My gunsmith does not do any bluing. Just wondering if there are any aftermarket products a consumer can use at home to blue a barrel that is decent?

If you are talking about "wipe on" blues, IMO they are not suitable for blueing a barrel, only touch up, and even at that questionable. They do not stay well and if you try to play tricks on them to get them to look nice, cold blues will forever have you working on uniformity on such a large section. OXPHO from brownells I occasionaly use.

for the last three months I have been learning how to rust blue. That procedure is strait forward, the results and skill are not. It is going to take some time.

Thanks, just bought a barrel for my Savage and it is a pull off so it has seen some use. The bluing needs touched up in a couple spots. I was going to have the whole gun bead blasted, but then it would need blued again. I was hoping for an easy cure. Guess i need to find a smith to do it, or just touch up the bluing now.

I use Oxpho for some specific restoration tasks - it hides/blends new work into the patina of old finishes pretty well.

And it's pretty durable for a cold blue. Brownell's "Gunsmith Kinks" has about 50 ways of using it for different effects.

But Plinkton's Rust Blue is relatively easy, authentic, and durable. Just takes a while, and you'll need a tank to boil barreled actions in.

I've just tried a product called "Blue Wonder" from Novum Systems. It's a two part process that requires modest heat (propane torch or heat gun). I tried it on the bottom metal of an old 1909 Argentine and the results were impressive. They claim it has the same durability as a hot blue. Sure does look like a hot blue!

Midway USA sells it. Be sure to buy the prep/cleaner with the kit.

Oxpho is pretty good, but that isn't saying much about a cold blue. I did use Oxpho to blue the blade of a deer skinning knife that I use a lot, and it has held up pretty well despite tremendous abuse. It's important to totally degrease whatever surface you are trying to blue.

Steve

I used Blue Wonder on a c. 1875 small action Martini barrel and it came out pretty decent. The action was originally case colored and I didn't have a convenient way to recolor it, the barrel was completely stripped of blueing. I spent a lot of time with a grinding wheel and sandpaper and left the barrel fairly rough, about down to 150-180 grit paper. Basically I was trying to get blue back on the barrel without having it look modern. I'm really happy with the color, I think not taking all the sanding texture out left it looking more or less original although anyone that knows would be able to tell.

I like to try a wide variety of cold blues, temperatures and processes with each piece of metal.

But there are a few guidelines:
1)The Dicropan blue is darker, but easily rubbed off.
2) The Oxpho blue is not as dark, but is more durable and will get darker under oil.
3) Simple Green acts as a de greaser

This gives rise to a general stategery:
1) Simple Green before cold blues
2) Dicropan before Oxpho and rub the Dicropan off the micro ridges, but still in the valleys
3) finish with Oxpho to color the micro ridges and cover with oil.
4) wait for the Oxpho under oil to work over night

Also:
If possible, like with a barrel, let the lathe do the work.
People ask how I get such a dark and tough blue on a barrel with cold blue, the secret is I apply the cold blue with Scotch Brite Pads and give just as much resistance as I can without rubbing any more blue off.

Some pieces of steel are just not going to cold blue. Give up.

Hello Rick and Browning!

I noticed your comments and am glad to hear you are happy with your results. Just want you to know we monitor these forums and are here to help with technical questions should any arise.

Let's Blue!

Back in the early 50's my Dad got a kit from Hereters to blue his customized Enfield. Had a long pan on the stove and this bag of "stuff". My brother now has that rifle and it still looks and shoots good. The stock was from them also. Those were the good old days.