I have a model 70 Super Grade pre-64 serial #2194XX that needs a cocking piece (I think?). The bolt was missing when I got the rifle and I did find a replacement with the same bolt face, but the cocking piece will not move far enough to the rear for the safety to be engaged. I am not sure which way to go at this point, replace the cocking piece and striker or find a pre-64. the bolt will close and fire but it is hard to lift the bolt handle afterwards. There is no one in the surrounding area that I could or would take it to so I am going to have to fix it myself. I am a machinist and can to the work just not familiar with the older model 70's

Any help would be apprecated.

Doesn't the pre64 cocking piece have a relieved area on the front right side for the safety to rotate into? Without seeing it AI'd guess a little metal needs to removed on the rear of that area. Cocking piece and bolt ramp smooth?

Yes that is the problem, the cocking piece does not move far enough to the rear for the safety to rotate in to block it. Before I remove any metal I wanted to make sure that is the proper method.

set a stop up on your mill vise, clamp the bottom of the cocking piece in the vise and up against the stop so you can take it out and put it back in exactly the same spot. Use a 3/8ths carbide end mill to cut the cam back a thousandths or so and take it out and try it in the gun for function. The end mill should be just touching the scallop in the firing pin. Keep cutting it back a couple thousandths of an inch until it goes on. If you go to far you will have to shave a bit off the first sear (sear on the bottom of the coking piece) to allow the cocking piece to move forward a bit.

I outlined it with pictures in a post a while back but I disremember which post it was. It wasn't in the drawings thread.

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set a stop up on your mill vise, clamp the bottom of the cocking piece in the vise and up against the stop so you can take it out and put it back in exactly the same spot. Use a 3/8ths carbide end mill to cut the cam back a thousandths or so and take it out and try it in the gun for function. The end mill should be just touching the scallop in the firing pin. Keep cutting it back a couple thousandths of an inch until it goes on. If you go to far you will have to shave a bit off the first sear (sear on the bottom of the coking piece) to allow the cocking piece to move forward a bit.

Don't do a bubba and hit it with a Dremel.

Like that. But you don't have to remove the firing pin.

Gunsmith Rod Henrickson 70 Safety by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr


This shows the radius.

Gunsmith Rod Henrickson 70 Safety Cut by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr

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Originally posted by ramrod340:

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set a stop up on your mill vise, clamp the bottom of the cocking piece in the vise and up against the stop so you can take it out and put it back in exactly the same spot. Use a 3/8ths carbide end mill to cut the cam back a thousandths or so and take it out and try it in the gun for function. The end mill should be just touching the scallop in the firing pin. Keep cutting it back a couple thousandths of an inch until it goes on. If you go to far you will have to shave a bit off the first sear (sear on the bottom of the coking piece) to allow the cocking piece to move forward a bit.

Don't do a bubba and hit it with a Dremel.

yabut it works I has seen it dun

Thanks speerchucker

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Rolland

NP Rolland

By the way. Yabuts live in the bush. No one has ever made a yabut trap that worked worth a damn! Best bet is not to bother fawking around with yabuts. LOL

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yabut it works I has seen it dun

I will admit to having done it on a M98 Win style safety. Yes it works if done slowly and carefully. But if you have the equipment why not use it.

Here is the breakdown of the bolt It looks different from what speerchucker shows so I thought I might post these. This is the bolt that was provided with the rifle. It looks a lot like a Mauser bolt when disassembled. the cocking piece is part of the firing pin rod and does not have a pin the safety engages on top of the cocking piece, the safety lever is notched to allow the cocking piece to be captured. it is a 3 position safety. So I may need yabuts before this is over.

http://i291.photobucket.com/al...2282_zpsvljq6v0v.jpg

OK

It is a Winchester MODEL 54 bolt assembly made from 1925 - 1928 SLOW LOCK. It still has the OLD thin extractor hook, and first type firing pin.

Yes is will go in BUT

Save yourself a lot of time and go find a M70 bolt.

J Wisner

J Wisner
Thanks that is why I posted the photo of the bolt. I was sure someone could sort it out.

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It is a Winchester MODEL 54 bolt assembly

Thanks.

Just love this site someone usually has the answer

Since it won't fit I will tell my guy to put it back on the market and see if a correct bolt can be obtained. Its a shame that grandpa stored the gun with out the bolt as the gun is at least 90% with a peep sight.

What caliber is your Model 70? I may be able to help you out. What is the serial number range?

Super grade pre-64 Model 70, 30-06 serial #2194XX serial range puts it around 1952

OK, I have several pre-64 bolts, all .30-'06 bolt faces. Let me see which one would fit your need best.

There is a friend of mine in Pinedale Wyoming looking for a model 54 bolt with 30-06 face. PM me and I'll try to get youse guys together.

Rolland,

You have a Private Message.

Just to wrap this thread up, here is the PM I sent Rolland:

Rolland,

It turned out that I have four Model 70 bolts. Only two are complete with extractors and firing mechanisms, and of those, one is a pre-War model and unsuitable for your rifle. The other, with serial number 214871 inscribed on it with electro-pencil, should fit your rifle. I now have photographs, which I will send to you, if you will give me your email address.

Bill Warren

and this was his reply:

Bill
My guy got back to me last night, apparently the bolt showed up at a relatives house after an intense search. Its some kinda family matter I wish I could stay out of.
Thanks for the reply but don't need one after all.
Rolland

I wish one of my purchases could have turned out so fortuitously. I bought an original K actioned Mauser sporter in .250-3000, which had been fitted with a G&H side mount and a Lyman 35 receiver sight, from an estate.

Unfortunately, the top half of the G&H mount and the scope , as well as the slide from the Lyman sight were missing. The scope and the top half of the mount eventually turned up and I obtained them for an additional price, but the slide is still missing.