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I was interested if anyone had ever had experience of Mauser actioned take down (Holland and Holland style) rifle. In this conversion the rear tang is cut off just infront of the rear screw. The front part of the action is machined to form a male part which locates in a rear tang shaped female (that is deeper for more secure location) that stays in the stock courtesy of the rear action screw. A steel faced glass bed is used to prevent shaving the bed. To dissasemble the front action screw is undone and the barreled action swung up and away from the modified rear tang. The idea is to reduce packing length to the length of the stock but retain zero. Anyone tried it or seen it? | ||
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1894 sure this type of action retain the zero , but don't need a few shoots to settle the barrelled action to the stock ? , I just read an artuicle about the M1 Garand , and it need a minimum of 20 shoots after complete diaseamble to settle the action to the stock prior any accuracy test . Daniel | |||
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1894 I good friend of mine took one off Francis� hands. A 1950s 375 H&H. It is a nice rifle and appears a good system. No shift of zero on a trip to Zim. | |||
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This is Similar to Newton's system. Newton used the hinged floorplate as a wrench, the front of the floorplate (the 'hinge') was modified to contain the front screw, and the arrangement was adjustable for any wear. No tools required for takedown. I will be building such a takedown system later this year for a client. Harald Wolf built a rifle in this manner about 2 years ago and had photos in one of the Hatari Times. ------------------ My Warden sometimes allows me to respond to email. NEW Address is rifles@earthlink.net ***********Jail Flash******* | |||
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I have a mauser action Rigby take down rifle in 350 caliber and it breaks down by unscrewing the barrel/forend from the action/stock. Appears to be a weird system at first but it works. | |||
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