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I have this Remington 141 in the shop for scope mounting. The Weaver catalog calls for a number 27 Front base and a number 20A Rear base. The photo below shows those two bases in position on top of the receiver. I sure looks to me like the Front base is way taller than the rear base. Am I missing something? Can anyone suggest any other mounting options? Am I correct to position the front base on top of the "hump" on the receiver? Bill Jacobs Rem141 by jakefromclemson, on Flickr NRA Endowment Member US Army Veteran CWP Holder Gunsmith | ||
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One of Us |
I love the 141s; had many and still have two. First center fire rifle I ever fired. I highly advise against drilling holes in one; that reduces the value by 50%. The owner needs to know this fact. The reason your front one (recommended by Weaver) is so high is because it is supposed to be mounted on the barrel, another very strange and to me, bad idea. More 1940s era thinking. I guess if you insist on it; you have the wrong bases. Obviously they need to be parallel to the bore. Do not drill into the locking shoulder in the receiver and drilling into the barrel threads is doing it the hard way. I have seen them drilled all over the receiver however. Just get a piece of Weaver/Pinctinny base stock and put 3 holes in it. I am cringing now, though. I admit I have never drilled one; it's sacrilege. | |||
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Drilling them surely multiplies the value by at least .5 If your customer is interested, I have an original Lyman or Marbles receiver sight that mounts to the existing holes in the tang. | |||
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I have explained to the customer the loss of value that comes with drilling and tapping the gun. He can't see iron sights, does not plan to ever sell the gun, and does not want a peep sight. NRA Endowment Member US Army Veteran CWP Holder Gunsmith | |||
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In that case, I explained to you where the front base goes. | |||
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Any way to fashion a LER mount using the rear sight dovetail as a Picatinny base support? Then use a 1 inch scope ring upside down and attached to the underside to grip the bbl. | |||
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One of Us |
That could certainly be made, but I read that the owner doesn't care. | |||
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So I will ask because I have never tried this. With the adhesives available today could a person contour a base to fit the receiver behind the hump and glue it on? I have used adhesives to hold sights in place for drilling but have never tried just using the adhesive and seeing how long it would hold. Low recoil and a light scope might hold? C.G.B. | |||
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Thanks for the suggestions. I really don't like the idea of the front base on the barrel, primarily because the barrel is tapered in front of the receiver, and I will be building in ring misalignment from the get-go. I think I will look for a piece of lightweight picatinny rail to see if I can get enough of it on the straight portion of the receiver to mount a pair of rings. It would save a great deal of effort if I can find a base that comes close to the rounded contour of the top of the Remington rifle. Alternately, I guess I could cantilever the front ring over the hump by using a somewhat thicker section of rail cut away on the bottom. Bill NRA Endowment Member US Army Veteran CWP Holder Gunsmith | |||
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One of Us |
You can try using the old Williams mounts like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/38389...0&ufes_redirect=true It's not too difficult to find rings for them. They look like these: https://www.vintagegunscopes.c...?rq=williams%20rings https://www.vintagegunscopes.c...?rq=williams%20rings . | |||
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One of Us |
Weaver back in the day used to have a pictoral instruction sheet for the instal of the mounts on the 14 and 141. The base #'s are correct. The front base does go onto the bbl and it is placed some distance forward of the frame. Not right up against it. The rear base was shown and stated to be mounted 'in the middle' of the top of the frame. So as not to drill into the locking shoulder of the frame. | |||
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I think you have the bases backwards. Turn them around (front to back) and have another look. "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading". | |||
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No; he has the correct bases and they aren't tapered. Turning them around won't change anything. The tall front one goes on the barrel and the rear one goes on the receiver. Just because the barrel is tapered; Weaver didn't care; once you tighten everything up, it will be fine. Except for the drilling holes in it part, but that ship has sailed. As they say. And for the question, will glue work; the answer is, no. | |||
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One of Us |
I think this is an example of reversing the bases. https://www.gunsinternational....cfm?gun_id=101856286 Jim | |||
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One of Us |
My first deer rifle I had when still at school was a Model 14 32 Remington and it had a scope mounted on it. My father did a lot of gunsmithing back in the day but not sure if it came with scope mounted or he mounted it. From a somewhat blurry photo taken from a 35mm colour slide, and it appears from the positioning of the rings that the front base is mounted on the receiver 'ring' and the rear base well to the rear of the action. Back then most of the rings and bases used were Parker Hale of which you could obtain the necessary bases, both steel and aluminium, for mounting scopes on a good range of American rifles. I shot a lot of animals with that 32 Remington and don't recall ever having to shoot the scope in after setting it for the Dominion ammo I used. | |||
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A bit off topic----SORRY! But is it true a pointed bullet could be used in the spiral magazine tube of the Rem. M141 safely? Not than it would be necessary/needed/or a good idea but JUST CURIOUS! Hip | |||
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Yes. I routinely use pointy bullets in mine. The spiral mag allows for that. | |||
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THANKS! Tom | |||
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However way you do it, use a good epoxy glue on the base or bases, this will give added support to the screws, take up any discrepancy in the base contours and prevent moisture getting under the bases and potentially rusting/pitting the top of the receiver. Over my 60 odd years of firearm use I have and still use epoxy glue on each and every base mounting I have ever done and have never had any issues with loose bases or screws. I know many are against the thought of using an epoxy glue in conjunction with screws, but IMO it is an absolute no brainer not to do so. | |||
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A Remington 760 or Browning BAR base have radiuses close.
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Ive seen several that did not have the front base riding on the hump, so I thought they were all mounted behind the hump?? Im thinking I would prefer that..??? Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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Yes, I've seen them that way too; you can't use the recommended Weaver front base though. Use two the same height. The locking recess is right behind the hump, and it is very thin there. Still guys did it. I'd just use a one piece base and three screws. One for 742/760 will work. | |||
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one of us |
Per Bobster's suggestion, I got a base for a BAR. The radius is very close. I milled 1/16 off the base for about 2" of the front of the mount. That will clear the "hump." I can use only one of the predrilled holes, so I will need to drill and counterbore two more In the thicker parts of the receiver. There is about 1/8" of meat in those spots, so I should be OK. I'm not a big fan of the procedure, but I think I will make an epoxy pad under the base to take up the space where the radii are just barely unequal. Bill Jacobs Model 141 Rail 4 by jakefromclemson, on Flickr Model 141 Rail 2 by jakefromclemson, on Flickr Model 141 Rail 1 by jakefromclemson, on Flickr NRA Endowment Member US Army Veteran CWP Holder Gunsmith | |||
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Perfect | |||
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Last post -- Coming up with the finished product! Drill and counterbore the rail: Rail Mod 1 by jakefromclemson, on Flickr Drill and Tap the receiver (Using the rail as a template): Rail Mod 3 by jakefromclemson, on Flickr Mount the rail: Rail Mod 4 by jakefromclemson, on Flickr Rail Mod 5 by jakefromclemson, on Flickr NRA Endowment Member US Army Veteran CWP Holder Gunsmith | |||
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I need a scope but couldn't bring myself to mount one on my .35, M14... So I bought another gun. | |||
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new member |
It's pointless to argue with these people. One of the oldtime gunsmiths here would refuse the job. My 141 has a Jaeger side mount and German scope by the original owner. A drilled hole is a drilled hole regardless. I've seen this dance with a Remington 720 and an owner who wanted to chrome plate an authentic Confederate 36 caliber revolver. It's desecration that cannot be undone. | |||
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Clemson, if you set the rail up on end, you can use a boring bar and match front the radius. It just looks nicer. Get Close and Wack'em Hard | |||
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I would set my adjustments in the center of the focal plane..turn the adjustments to the end then move them back half way, then everything is center to the world..Now install the bases and place the scope in the half ring and bore sight or install the top ring and shoot to sight in, if all is correct then the bore and cross hairs will be close enough that two or three clicks will complete a sight in and your scope is close to the center of it focal plane, and thats a good thing..works with centered cross hairs or with the old scopes of yesteryear with a shim here and there... Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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