anyone who takes the time to study the Mauser will observe the front recoil lug has a tit on it the fits into a large piller of the bottom metal and the tightening of the screw will pull them together and properly set the distance between the bottom metal and the action without putting accuracy destroying stress on the action in the form of a warp...The rear screw in a original Mauser also has a piller that does the same and whe both front and rear are pulled together that set the angle of the feed at a proper distance and gives you a perfectly bedded action...and if you look at it then you will see that it IS piller bedded and that is where the idea of piller bedding came from...

therefore understanding the above, gives you the knowledge to glass bed a Mauser with putting undue stresses on the action...bed the front recoil lug so that the tit and the mag recepticle come within several thousands of coming togeter, some at the tang..the idea is to have them come tight touching without any slop what so ever...The act of tightening both screws should bring the together within .005 at least...do this and the Mauser will shoot with any of them...

Many bedding jobs on Mausers will let the tang pop up when the rear screw is lossened and thats not good for accuracy, it means you have a bind in the action and if you tighten that screw the the front will pop up some when you loosen that screw...there is more to glass bedding than just flopping a gun in a batch of wet glass...

1894,

mine is not a ZG47 but a 600 in 8x64 and it also has a third screw in the forearm.

such a set up was against my believes of free floating the barrel for good accuracy and zero consistency so I considered glass bedding.

so I checked out with Alf regarding which was the best ways the glass bed the rifle. in my opinion Alf is The Man when it comes to Mauser or Brno.

he mentioned that all times except one, with a .223 Brno I reckin, got very good accuracy with the factory set up so, before doing anything, I left things as they were, loaded a few rounds with new brass and headed for the range.

the rifle printed groups way below the magic moa. even 5 shot groups did not go largen than that.

so much for the free floating theories...!

just my experience.

regards,

Montero

I call the Mauser bedding system "bushing bedding" and it's superior to what Winchester used. I have done some M70's over with glass on the lug area as Ray mentions but just a bushing in the tang. It's easy and very good.

The bushings area much easier to work with than pillars, can be filed to fit and even started over from another piece of pipe or cartridge case.