I have the Hogue overmold stock/A&B barrel combo on my Ruger 10/22. The stock is too flexible to really show what the barrel will do but with Eley Tenex ammo it will shoot cloverleaf groups at 25yds. With Aguila SE, it'll shoot about a 1" group at 50yds. It doesn't like CCI, Blazer or bulk Remington at all. Go to Rimfire Central for good 22lr advice and information.
Good shooting, Ian
Posts: 294 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: 09 March 2003
I have a couple that shoot very well. I feel that they are a good value. They are adequate for my purposes.
However from past discussions on this forum I will tell you that the opinions are divided. It seem that they are either the best thing since sliced bread or a less than adequate substitute for concrete rebar.
I have a bunch of them, but the first one I installed had rifling button chatter marks in the grooves and on the lands for the full length. Those marks act like a file to cut copper off bullets. The copper fouling is horrible.
Now I have such a bad feeling about them, I don't know if I will ever get around to using the rest of them.
Two of the barrels arrived with tiny threads and adapter rings for the larger threads.
One barrel has 1/2" of warp in it.
If Lothar Walther barrels cost twice as much, they are worth allot more.
Can't recall hearing anyone ever saying that "they are the best thing since sliced bread"...
These are an inexpensive option for bargain hunters. Those I've personnaly looked at were rough and in need of straightening. From what i've seen, unless things drastically change, I could never, in good conscience, recommend these barrels to my customers...
Do a search on this site, as this subject has been discussed before. I was considering one, until this group convinced me otherwise. I spent a little extra, and bought a lother walters barrel. I'm glad I did.
I'm sorry to disagree, I have an Admas and Bennet on a Swedish action. Last Sat I fired three sub half in groups at 100 meters. I have a Burris 3X9 on it glass bedded to a Fajen laminated stock. My load was Lapua brass, 42 grains of 4350 driving a 140 grain Sierra BTHP OAL 3.000.
I used the Balistic Plex sight and each dot was on at 2,3,4 and 500 meters.
Yes, I'll put one on a Mauser.
Posts: 22 | Location: Arizona | Registered: 30 December 2002
quote:Originally posted by threefeathers: I'm sorry to disagree, I have an Admas and Bennet on a Swedish action. Last Sat I fired three sub half in groups at 100 meters. I have a Burris 3X9 on it glass bedded to a Fajen laminated stock. My load was Lapua brass, 42 grains of 4350 driving a 140 grain Sierra BTHP OAL 3.000.
I used the Balistic Plex sight and each dot was on at 2,3,4 and 500 meters. Threefeathers, How long did it take to get the copper out? Wet the bore with your favorite solvent and let it sit over night, then run a dry one through it.You may have to do this several times. There is more to a barrel than accuracy.I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but there's a lot of truth to the old saying, " You get what you pay for" This is especially true when it comes to rifle barrels. Stepchild
Yes, I'll put one on a Mauser.
Posts: 1326 | Location: glennie, mi. USA | Registered: 14 July 2003
This is a little off the subject, but Mr.Malmborg, as others have previously stated, I too appreciate yours as well as JBelks expert opinions on various gunsmithing topics, and the list doesn't stop there, There are many knowledgeable people on this board and thanks to you all. Stepchild
Posts: 1326 | Location: glennie, mi. USA | Registered: 14 July 2003
While I don't doubt that occasionally you will run across one that shoots well, I don't believe that is the norm.
I believe your 3 sub .5" groups are a testiment to the bedding, The optics, the Sierra bullets and quite possibly to your shooting ability as much as it is the barrel...
Thank you, I think it is a serviceable barrel that has a hunting use. I lucked out, the gun smithing was excellent by a former 6th Army AMU member and it shows the little things make a major difference. When I was firing on the 63 ARCOM teams our C/O was convienced that once a shooter knew where the bullet would go they could develop technique to do it all the time. Bedding, sights, ammo, and most of all proper technique are the essential things in getting good groups.
Next, after 40 years of shooting I am convinced that a proper break in is essential of any barrel. Tetra gun has a good article on that, although I uses Militec for this Barrel.
Posts: 22 | Location: Arizona | Registered: 30 December 2002
I have bpught two A@B barrels. A 270 and a 7mm. The 7mm I had made into a 7x57 is a stainless barrel and does not copper foul and shoots 5 shot groups mostly pretty close to an inch at 100 yards. The 270 I have shot 30 rounds thru it and believe it to have great possibilities as a consistent under MOA shooter. This rifle showed no copper fouling in those 30 shots on a very hot day. You can inspect the barrel before you have it fitted to make your decision to keep or send it back for a replacement.
I'm looking for a 6.5mm barrel for a custom project. Need at least 24", preferably 26" that I can cut down. It's going to be a short action 6.5mm wildcat of some sort. Perhaps a 6.5x284 or a 6.5x300WSM.
Thanks,
Posts: 10 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 August 2003
I put one on a 98 in 243 the thing shoots like house on fire for th first 40 rounds then it has to be cleaned. I shot one 1.75 in group at 400 yards with it. Has long as you keep this one clean she well put them in one hole.
Posts: 19712 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001
All in all this is a good barrel, but i start each shooting session with it by running a patch with Militec and getting it warm to the touch. I then clean after 40 rounds, a simple run of a patch with militec a couple of times. I'll bet that in a few more sessions I won't need a second cleaning. Funny, when I was shooting military competition we wouldn't clean our M-14s for several weeks for fear of ruining the zero.
Posts: 22 | Location: Arizona | Registered: 30 December 2002
