I have a Browning BSS (Browing Side by Side) shotgun that has both of the receiver pins drift out an annoying amount while shooting. I haven’t had them fall on the ground, but they drift enough that they’re in my way while shooting and I’m concerned if not caught they could drift far enough that things will become mis-aligned.

I’ve tried blue loctite and even the dreaded red loctite. They still drift while shooting.

Is it ever acceptable to peen the pin ends a bit so they don’t drift out as easily? Or can a person do a little center punch upset from the side of the pin and then drift it back into position where the upset would keep it from drifting so easily? (Maybe these methods are too crude or permanent.)

If there is a standard agreed upon practice by smiths that know what they’re doing I’d sure like to hear it.

Thanks,
Kyler

I wouldn't peen the ends.

I would take a center punch to each side of the pin.

Where the pin touches the receiver.

Making slight dimples.

That should raise enough material to tighten them up.

Slow and easy.

Solution from a gun plumber and not a gun smith.

There could very well be a better way.

A ball bearing of appropriate size over each hole w/ pin slightly below flush & tap ball bearing w/ a ball peen hammer will reduce the hole diameter.

A prick punch in the hole or end of the pin is a disaster waiting to happen.

OR
Pull the pin(s) & knurl one end & re-install.

A somewhat hack way, but effective to tightem them is to lay the pin down in a vee notch to keep it from rolling, and use a sharp cold chisel to cut several longitudanal grooves in the pin. This will raise small shoulders on the sides of the cut, making the effective diameter larger. Poor mans knurling. More surface area than a pin punch divot.

quote:

Originally posted by ssdave:
A somewhat hack way, but effective to tightem them is to lay the pin down in a vee notch to keep it from rolling, and use a sharp cold chisel to cut several longitudanal grooves in the pin. This will raise small shoulders on the sides of the cut, making the effective diameter larger. Poor mans knurling. More surface area than a pin punch divot.

This is a good way and some pins are factory done this way. Depending on how thick the walls are that the pins go through, keeping knurling or grooving back from the end of the pin slightly maintains the 'finish' of the end of the pin.

I'm not a pro, but am surprised the red Loctite didn't hold after a good degreasing of the pin and holes. Looking at a schematic, there is a lot of metal there to grip onto.
Hope you find the cure.

My smith some years ago made me a ss ball stuck on a peice of weld rod..you place in over the hole and give it a tap or wack, whichever it needs and the fix is in and done..It has had many uses as a matter of fact, easy to make, and you can make a set of different sizes as he did..It won't even show on a fine blued surface...

I found loctite or glass needs a rough surface or cuts in hard smooth surfaces, even on wood..something it can get a bite on..

Aren't there grooves in the pins that catch on the shell stops?

I believe they are smooth. You are thinking of a pump or semi-auto. These pins are interference fit.

quote:

Originally posted by Shooter1962:
Aren't there grooves in the pins that catch on the shell stops?