I remember about a year ago this was discussed. I cannot find any ere in Bethel, so I tried some Armor-All 2000 and am dissatisfied. It appears to be an air drying polymer. I applied this (2 coats)to a piece of aluminum then placed a small dollop of Acraglas on the aluminum. Next morning I was able to pull of the Acraglass though with some difficulty. The epoxy stuck to the Armor-All and there is a noticable film thickness to it. Quite easy to see since the Armor-All that was under the epoxy went with the epoxy when I pulled it off. I see this being a real problem when looking at the total area of a barrel and action, it would be way to difficult to seperate.

How was the Johnsons applied? Did you buff it off then apply more coats or a couple costs and leave the last on, not buffing it off?

Thanks.

I applied the J-wax with a patch and my fingers. I buffed the first application off, then rubbed a thin layer on with my fingers. I heated the action with a hair dryer to get an absolutely smooth film. (Don't bed it until cool.)

Any smooth fillet of wax in the square corners just makes the job last longer, as the rounded corners last longer than the square ones, without materailly affecting the contact area.

Worked fine for me.

Don

Roger-

I thin my wax down with mineral spirits, then apply it with a small paintbrush. Put some wax in a sealable jar, pour a little spirits in, cap it off, and shake thoroughly. Put a little more of either one in if you don't like the consistency the first time. Get it good & thin, then brush it on. It will get into every little crack this way. The spirits will evaporate quickly, leaving you a nice coat of wax behind. No need to buff. Good luck!

I'm sure I have glassed bedded at least 300 stocks and used Johnsons paste wax...I just put it on with my fingers and let it set up while I mix the glass and put the glass in the stock, not a big deal....the last and only stock I stuck was in 1959 or 60 and that was with the blue stuff.....Shinola shoe wax works just as well as anything....

Gentlemen, thank you for the quick replies. I will have to ask one of my brothers to send me a tub of the J-Wax.
Thanks again.

I'd just add one quick word of advice to using Johnson's Paste Wax for release agent....

Don't remove it after you are done! A nice coat of wax on the steel (both above and below the wood) is a great rust preventative. After final assembly of the rifle, just take an old towel and polish the wax which shows on any steel so that you can't see it. Works great.

jpb

I've used Minwax Fine Furniture Wax. Almost the same as Johnson's. I apply two coats, buffing well after each. I've never stuck a stock. I too leave it on the action and barrel when finished. Great protection against humidity.

I have also tried Sno-seal (beeswax), and used some Pam (non-stick cooking spray)once. Both worked, but the Sno-seal was better than the Pam. I think the key is to fill the surface texture of the steel with something that doesn't interfere with the curing of the epoxy. I haven't tried a light coating of a thick grease, but it might work, although it might not be optimal.

Once piece of advice--Don't let your wife see you taking stuff out of the cabinet to use for gunsmithing!

[ 06-24-2002, 19:33: Message edited by: Need Just 1 More Gun ]

Where do you all find the Johnson's wax? I've looked at every hardware & Grocery store near my house and have never seen it?

Thanks,

Mike

Mike-

You should be able to find it anywhere. Try a Wal-Mart type place.

BTW,any paste wax should work equally well if you can't find the Johnson name.

If you contact a fiberglass supply company - on the web or in most towns, you can buy a can of genuine mold release wax for about $10. It will do do hundreds of actions and it will work without experimenting with different formulas etc. Apply with a stiff brush to get into the corners and buff when dry - repeat to be sure. Check the directions on the can!

I would think any grocery or discount household store would have Johnson's Paste Wax.
I use a soft bristle brush brush to paint the ENTIRE surface of the metal with a liberal coat of wax, wait for it to "set" and apply another.
Ain't had a problem YET!
LouisB

I just wanted to tell you guys that I discovered a medium to wrap around the barrel when bedding (the part where you want it floated).
always before I put masking tape around the barrel and then put the wax on it the same as on the metal. But I tried common wax paper wrapped around the barrel where I want it floated. It works great. No sticking of the glasss to it at all.
Lefty

I also use Johnsons paste wax as a release. I put one coat on and that's it. I've bedded a bunch of rifles and the only time I had a problem was when I didn't let the wax set long enough. Put it in the freezer overnight and she popped out the next morning.
Before I put the wax on I like fill all cracks and holes around the trigger and magazine box with plumbers putty or clay. This makes for a nice neat job. Also, before waxing I put 2 layers of masking tape on the bottom, sides, and front of the recoil lug then wax over it. This way I have the clearence I want.

Like Roger and z1r I could not find Johnson's paste wax, so I used a automotive carnuba paste wax, worked great for me, but I would experiment with whatever wax you decide to use.....

Is Johnson's a floor wax?

I've used a Carnauba car wax (can't remember the brand - in a yellow tin) twice now, with good results. It tends to stick in corners/angles, which is nice. I polish on a coat, then apply a light overcoat with a wet sponge -- let it dry without rubbing off. Actions popped out easily.

I now have a bottle of Brownells release agent, which I guess I'll try in the future.

Todd

Brownell's release is messy and requires clean up after using.

Johnsons paste wax or any good grade paste wax with carnuba in it is the best. To get it in all the nooks and cracks apply with a stiff bristle brush, acid brush is my preferance. Apply one coat and buff with paper towell or cloth, then apply second coat and buff.

The reason for buffing is that if you dont you will leave a wax residue on the glass bedding and if you need to glass again to repair any voids or bubbles the second coat will not stick to the first coat. Also like some of the other guys said, buff and leave on the metal for the best rust protection you can get and with out attracting dirt or grit.