Never did this before.
I have been trying to get this barrel nut off of my Savage 110. I haven't given it a serious effort yet. I stripped down the action and put it in a padded vice. I tried to screw off the barrel nut with the wrench. No dice. So I warmed it up a bit to try to soften the thread locker and tried again. No good.
Tomorrow I will build a proper set of wood blocks to hold and support the action so I can put some real effort into it.
What can I expect?

Had a tight nut on my first barrel swap. Tried blocks but they kept slipping. Finally ordered a barrel vise. The best thing I did was to stand the barrel up and put Kroil oil around the nut a couple of times during a three day period. Put the barrel in the vise, put the wrench on the nut and hit it with a dead blow hammer (not hard) and the nut came loose easily.

Kroil applied. Thanks.
I'll be sure to remember this.

If you haven't been there yet, you might want to try The Brotherhood of the Barrel Nut for Savage related topics, also.

For some reason, Savage doesn't follow their own procedures which say that the barrel nut should be torqued to 35 Ft-Lbs. As every factory nut that I've taken off has taken a hammer to get it off. I think that they "spot torque" them, (pull so hard that you see spots).

A good web for swapping savage barrels is savageshooters.com, plenty of info and the guys there are a great help. Let us know how things are shaping up.

They use a supstance like lok-tite black max. It took 3 weeks using a high heat blower and kroil to loosen the first one And an eight poung sledge on the wrench. The next three were a little easyer. no joke! roger

It's off now.I called the smith I work with, he laughed at me when I told I was having trouble. I took it over to his place. He put the barrel in a clamp, put on an action wrench AND hit the barrel nut wrench with a rubber hammer. Then it came loose. It had been soaking in kroil for about 36 hours.
It looks pretty beefy with the 458 win mag barrel. I have some inletting to do to the stock.