I have a mohawk 600 in 243. I am trying to get the bolt apart. Got the body separated from the firing pin assembly. I cannot get the pin out of the cocking piece to remove the firing pin and spring. I would like to give it a good cleaning and there are some nasty marks on the firing pin I want to polish.

So since I cannot get it apart and do not have the setup to drill the pin out or gunsmith near me that I will let touch a gun, I am thinking of replacing the assembly.

Pacific Tool and Gage lists a firing pin assembly for the XP100. I would assume that this will fit the 600 as the used the same action. Can anyone confirm this. Thanks.

I would think they are the same. Might even be such a thing as the Model 7 fitting up also.

Never thought of the model 7. Got one of those to take apart and compare.

Model 7 looks real close as far as the firing pin and cocking piece. But the shroud is way different. The assembly goes in to the 600 bolt no problem. The 600 assemble will go into the model 7 bolt. No fired 243 cases to play with. But in the model 7 the 600 assemble hits very light. Put some tape over primers of fired cases and the firing pin barely breaks the tape. So I am thinking the 7 assemble in the 600 will be hitting with too much force and firing pin protrusion.

So it's back to original question. I don't have an original XP 100 to compare too, my XP 100 is the model 7 action.

Pull the bullet and try the model 7 on an empty primed case. I think it will make you smile!

Mike,
Make a simple tool to remove the pin out of the cocking piece. Cut a 3/8 inch dia. steel bar about 9/16 inch long. Next drill out the center with a 1/4 inch bit. With the firing pin assembly removed from the bolt body drop the tool down into the bolt body. Replace the firing pin assembly and screw it down enough to clear the pin in the bolt shroud. Place the cocking piece in a vise and hold tight so it can't slip. Use a starter punch that fits the pin and drive it out with a punch that will fit the hole. Some times these pins are tight to move. Unscrew the bolt shroud from the bolt to clean up. Be careful with the firing pin as it will be under pressure. Assemble in the reverse order as above. A simple job with a simple tool or you can buy the one from Brownell's for several dollars.

My 600 and 660 don't have a pin in the cocking piece or the schroud. Am I missing something?

My buddy made this one for me, modeled on one that was posted here. maybe Doug H.

It's alum. for a M700

Once you remove the firing pin from the bolt body you need to compress the firing pin spring. When you do this the cocking piece will protrude further than usual from the bolt shroud. Only then can you see the pin that holds the coking piece to the firing pin.

You can use the method Les describes or there are special tools you can buy. I have one of the tools. The tool is a hollow tube that is threaded in each end you screw the firing pin assemble in one. In the other end you have a threaded plunger with a tee handle that pushes on the firing pin as you turn it. As you tighten the plunger the spring is compressed and the coking piece is pushed out past the shroud.

Normal disassembly of the bolt will not reveal the pin holding the cocking piece.

My problem is not the access to the pin. I can get at the tool gives me plenty to clamp it securely in the vice. The damn pin will not move. I am thinking it is corroded or deformed. Let it sit with oil and a lot of nasty gunk oozed out. Also one end of the pin definitely took a serious beating when it was assembled.

I have tried everything I can think broke a few punches ans swore a whole bunch. Pin needs to be drilled out. I don't trust my skills with a cheap bench top drill press and some jury rigged clamp. As for gunsmiths around me I would pay them to not work on my guns. So I figure for around 50 bucks I would be ahead to just go with the PTG assembly for the XP100. I got an email in to them but thought I would ask around for other experiences as well.

Use a starter punch made like a nail punch. I have removed several and never broke a punch. The pin is upset on one side so it will stay tight in place. Determine which way to drive it out.

I have broke a starter punch as well. One side of the pin is just below flush and not deformed.That is the side I am pounding on the pin being slightly below flush helps keep the punch in place. The pin just won't budge.

quote:

Originally posted by mike7mm08:
I have broke a starter punch as well. One side of the pin is just below flush and not deformed.That is the side I am pounding on the pin being slightly below flush helps keep the punch in place. The pin just won't budge.

Drill it out!

PT&G's bolts do not come with the bolt handle. Remember that when you are pricing out your job.

quote:

Originally posted by mike7mm08:
I have broke a starter punch as well. One side of the pin is just below flush and not deformed.That is the side I am pounding on the pin being slightly below flush helps keep the punch in place. The pin just won't budge.

Are you keeping a bench block under the cocking oiece when you try to drive out the pin? Might want to give it a bath in Kroil oil for a few hours before you try driving it out again. Then again you might try driving it out the other direction. Are you using a soliod bench block anc bottoming out on the bench block driving it from the recessed side with the pin already as far as it is allowed by bottoming on the bench block?

Tried kroil for a couple days as well as brownells penetrating oil. Tried on a bench block. Rested the bolt in the v of the block so clearance for the pin. Also tried just clamping in a vice and pounding. Tried from both sides to break it loose. It ain't moving. Only thing I have not tried is extreme heat. But I don't want to chance messing up the hardness of the cocking piece.

All that is left is like Kobe said, drill it out!

Try putting it in a freezer over night, then give it a go....

quote:

Originally posted:
PT&G's bolts do not come with the bolt handle. Remember that when you are pricing out your job.

Look here:

http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.../remington.htm#bolts


When you get there, click on the button that says "buy here" under the title and picture for "one piece bolts" (you may have to scroll toward the right edge of the screen to find it). Their one piece bolts have integral handles.

They have different parts of the website for looking at the bolt faces and fluting patterns which one can also get.

If their site is still down for maintenance, you'll have to go to their old site, but they give the URL to do that.

I don't meed the bolt handle or body the issue was wit the firing pin assembly. I got pissed at it today and got a real big hammer and some new punches and got the pin out. Still would like to replace things eventually, but I can at least clean up the firing pin for now. Hopefully I will here from PTG if the XP100 assembly will work.