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I had the Weatherby 25-06 out the other day and it started throwing shots all over the paper. Just before I tore out the remainder of my hair, I discovered that the receiver screws were so loose that the receiver/stock had about 1/8" play. I plan to use some blue locktite, push the receiver back and torque the screws. What would be the appropriate torque? | ||
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That would depend on the material of the stock and it's ability to resist being compressed. I would recommend "Snug". Actually, "good and snug".  Just get them tight. Not "strain your eyes" tight, but, "good and tight". _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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You may want to rethink using and type of thread locker on the screws. It should not be necessary at all. Just check the screws once in a while amd make them snug. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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Dear AC Guy: All of the above advice is excellent. Sometimes what I do, especially if I am hunting in the rain, I degrease the receiver and receiver screw threads with brake cleaner. Let them dry, and put a dollup of Permatex silicon on the threads and torque them down. The screws should stay put, and you can unscrew them much more easily than if you used lock tite, which I never use. I silicone seal my scope base and ring screws, too. They don't rust, and you can remove them. Lastly, I would check the action and barrel fit in the stock to see if the action is cocked which would give you a false snug fit with the receiver screws. Also, check to see if the action floats around before screwing it down. Or, if it binds in the stock, you might have a similar problem with a false torque on the screws, because the action is moving around after firing or sinking further into the stock, as the screw tension compresses the action into the stock. Look for shiney spots in the action cut out in the stock. Think of the action like a wedge, that if it doesn't fit correctly, moves further into the stock, which makes the screws loose. Sincerely, Chris Bemis | |||
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The stock is synthetic. I was hoping for a torque value, however "good and snug" sounds about right. I use the blue "thread retaining" compound on anything that can move, but shouldn't. (everything from model airplane engines to frying pan handles) The screws worked loose from NIB over about 200-300 rounds. My philosophy is that I want all variables to remain as constant as possible. I don't want the screws loosing tension over time, or retightening to different values. However, the silicon is an interesting alternative. Thanks. | |||
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Can give you some torque settings folks use in Long Range Match rifles and they are on average as follows: Wood stock, not pillared, approx. 50-55lbs/in. Pillared stocks get a tad more at say 60 and then the synthetic ones with Al. bedding blocks, pillars, etc. some go as much as 65lbs/in. If you touque at these ranges and use the blue stuff, silicon, etc. would not imagine loose action screws would be a persistant problem. Should recheck from time to time to be sure. Most hunters do not carry a torque wrench with them in the field, but if your action screws are allen type, use the short end of the wrench to snug up as much as you can and then take the long end, more leverage, and go approx. 1/4 turn more. Suggest do the front screw first and then the rear. Realize you want to be consistant and at least w/the field method, you at least think you are being consistant and it does work pretty good. | |||
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I always perfer good and snug verus loose when I am screwin...arghh arghhh arghhh is so fun to be 12 Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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If you have to do that, a good glass job is in order. "I ask, sir, what is the Militia? It is the whole people. To disarm the people is the best and most effective way to enslave them" - George Mason, co-author of the Second Amendment during the Virginia convention to ratify the Constitution | |||
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My thanks to all. I got a FAT (screwdriver/torque wrench) from Wheeler eng. Dissembled the action/barrel and wiped down the underside with a little Breakfree Collector, reassembled and retorqued the screws (no locktite). It is now back to shooting like it did in the past. | |||
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Is your rifle pillar bedded? If it is not I suggest getting that done. My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost. | |||
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