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Happy Holidays to all. Just wondering what the thought is on carving (instead of checkering) a stock for a DGR. I can carve quite nicely, but have never checkered. I was thinking of carving a nice scrolling leaf pattern in bordered panels, where it would normally be checkered -- no hula dancers, etc. The rifle is pretty standard for a heavy, i.e barrel band sling swivel stud, band front sight, short forearm, etc. I just don't want to end up with something silly looking -- but I don't think it would be. What do you think? Thx, [This message has been edited by Todd Getzen (edited 12-26-2001).] | ||
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Saw some of these in Germany. The oak leaf stuff looked pretty good, I thought. I didn't care for the stocks that were completely covered with all the little critters of the forest though.IMHO, it was kind of tacky. - Dan | |||
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Todd, yuck!! Seriously when it is well done it can look very good. I prefer it as a border to checkering, but I can only do the latter. I like the simplicity of checkering. The carving on the butt of a stock leaves me cold, messes up all the nice grain, if there is any. | |||
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Chic, Let me ask, then: if I'm ok with carving and other forms of precision woodworking, do you think I could do this as my first checkering job, and have it look somewhat decent? It was with great reluctance that I farmed out some of the metalwork on this gun, I really want to do all the stockwork myself. I started with a Richards old classic, and have thoroughly re-worked the cheekpiece into an egg-shape with double shadow lines, and put on a snakewood (!) forend cap; it's looking decent so far. Now I'm wishing I'd started with a better grade of wood... Todd [This message has been edited by Todd Getzen (edited 12-27-2001).] | |||
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Todd: Carving is not a widespread American taste in gunstocks, but if it is your taste, go for it. After all, it is your gun, do what you want. As far as functionality, I believe carving would be superior to all but the coarsest checkering for gripping purposes. Which, after all, is the primary reason for checking/carving to begin with. I think well done oak leaves and acorns look great, but I will be the first to admit that my tastes are not the norm. How about a hula girl? LOL | |||
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Gatogordo, I was thinking the same thing re: functionality -- even detailed, low relief carving would add a lot more "traction" than most checkering. Drooling over some Huglu shotguns (www.huglushotguns.com), I came across some nice engraving -- the action engraving on the SXS on the home page is somewhat like I was thinking - except more density and less detail. Todd | |||
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If you can carve wood well, I think you have the groundwork to be a decent checkerer. It's basically sawing straight lines with a little file and not rocking it side to side- I find the layout more difficult to get right. Just don't start out with too fine a line i.e. 24 lpi+ By the way, how tough was it to modify the old classic into an egg shaped cheekpiece? I plan on doing the identical thing... Any tips? | |||
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Todd, it sounds nice. I think you can do a good job with this project. I do think you will want to practice on something else first. I have never seen a first attempt at checkering that looked very good. It will look good to you at first but there are a lot of things that just have to be learned by trial and error, often error. I have been promising some folks at HA a seminar on checkering and can post it here if there is interest. It is not difficult but from your description you will want to cut some lines on some other pieces of wood first. The stock sounds very nice and if you like the carving I think you ought to go for it. You can leave a curved border inside to checker. I have seen some of these that look very nice and they usually have some very subtle carving. We took a new member into the American Custom Gunmakers Guild whose specialty was carving and checkering. If I can find his name and address I will get it to you. Most of these people are more than happy to assist others. | |||
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Customstox: I would love to see your seminar on checkering, please post it when you get it finished. I am a star graduate of wood butchery 101. PS Todd, IMO when it comes to carving, less is more. In other words, don't carve it to death, as Customstox said, leaving an area in the middle, with carved border for checkering would look nice and make the checkering fairly easy. [This message has been edited by Gatogordo (edited 12-27-2001).] | |||
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I would be very interested in a checkering seminar / how-to online. As for practice, I have several old military stocks that for one reason or another are junked. I will practice with one. I like the idea of carving and checkering. I've never seen it though -- I will start looking through some of the Turpin custom books at Borders. Todd | |||
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DeBee, As far as altering the cheekpiece: I drew out what shape I wanted , then used an 1/8" round carving burr in a dremel to make a shallow "trench" that defined the upper edge of the egg. Don't go too deep, as there is less wood to remove at the front of the current cheekpiece than you might think; then, I worked back from the front of the original cheekpiece, scooping out with narrow chisels and a small gouge. Check symmetry in this region often, with the other side, to make sure you don't remove too much. The old classic style has a little bit of extra wood all over, if you're the kind who likes slim stocks like me; so if you do slip up, you could always thin the opposite side a little to match. I have found some fairly unconventional woodworking tools to be useful -- a double cut bastard file, fine 3 corner file, almost all of the files from my Nicholson hobby file set. Box cutter style razor blades make nifty scrapers for tight spots. A picture is worth a thousand words -- I will try to post some pics that show the changes -- I still do "analog" pics, so it might be a few days. Best, | |||
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I'd transfer or draw the pattern on the stock before carving anything to ensure you like it. Another option to consider is stippling (used on some Anschutz target rifles). Its much easier than checkering, provides an excellent gripping surface and looks pretty decent if its done well. It looks much better with a carved border or as a background to relief carving. I don't have any experience at stippling, so hopefuly someone else here can expound on it. - John | |||
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Todd, I think that a checkering would be the best solution for your rifle, IMHO. Checkering isn�t awfully difficult but you need some practise and a lot time. Get a checkering set, 20 lpi would be good, and take one of your old used military stocks. Then just go ahead and find out how to work by trial and error. After some hour you have learned a lot, and you will do a beautiful job! Good luck, Fritz | |||
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I've always liked the looks of the Weatherby LaserMark rifle. Use that as a basis to do it. ~~~Suluuq | |||
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Todd: I just thought of the Olympia grade Browning rifles, duh, I was carrying one on my 4 wheeler hog hunting, and they have a nice misture of border carving and checkering. If you can find a picture of one, or better yet, a real one, see how you like that look. | |||
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