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What is it exactly? How does it work? Is there removal of metal as in conventional filing or is it more like burnishing a surface. I saw Jack Belks' site and it got me wondering. Books, web sites, etc? Thanks, Alan | ||
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Is it a special file? I have some old parts, so how would I go about giving this a shot for arguments sake. | |||
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<G.Malmborg> |
Alan, Draw filing is used to longitudinally plane or shape large or long surfaces like the side of a receiver or the length of a barrel etc. It is used to rough shape, form and to remove surface damage by quickly bringing a piece to a point where it can then be preped for the final finish. In draw filing, the file is held 90 degrees to the work piece and is pulled straight back towards the operator in one full draw of the file. Chalk is used on the teeth of the file to keep the file from loading up and digging in. In shaping, removing waves or removing rough machine marks from a barrel, you make a couple of passes, nonstop down the entire length of the barrel and then shift the barrel a small distance so the next path overlaps the first and you repeat the process. Continue working your way around the barrel until you are back at your starting point. It takes a bit of practice and control to become proficient at draw filing, but once you do, then you will have another useful skill that can be applied to a lot of different projects. Have fun. Malm | ||
<JBelk> |
Carnivore--- I emailed you a zip file of polishing information. Go HERE and look at the Hand Polishing album for pictures and explainations of draw filing. Use a sharp smooth mill file and be SURE to degrease it with brake clean and KEEP it free of oil. Even a fingerprint on the file can cause the swarf to stick in a tooth and rip a gouge that looks like an irrigation ditch. | ||
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G. Malmborg: quote:You're left handed ? | |||
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Sysephus, You use both hands so it doesn't really matter! In draw filing the motion can be either toward or away from the filer. I prefer toward in most cases like with barrels. I've done a lot of filing and consider myself to be pretty good at it. A real master of the craft though is Martin Hagn. When he and Ralf martini do their half round barrels with rib, they are milled octagon then the front half is milled so that it is sixteen sided. Martin files it round. I have measured them and they are never out of round by more than .002. On top of that they are smooth and perfectly detailed. While I can possibly do the same thing, I can't do it with the air of nonchalance the "old master" displays. It is possible to do work by hand that can equal or improve on that produced by any machinery but of course not everyone can do so. Regards, Bill | |||
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When drawfiling, keep the tail of the file pointed to your left for proper cutting. | |||
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When draw filing if you PUSH the file the tang must be on the RIGHT side. If you PULL the file the tang must be on the LEFT side. | |||
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<G.Malmborg> |
Sysephus, No, if I were left handed I would have probably said "hold the file 270 degree". Malm | ||
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G Malmborg I bought a set of micrometers once and each one had 270 degrees marked on them. When I asked the owner the significance he informed me his last name was West. | |||
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<G.Malmborg> |
Pretty clever... Thanks. | ||
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I didn't see anyone mention that draw filing is done with a SINGLE cut file. You could push or pull but if it's not cutting you've got it backward. Clean the file often. | |||
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