What is the basic procedure of barrel sleeving.Is sleeve inserted from chamber or from muzzle? How come sleeve remain rigid and fixed in the barrel during repeated firing.And finally how does barrel heatup effects sleeves...
Thanks for info...

I'm assuming you are speaking of the installation of a barrel liner or in other words relining a barrel.
I like to drill from the breech end and insert the liner from that end. I leave a very thin step at the muzzle so that the liner isn't readily visible. I have soldered liners in place but now use epoxy. Ther are some Loctite products which apparently work well but I have not tried them. Regards, Bill.

Bill,

How do you get the epoxy into the bored out barrel? It seems the epoxy method could be very messy.

Thanks,
Todd E

Todd,
Messy? You bet! I swab it into the bore with an old cleaning brush then smear it on the liner and try to catch the excess before it drips on my shoe. I'm usually not successful in this. I plug the end of the liner so it doesn't get epoxy inside. Regards, Bill.

The one plus for using solder is if you leave a few inches sticking out of the muzzle and you mess up on the chambering you can reheat and push the liner farther back and try again. Once the chamber is right then cut and crown muzzle.

I have a Winchester Model 70 LA controlled feed in 7mm STW. Factory chamber produces fired brass with a .0025" bump on one side near the belt. Customer cannot neck size but must FL rezize each time.

What's the downside of boring this chamber out to .700 and epoxying in a .700 plug; then rechambering that?

Wally

The real downside is that any pressure is transferred through to the original barrel. This will compress the epoxy bond and posibly break it down over time.
I have bored out a chamber and then heated the barrel and done a shrink fit onto a bushing then chambered that and it worked out OK. This was my own rifle and I don't know that I would do this for a customer.
In a chamber that has some pitting or a serious toolmark or divot near the base it is possible to simply fill the flaw in with soft solder. Since it is captive in the pit the solder is not compressible. Just solder then ream by hand to level everything out. Works surprisingly well. Regards, Bill

wallyw

Might be easier and better to set the bbl. back one thread and rechamber. This should remove the bad spot. Will also have to recut extractor groove if there & back of bbl. etc.