With any big bore its said its best to have a straight grain in the stock for strength ,rather than a well figured stock which will have more of a tendency to crack or break from recoil .If being a single shot and having a Through Bolt [attaching stock to action]increase the strength to alleviate this problem ? meaning you can have a more figured stock [nicer ] ? rather than just a plain straight grained stock . Im just about to buy a blank ,but i want something nicer, not plain but dont want to end up with a cracked stock in future
Thanks for any comments advice
Cheers

You can have figure in the rear of the buttstock, but you want straight-grained wood, perfectly oriented, through the wrist, IMO.

Clarence

The forces of recoil still apply no matter which attachment method you choose. Good grain flow in the wrist and head are imperative. I repair way too many stocks due to this very reason. A draw bolt usually depends on a three point beading system. The two sides against the receiver and the back strap of the action between top and bottom tang. While easier to inlet, that area if not fitted well can break due to wood flex under recoil. Bad grain flow in this area can(not will) be subject to breaking under recoil. It matters not the maker of a gun, I have fixed a lot of stocks over the years to come to this conclusion.

tankhunter: If you want an outsiders (non-professional) opinion on a well figured stock in the wrist area, it seems to me that drilling a hole in the stock to make access for a through-bolt might only weaken the wood even more. I'd like to hear what the pros say about improving strength via either a epoxy bedded steel sleeve and a tight fitting bolt or if no through-bolt is used a epoxy bedded threaded rod alone to strengthen the wrist area.

As Dennis and others have said, you really don't want curly grain in the wrist or straight grain running across the wrist of the butt stock. It will be too prone to breaking through the wrist. Stocks laid out like that have been known to break in transit. True a thru-bolt will keep the wood in compression (if properly bedded and torqued), but I would not bet that it will not break.

I agree. Why mess with it....spend the extra money.. and like Dennis pointed out, don't overlook around the action. I've seen several fail and they weren't even magnum loads.

Dennis Earl Smith nailed it down perfectly..

I have seen some beautiful custom stocks by some well known gun makers split and crack on big bore guns..I, personally stay away from marble cake and the real fancy stuff for my personal guns, contrast is Ok but properly cured and dryed wood properly laid out is what I use.

Many gunsmiths that make wonderful 270 and 30-06s class rifles, get in trouble with the really big bores, sometimes it takes awhile for a big bore to beat out a perhaps even a perfectly inletted stock, but when it gets a gap pounded out, then it gets a run at the wood and ruins a otherwise perfect Safari..BTW, I always take glass and surgical tubing on Safari, its good insurance, and have had to repair split guns for folks, fortunately mostly factory stuff.

You have Roger Vardy in your country that KNOWS WOOD!! Roger will work with you. He has a tremendous supply of dry and cured wood.

To answer the question about re-enforcement. Years ago Browning used aluminum tubing in the stock bolt area to both strengthen poor grain flow AND provide a solid bedding point for recoil. It is very hard to crush a cylinder via over tightening the bolt. The stock design leaves very little room to put rods fom the head to the grip area. A tight stock bolt hole is a receipt for difficulties....ever tried to undo one that the stock has swollen upon due to moisture absorbtion? Been there/ Done that....Not a good experience. The last time I had to epoxy a socket onto the bolt to finally remove it from the action. That was not fun.

To fix broken Brownings, Perazzi, Gamba, etc boxlock gunstocks that is exactly what I have learned to do. I have found one is able to drill from the head into the grip area in order to insert a threaded rod to repair a broken ear on a gunstock. It is not foolproof. Ever stock is unique and must be judged on it's own. There are times a new stock is the best fix.

Thank you Mr. Smith for clarifying a few things and sharing your expertise.
CB

Thankyou all for the interesting info and comments ,i have been in contact with Roger Vardy and he recommended some blanks for me trying to make up my mind .
I just wonder about those English Double rifles and single shot rifles, 500 and up 600 ,700 NE that have amazingly figured wood etc and whether they never get shot enough to break ,or are just collectors pieces ?

As butchlambert pointed out, Roger Vardy knows wood and he's right in your back yard. I'd imagine he'd be happy to share his knowledge about heavy calibers and figured wood as well as other experts on here.

Get a properly cured and dried straight grained piece of walnut from Roger Vardy. Grain should run from the grip to the butt IMO.
End grain is very strong and tough and when properly bedded and sealed you shouldn't experience any problems and have a stock that will probably last several life times if taken care of.

If one wants color and marble cake then that works best on a small bore and keep it behind the grip area IMO.

Just my two bits but I view fancy wood, marble cake in the same light as I do a nickel plated .32 or gold plated H&R Saturday night pistols.

That said,I don't mind contrasting straigt black grain with a somewhat lighter matrix. just don't like curly haired wood, dogs or wimmen! .
\