Hi all. Haven't posted in a while. Could not log in for months until one day I could. No changes, just no posting allowed. Anyway, I owe Fal Grunt a note and will proceed with that soon.
My question is, when bedding recoil lugs on a Mauser-actioned heavy hitter do they need bedding at separate times? Both are perpendicular to the bore, one on the rear sight ring and the standard front ring integral. It seems I read that they needed bedding separately. Help, and thanks.

Stephen

Some say to bed them separately so the metal will be easier to remove from the wood. I usually bed them separately, and use Johnson's paste wax for release agent. No reason you could not bed them together though.

I've never had a problem bedding them together, but I always put a layer of tape on the front to give a little "wiggle" room.

Yes, do that. it makes it easier to remove.

Never saw a rifle with two recoil lugs. If I were to do it I'd tape the front, side's and the bottom of the lugs. Only the back rides on the bedding compound. Johnson's past wax is very good release agent. I read where someone is using Hornady one shot. I'll let someone else try it first.

quote:

Originally posted by Don Fischer:
Never saw a rifle with two recoil lugs. If I were to do it I'd tape the front, side's and the bottom of the lugs. Only the back rides on the bedding compound. Johnson's past wax is very good release agent. I read where someone is using Hornady one shot. I'll let someone else try it first.

Don,

This rifle has a Recknagel rear sight ring base with a integral recoil lug. I turned a cylinder on the barrel just in front of the chamber and will sweat the ring base to the barrel once all is timed correctly. I believe a few factory rifles in larger smacking calibers come with a secondary barrel mounted lug. Not sure which, though. I like your and all other's recommendations. The 10 mil plumbers tape should work well for the wiggle room factor, eh? What say you on that? I happen to have a roll. Am just enough of a plumber to know pipe penetrations through concrete or masonry walls or floors require the tape or a sleeve.
Sorry for the digression.

Luck,
Stephen

Any tape will work. I want the bottom to bottom out solidly so do not put tape on the bottom, and I don't on the sides either. Only the front is enough, for me. As for two recoil lugs, I always install two lugs on anything 375 and above. Seen too many walnut stocks with compressed recoil lug areas. Even with glass bedding. I have installed steel insert too, but you are still dealing with wood. Many factory rifles have two lugs in hard recoiling calibers.

I always use it; I can't guarantee all wood to last 100 years without compressing. I am also suspect of trying to make the rear cheeks of a Mauser take recoil; that is like forcing the wood apart at a very weak point.

You are entirely correct Duane. Both the front and back of a Mauser box need to be inletted tightly in order to support the wood behind the recoil lug mortice. The best tools that I use for this are a very sharp 3\8 inch chisel to cut the end grain of the wood cleanly and a 1\8 inch chain saw file about 5\8 inch wide to smooth the surfaces perfectly smooth and flat. (note that rocking the box during insertion or removal of the box will result in false marking and go slowly and only remove that wood that shows a compression shine.) For the radii of the box corners I use the Royal Arms stock inletting chisels (right & left hand) that remove a nice little curl of wood from that area. The sides of the box need to be as close as possible without wedging the sides of the stock outward. Duane, few realise just how much support and recoil absorption area the "kidney area of a Mauser stock provides. Thank you for pointing that out. As far as the action and barrel recoil lugs I use very sharp 1|2 & 1\4 inch chisels and only remove wood slowly from those areas that show the shiny compression mark transfers of the inletting black. Again beware of false markings from rocking the barreled action. For final fitting I ground the sides and squared the end of a Fisher scraper to about 1|8 inch wide and use it to judiciously scrape the inletting mortice. Lastly, as Duane said, use only hard and dense blanks with proper grain flow for the Big Boomers.

No gauntlets will ever be thrown from here. I will simply share what I've learned from 37 years of building, studying and annalizing gunstocks.....Dave

Yet another collection of "wisdom pearls" to copy, back up on the mirrored hard drive, print and put in a document protector, in a notebook in a safe.

Humbly

L/D

I don't know a lot about stock making but I think this http://echolsrifles.blogspot.s...-say-it-aint-so.html looks really interesting. Art and sciense put together, bomb proof. The best of both worlds?