I will not bore you by reposting my previous inquiries.
But I have a question before I start on the repairs.

My cz 550 mag has a crack running length wise from the magazine well to the f-block (second time same place, fixed by gunsmith and bedded, split near same place - bedding split as well).
I assume that that the cracks are from a weakness at the main recoil lug just in front of the chamber???
I will outline what I am going to do to the gun, if you have further suggestions I would love to have them. Keep in mind that I am a virgin, an informed one, but still a virgin.

1. Before I remove the old bedding and work on the crack, I am putting an internal cross support in the area between the trigger and the magazine. (this will be a separate step from the front half of the weapon)

2. After fixing the crack, I am going to remove the factory plate, ream out the area behind the main lug and put in a internal cross support. (threaded bar)

3. I am putting another internal cross support
to support the area behind the front and rear legs of the f- bar.

4. I am going to put in some L- shaped supports around the magazine.

5. With a slightly thinner threaded bar I am putting two length-wise internal supports running from the main recoil lug, at about 4 o'clock and 7 o'clock (left and right of the f-block) to about 2" from the fore-end of the stock.

7. Of course, bed the entire thing from the chamber to the Fore-end of the stock.

Does this sound about right?

OK, I'll take the silence to mean I'm on the right track....wish me luck.

Using Brownells Acraglas, the liquid kind, i drill holes into the cracks. 1/8" to 3/16" in dia. If you can drill the whole length of the crack this is better yet. This is a blind hole, u may have to work the acraglas into the hole with a tooth pick as air is trapped inside. Do not add the flaked fiberglass to the mix. Only add the flaked fiber glass when u bed the recoil lug. The Acraglas will soak in to the wood some , not just filling the bore holes. This seems to work better then adding metal pins. Drilling the holes gives the Acraglas a new surface to grip onto, free of oils, and old compounds. You may have to do one hole at a time, as the Acraglas must run down into the hole.

Man, these are some good ideas.....
By the way, I started on my stock yesterday at about 530PM. I was going to reinforce the stock between the trigger and the Magazine. When I took a good look at it I found it was already cracked. I was able to rout out the crack, cut a trench around the left rear of the magazine well and through the area where the crack had been to the other(right)side and a L-shaped steel supporting bar in, get everything bedded by 1015pm and set up over night. It was a little tight coming apart but everything looks good so far........I really sweated bedding that area. First time doing this type of work and a lot of acraglass around/near the trigger mechanism. But I think the job was a good one. I just hope the glass can take the recoil.

Next step-removing the old barrel bedding and fixing the crack there. I'll start that tonight.

Thanks for the info.......

Oh yeah,
when I bed the barrel I know to put the clay in the sliding nut rails to keep out glass. I want to bed this area and beyond. anyone know a trick to keeping the glass out of the nut itself so I can tighten down the screw without problems......Vaseline????????

Thanks..

.44, If you would rather replace the stock I have just the ticket. I have a brand new CZ550 walnut stock in pristine condition from a 416 REM. Mag. It is beautiful and the price is right. $75.00 will ship it.

I did it.
Thanks to all who provided advice.
I managed to get it routed out, braced and rebedded. The take down was tight but it came apart and looks good.
I can say that grinding out the Old steel mix bedding and freeing the f-block from it really, really sucked.(wore out two bits)
I tried to do too much at one sitting, became complacent and lost my grip on the dremmell at 30,000 rpm's with a saw blade attachment.......managed to jerk my hand out of the way with only a slightly grooved palm but my shin wasn't so lucky. The saw took on a life of its on and decided to bounce of my leg on the way down (to the bone). After letting it bleed in the tub (wife wouldn�t let me bleed on the floor) I pulled the skin together and bandaged it up. Could have used some stitches but there was no way I was going to wait 6 hours in the emergency room on a non life threatening lower extremity wound.
Other than this mishap everything went well. The stock now looks like it can handle anything (of course with my luck it will disintegrate upon ignition)

If it costs me this much flesh to bed a stock I am scared to think what an actual Safari will cost me ���my wife may be right, I may just end up a lion turd.

Again, thanks�

44,
right now, have your wife drive to the drug store and get some "steri-strips".. and while she's gone, shave 3" high and low of the cuts... wash it well with alky, and let it dry..

DO NOT use peroxide on deep cuts... there's a DAMN good reason it burns... it's lysising nerve cells.

the steristrips are what the erooms use these days... faster, cheaper, and you don't have to come back...

oh, yeah, leave 1/4 to 1/2 an inch between the strips... so you can put a new set on, then remove the old ones...

triple antibodic (neosporin) is your friend.


heal fast, keep the leg up...

oh, yeah, if it don't close.. well, they use superglue in england and it's in my firstaide kit, too.. then again, I keep a stitching kit in it, too

jeffe