My 1952 model 70 barrel job is complete, and I am moving on to the next stage of this build. What is done to date is the action is lapped and trued with a Shilen #3 barrel installed. My original floorplate has a big dent, my smith says he can work it out, but I would rather just replace it. I have seen the complete floorplate assemblies from Williams and Sunnyhill. Does someone make just a new all steel floorplate? I looked on Brownells and saw just the new model 70's. Anyway if someone has a link or contact it would be greatly appreciated.

Next question is my trigger, is there any reason to do anything more than adjust my stock trigger? My understanding is these old triggers adjust well, any comments?

And my last question is there has been a couple of threads concerning Turkish stocks from Denli A.S. a lot was talked about, with not much said. Has anyone bought from them, and how good was what you bought?

Try Jim Wisner, he used to make these and still may.

Thanks Kutenay thats what I was looking for. I will give him a call next week.

I saw these a few months ago on Brownells, but now that I am ready to buy one they don't have any listed, or I can't find it when I do a search.

Another question:

I was talking with a friend about bolt handles and he said that someone in Montana was doing three and four panel engraved bolt handles that just need to be welded on. He thought the name was Grimm (?).

Anyone know anything about this?

Try Jerome C. Glimm
19 South Maryland
Conrad, Mt. 406-278-3574

He runs an ad in Rifle Magazine and does engraving also.

Bob

schromf, check out the McFarland checkered bolt handles in Brownells. In my opinion they are better.

Here is a link on adjusting a M70 trigger.

http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/AdjustingWinTrigger.asp

If you want the pull less than three pounds the spring will have to be changed.

I saw those also, what do you like better? I liked the four panel with borders and a flower end on Glimms website.

Better handles? Better metal? Better workmanship?

I could live with the McFarland 4 panel though, just want to know why?

Regarding pre 64 model 70 bolt handles I have a question. The original bolts were forged, so the handle and bolt are all from the same piece of steel. I like the strength of the forged bolt and handle so my question is does one lose anything by cutting off the old and welding on a new one? Can an original handle be heated and shaped to one's liking so you don't have to cut it off?

Prewar70,

Another reason Glimm interested me he also engraved original bolt handles.

I want saw on his website he did it for $140.

They have better workmanship. The diamonds are crisp and uniform.

BTW, if you use checkered bolt knobs, you might consider getting some rubber "finger cots" from a stationary store. They are the little rubber caps for your fingers to be able to turn pages. The checkered bolt knobs act like very good rasps on neighboring gunstocks when putting a gun back in the safe. Slip one of those thingies over the knob and it will be a lot safer in the safe.

Do they have a website? I would like to see about engaving the original first before I loop off the original. I did a search but came up with nothing.

Neat idea on the protection.

I happen to need a model 70 floor plate and trigger guard. I would be interested in buying yours if you decide to go the aftermarket route. The dent doesn't bother me. I have repaired them before. Let me know.

I think "Orewar 70" might have a few parts you might want. Ask him what he wants for the m and then give me a call. I could probably sell them to you at his price. (there is a message here)

Jim

That woud be "Prewar 70"

Despite Mr. Kobe's kind words, I do not have any parts for sale.

"Prewar 70"

I just got off the phone with an old gunsmith friend. We talked about this rifle. After I told him what I was building he suggested I replace the whole bottom metal with either a Blackburn or a Sunnyhill. His reasoning is that I have or am going to have a substantial amount invested and why cheapo out on the bottom metal.

He also said he likes the new bottom metal metal better, as it converts the three hole stock Winchest to a 2 hole. He says these finish up better, and are easier to get good alignment when screwing to the stock.

Any thoughs? I know these are a little on the pricey side but, that isn't my major concern at all, I want this rifle made right, and I will do what it takes to finish it up right.

If you go with the new bottom metal go with one without the integral mag box, one that uses the original one. Ted Blackburn told me a while ago, when designing the bottom metal he found accuracy to be a problem with the integral box and went with the "rail" type instead. I believe Williams makes one that is very nice and also reasonable.

Good luck with the Blackburn. They are currently 5-6 weeks out on M70 bottom metal...

BTW Chic is right. Go with the McFarland bolt. You will be happier with the outcome.

Scrollcutter,

I was hoping you would post, would you comment on the bolt handle. What is the smart way of going about this?

Have a new bolt tig welded on or send off the old bolt to have a four panel engraved on it. I am also plan on having the grip cap and the floor plate engraved with a fairly simple English scroll ( border ) with an intial on the plate, and just border on the cap.

Jim,

I am a patient person on projects, I am already regretting not spending the time to order a Krieger barrel, not a huge mistake but I would have been happier as I wanted a cut rifle barrel, I don't really regret the Shilen but in hindsight it was just a few more weeks. If it takes a few weeks to get the right parts, thats fine. I had forgotten about Williams, I will do some looking.

quote:

I believe Williams makes one that is very nice and also reasonable.

I just looked at these, only about $100 more than the floorplate. Anybody used one of these? I remember looking at one of these on for Remington 700, that I never built as I got sidetracked into a BRNO and this Winchester.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by schromf:
Scrollcutter,

I was hoping you would post, would you comment on the bolt handle. What is the smart way of going about this?

Have a new bolt tig welded on or send off the old bolt to have a four panel engraved on it. I am also plan on having the grip cap and the floor plate engraved with a fairly simple English scroll ( border ) with an intial on the plate, and just border on the cap.[QUOTE]

In my opinion, the very best way to do it, is to get the layout work engraved onto a new bolt handle. Then, have it welded to the bolt and returned to the engraver to finish up the job.

I use a rotary table to do the layout work. Then the panels layouts are just short of perfect. Some people have called me anal for doing the layout work first. I prefer the panels to be layed out around the handle all lined up and equidistant.

Let me know if I can help out with the engraving. ;-)