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Re: Thread sealant
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Is it necessary, or advisable, to use a thread sealant when mounting a scope? If so, would blue Loctite be acceptable or should I buy the purple Loctite? Also, has anyone used clear nail poish as a thread sealant? My standard procedure when mounting a scope is to lap the rings and torque the screws. I'm just wondering if purple Loctite is really necessary or is this just another marketing ploy. I'll gladly spend the extra money to do the job correctly, I'm just not sure if purple Loctite is needed. Thanks for the comments.


Jim NRA member
 
Posts: 74 | Location: Southwest Pennsylvania | Registered: 30 January 2009Reply With Quote
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I never use either, and there will be a zillion opinions on this, but a lot of the gurus in the military and places like Leupold, say just use a light drop of oil on the threads Eeker, and then tighten appropriately--which is the key IMO

If I was gonna use loctite, I would never use Purple! blue is fine if ya gotta.
 
Posts: 3563 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 02 August 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Fish30114:
I never use either, and there will be a zillion opinions on this, but a lot of the gurus in the military and places like Leupold, say just use a light drop of oil on the threads Eeker, and then tighten appropriately


I know oil seems counter intuitive when you want the screws to stay in place, but that is how almost all important high stress fasteners are held in place. The key to insuring that fasteners don't loosen is to tighten them to the point they stretch a little bit(but not too much). Oil on the threads lessens friction and allows you to attain proper torque.


When an automotive Engine is a assembled there are specific torque specks for the all the different fasteners. If you use a different lubricant than the one specified you have to used different torque specs.


Jason

"You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core."
_______________________

Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt.

Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry
Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure.

-Jason Brown
 
Posts: 6842 | Location: Nome, Alaska(formerly SW Wyoming) | Registered: 22 December 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by JBrown:
quote:
Originally posted by Fish30114:
I never use either, and there will be a zillion opinions on this, but a lot of the gurus in the military and places like Leupold, say just use a light drop of oil on the threads Eeker, and then tighten appropriately


I know oil seems counter intuitive when you want the screws to stay in place, but that is how almost all important high stress fasteners are held in place. The key to insuring that fasteners don't loosen is to tighten them to the point they stretch a little bit(but not too much). Oil on the threads lessens friction and allows you to attain proper torque.


When an automotive Engine is a assembled there are specific torque specks for the all the different fasteners. If you use a different lubricant than the one specified you have to used different torque specs.


agreed- IIRC, tork settings are given for lubricated threads in building/construction/rigging also.
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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The oil is a good idea! You tighten the screw, then give the handle of the screwdriver a pretty good "whack" Now you can pretty easily take another 1/4- 1/2 turn......these insuctions from Maynard Buehler 50 yrs ago.

Do this and the screws will NEVER loosen except on purpose with a good fitting screwdriver blade.

Loctite should be outlawed for scope bases!
 
Posts: 2221 | Location: Tacoma, WA | Registered: 31 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Gentlemen,

Thank you for the feed back. I am quite familiar with bolt torques and rebuilding small engines.

I'll make sure that I keep my Loctite for small engines and use only oil on my scope bases. I feel much relieved knowing the opinions of qualified people. Hopefully some day I'll be able to help someone in need. Thank you.


Jim NRA member
 
Posts: 74 | Location: Southwest Pennsylvania | Registered: 30 January 2009Reply With Quote
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Loctite should be outlawed for scope bases!

absolutely, positively, no doubt, right on, tu2
 
Posts: 13466 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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I agree locktite should not be used on most things. If you are having trouble with screws loosening after the proper torque, I use a little rubber cement. It acts as a little shock absorber and still allows the screw to be removed normally. It has worked for me....Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Loctite should be outlawed for scope bases!


Got it for scope bases, does this also apply to the screws on the rings, do you whack them also?

nilly


Jim

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Posts: 824 | Location: Palmer, Alaska | Registered: 22 October 2008Reply With Quote
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btt
 
Posts: 824 | Location: Palmer, Alaska | Registered: 22 October 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Abob:
quote:
Loctite should be outlawed for scope bases!


Got it for scope bases, does this also apply to the screws on the rings, do you whacking them also?

nilly


Even the guys who advocate thread locker on the bake screws say not to use it on the ring screws, IIRC.

And I would bet Duane does not whack the ring screws. After all, you would have a scope in there!
Eeker


Jason

"You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core."
_______________________

Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt.

Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry
Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure.

-Jason Brown
 
Posts: 6842 | Location: Nome, Alaska(formerly SW Wyoming) | Registered: 22 December 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks


Jim

fur, feathers, & meat in the freezersalute
"Pass it on to your kids"
 
Posts: 824 | Location: Palmer, Alaska | Registered: 22 October 2008Reply With Quote
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No...I do not "seat" the ring screws./..I agree it would probably not be a good idea...but I don't remember advising anyone to do that anyway.

If you alternate torque..just the way you're supposed to mount a wheel to the family sedan. you will soon get a feel of when you've reached "bottom" hard to explain..but when properly done, the ring screws will take substantial torque to loosen...again make sure to alternate a fraction of a turn a time

I don't use loc tite there either.

Every shop needs to have some around, just not to be used as a cure all.
 
Posts: 2221 | Location: Tacoma, WA | Registered: 31 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Duane, no, you didn't advise seating the scope rings


Jim

fur, feathers, & meat in the freezersalute
"Pass it on to your kids"
 
Posts: 824 | Location: Palmer, Alaska | Registered: 22 October 2008Reply With Quote
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The nice thing about the Torx system is that those little fasteners can handle about 60% more torque than traditional Allen head, flat srew driver and phillips screwdrive type fasteners.

Another reason to thank the Scandinavians!


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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