Have these sights on a Whitworth 375H&H. By no means are they the original. Looking for some help in their ID.
Edit: Replaced images

Gunsmith made, and well, also.
Stephen

quote:

Originally posted by Lord Frith:
Gunsmith made, and well, also.
Stephen

That's my thought

I can't find a sight; the pictures are humongous and blurry. Probably my apple. Carpet tufts look like mountains or clouds; kind of cool though.

I'll admit that the pics are not the best. I'll see what I can do about getting better (and smaller) pics.

On Imgur you choose; "large thumbnail". Otherwise you get a one over the world scale picture.

Let's try these . . .

And I'll add a question . . .

If these sights are secured to the barrel with silver solder (and possibly screws), and the barrel is finished in a hard-chrome as has been suggested elsewhere, will the hard-chrome handle the necessary heat to soften the silver solder so the sights could be removed?

Unlikely they are on with silver solder. That requires red heat.
I use Force 44 solder, 95% tin and 5% silver. low temp and so do most guys, for sights.
If you remove the sights, for sure there is no chrome under them. You will have a mess.
How much heat will hard chrome handle? Enough to remove the sights unless they are really silver brazed on.
Yes there are silver alloys that melt somewhat lower, but I don't use them; no need.
Good pics now.

For whatever reason I use silver solder as a 'one term covers all'. Hi Force 44 would have been a better way to address the soldering (if used).

It's unlikely that if I remove the sights they will go back on with solder. Probably just screws. I'll leave that up to the local 'smiths judgement. In the end, I really don't want to refinish the gun.

I'd leave the sights on.

Maybe the rear sight stays, but the front is coming off. Wish I could figure out where to get replacement inserts for the front sight. Rear sight looks like it uses an insert similar to some of those offered by NECG.

Gonna shorten the barrel to, 1) get rid of the Magna-Porting, and 2) 20-21" handle better IMHO.

Then get the banded front and two leaf rear from NECG (recknagel); The band slips on and the rear screws on. Problem solved.

How about this insert?

https://www.newenglandcustomgu...detail.php?prod=7647

That's pretty much the plan - NECG sights.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Then get the banded front and two leaf rear from NECG (recknagel); The band slips on and the rear screws on. Problem solved.

With a banded front, you'll have some issues with the recoil slots at the muzzle...Are we sure tha front sight isn't off a Ruger? Recknagel makes some beads for that

He is going to cut the slots off. His FS is not from a Ruger; note the little flip up auxiliary bead.

Nowhere in the verbiage do I read any mention of Loc-tite as a possible adhesive. Front and rear can be secured confidently with 1 screw each and a bit of Loc-tite. Might want to remove the sight inserts and see what's going on below and apply some torch heat and leather mallet taps. A pleasant surprise may await. As others have mentioned, there seem to be few gunsmiths and novice gun wreckers using silver solder. Simply unnecessary to use such high heat in light of all the solder goodies available to us today.
Merely points to consider.
Stephen



loc-tite

NECG ramp, Force 44, bead blast matt blue



With brake. Another NECG ramp on right.



458 Win, Force 44.

Lord Frith - good points.

I did drift the rear sight blade out last night. Forgot to get a photo. There is no screw securing the sight to the barrel. There does however appear to be an 'alignment pin' in the rear sight base. My lighting was poor, but there did appear to be some very fine print on the head of the 'alignment pin'.

As a side note, I spoke with a plater this morning about applying heat to the sights to loosen what I am guessing to be solder (hopefully Hi Force 44, and not true silver solder). He said that heat from a propane torch applied sparingly and on the sight should be enough to loosen the solders hold and should not have any ill affects on the finish. However, if silver solder were used, more heat would be required, and the finish would be 'damaged'. He suggested send the barreled action to him and having the plating removed, then move forward with sight replacement and refinishing. He didn't mention a cost, but I'm giving that some consideration.

EDIT: I spoke to the plater again. Cost to 'de-plate' the barreled action would be approx $100.

WoodHunter,

That's what I'm aiming for - no pun intended.

No gunsmith would glue on sights solely with loc tite. Anyway, it would not have survived the plating process.
Paying $100 for a refinish would be, for me, crazy. Just me of course; others might think that OK.
I would grind it off if 500 degrees of heat does not release it, which it will. And you are going to cut the barrel anyway, if I read correctly. So the FS would be gone.
Sometimes simple things get complicated when planned by committee.

I agree. Probably over-thinking this and maybe making a mountain of a mole hill. I did spend some time as a young man in the Scouts, and a their motto was "Be Prepared".

Eagle Scout 67.
Be Prepared later turned out to be, Develop three Courses of Action addressing likely Enemy actions, using OCOKA, and the factors of METT-TC. Write the Op Order.
Doesn't mean doing it the hard way.

quote:

Originally posted by 2Barrels:
WoodHunter,

That's what I'm aiming for - no pun intended.

Force44 is easy to use, soft flame with the Acetylene torch.

I use a small air/acetylene torch, not much heat required.



Hardest part is keeping the ramp aligned while soldering. I made this jig, it works great:

I'll agree, 'Be Prepared' has taken on a new meaning.

As for installing new sights, nothing new here. I have a Forstner (sp) jig as well as a couple small jigs I've made to aid in the process of getting sights positioned right and held there while being secured. Last sight job I did for myself included a NECG barrel band front sight and NECG adjustable rear. Propane torch, flux and Force 44 did the trick.

Left both the front and rear sight disassembled when I took the barreled action in for Cerakote. Put the sights back together when I got it back.

Wood hunter, I do like the looks of your jig for securing the front sight. Allows for pressure on the front and rear or the sight, this keeping the rear of the sight from lifting off the bbl.

quote:

Originally posted by 2Barrels:
I'll agree, 'Be Prepared' has taken on a new meaning.

As for installing new sights, nothing new here. I have a Forstner (sp) jig as well as a couple small jigs I've made to aid in the process of getting sights positioned right and held there while being secured. Last sight job I did for myself included a NECG barrel band front sight and NECG adjustable rear. Propane torch, flux and Force 44 did the trick.

Left both the front and rear sight disassembled when I took the barreled action in for Cerakote. Put the sights back together when I got it back.

Wood hunter, I do like the looks of your jig for securing the front sight. Allows for pressure on the front and rear or the sight, this keeping the rear of the sight from lifting off the bbl.

I always wanted a Forster Fixture, finally found on on the cast bullet site. It will be here next week.

Back to soldering, I allow a few thou clearance between the barrel and the band for the 44 to wick into. flux properly and use the right heat and you will have 100 per cent bond.

Fitting the band:

In the past I've used a chucking reamer (because I have bunch purchased on the cheap at an estate sale) to open up the barrel band front sight.