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Mauser bedding
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My dad had two FN mauser rifles made by Herman Waldron in the late 60's and 70's, one for himself and one for me right after I was born.
I removed the stocks and I noticed that my rifle had a piece of tape on the recoil lug area.
Dad told me that Herman bedded the recoil lug on his rifle totally surrounded by glass and mine was bedded with clearance around at the sides, front and bottom of the recoil lug (so the only contact is at the rear of the lug) and he didn’t recall why. Both had clearance at the rear part of the tang and the ferrule was glassed in.

I've searched around and see different answers. So are both considered the correct way?

thx
 
Posts: 10 | Location: Sac, Ca | Registered: 28 October 2006Reply With Quote
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I've done it , and have seen it done, both ways. IMO, it's six a one, half dozen of the other. The taped version makes it a bit easier to remove the barreled action from the stock. The most important factor is the rear of the recoil lug making full and positive contact with the stock.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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On a Mauser, the bottom of the lug should also be glassed. Who could argue with Hermon Waldron, one of the finest custom gunmakers in the world. It's a shame he is no longer with us. His advice for clearance to the rear tang is good also.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5535 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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How about some photos and details on tne rifles. I'm sure there are lots of guys who want to see examples of Waldron's work.
 
Posts: 55 | Location: TN | Registered: 20 February 2010Reply With Quote
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Dad's 7mag. Believe it was one of the very first guns he built. He was the only gunsmith who ever did any work on it. His final work was a new trigger in 1998. If you do your part it will shoot .5in at 100yrds.
There is a picture of the invoice, wood blank and scope are missing. I think the total was somewhere under $350 when it was all done in '65



 
Posts: 10 | Location: Sac, Ca | Registered: 28 October 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by tonyf3:
My dad had two FN mauser rifles made by Herman Waldron in the late 60's and 70's, one for himself and one for me right after I was born.
I removed the stocks and I noticed that my rifle had a piece of tape on the recoil lug area.
Dad told me that Herman bedded the recoil lug on his rifle totally surrounded by glass and mine was bedded with clearance around at the sides, front and bottom of the recoil lug (so the only contact is at the rear of the lug) and he didn’t recall why. Both had clearance at the rear part of the tang and the ferrule was glassed in.

I've searched around and see different answers. So are both considered the correct way?

thx


I bed the entire front recever ring & 1st 3" of the barrel tight.(the rest of the barrel is free floated) The recoil lug is taped front, sides & bottom W/the rear tight against the bedding.

I use .015" wax sheet on the side rails for clearance W/the bedding W/the rear bridge & tang bedded tight except for the rear of the tang just behind the action screw. The rear action screw runs through a steel tube epoxied into the stock. The ID of the tube is 5/16" to clear the action screw completely.

I load 200gr Nosler Partitions .010" off the lands. W/a miltary take-off barrel un-altered except for a re-contour & crown job, it consistantly shoots groups like this @ 100 yds.



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Posts: 2440 | Location: Northern New York, WAY NORTH | Registered: 04 March 2001Reply With Quote
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