Refinishing the stock on a Beretta 686 and have a question of what to use for the stain or finish. I bought the walnut stain and tru oil (made by same people) assuming these are to be used together?? I notice the stain is water based. I have some Minwax stain (oil based) that has a color I really like.
If I want to use Tru Oil for the finish, can I use an oil based stain like the Minwax or water base only? I really don't want to do it twice, any suggestions helpful as this is my first try at refinishing.

I don't like stains so I won't comment there. I've had good luck with truoil but I find it thick and I thin it down quite a bit .

I've had bad luck with the Birchwood Casey water based stains so I would stay away from those. I've used Pilkingtons which is some type of mineral base with great success and Transtint which is a water based dye. Of the two I much prefer the Pilkingtons. Never a worry about raised grain and it goes on very smooth without that blotchy look you get with some stains.

After you stain, cut your truoil down 50% and seal. after that you're ready to start finishing.

Personally, I prefer poly based finishing products. I just feel they're a little tougher, but some here really like Truoil and they do amazing work.

Terry

I would agree with the comments to avoid water based stains. I haven't used them on rifle projects, but on numerous other woodworking projects. Water based stains and the water based finishes I found troublesome to use without getting grain raise and similar annoyances. I am sure some very skilled woodworkers have figured out how to do it, but I never did.

Pilkingtons is great, the R Gale Lock stains are also carried in some volatile solvent and don't cause grain raising. I combined R Gale Lock Black Walnut with Pilkingtons English Red (separate coats) to get a nice dark DARK brown with red overtones, like the really old British rifles - starting with fairly light and plain American black walnut on a CZ. I plan to finish with coat of Truoil, hoping it darkens a bit more, then GunSaver Custom Oil after that sets up for a few weeks.

How do you guys thin TruOil?

Todd

I go about 60/40 truoil to paint thinner also called mineral spirits.

I prefer Aniline dye stains which are referred to as Lacquer or Alcohol soluble stain . They don't raise grain are " Clean clear " in appearance , rather than muddy like Oil stain or Pigmented type stain . Lighter color or 2 3 4 color blends extremely easy to dilute with either of those solvents . A hint of mahogany with a top coat of walnut or fruitwood ? , experiment on scrap wood from the same blank until you like it !.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

I have used the BC stain a little, it's an odd stain. less cloudy that regular oil-based pigment stains, but an interesting color.

I prefer spirit stains, and outer's stain and filler (mixed with some turp and BLO). it has an awesome color. the stuff I have is old, I haven't looked to see if the new stuff is the same.

Anybody remember "lin-speed" stock finish? Is it still available?

Yes, never tried it though. I would be interested in the opinion of those that have.

http://www.lin-speed.com/

Thanks for all the suggestions. Sounds like I will stay away from the Birchwood stain. Will take a look at the Pilkingtons stuff. Going to rub the stock w/ alcohol first, might end up just using the tru oil.

I would also recommend Permalyn Gunstock finish that was recommended by Joe Balickie and John Bivins. It's not nearly as spendy as some and I have been very satisfied with the results.