Hello
I have a savage 110 7rem mag synthetic and my first shot is always 2" different than my next two in s group of 3. The barrel is very thin and nice to carry.
Question: Is there a simple way to float the barrel in a plastic! stock?
A gunsmith in this area quoted $150 pillar and glass bedded.
I can get a kit for bedding if necessary and do it myself. I am willing to experiment if I can get proficient without doing 30 bedding jobs!
I am not a gunsmith and would just like to gain proficiency with rifle.



Matt

sometimes there is a small hump at the end of the forearm that gives slite pressure to the barrel.it can be removed with sandpaper wrapped around a round object.take it down till it is flush with the rest of the inside of the barrel channel. put the barreled action in the stock and tighten the screws. do not over tighten. take a dollar bill and slide it between the barrel and forearm. if it slides easy back to the action you should be in good shape. bedding is easy just follow the directions on the acraglass box. sometimes i put a buisness card between the barrel and the end of the stock to give a little more space before i bed the action, then remove the card after the bedding sets up.be careful not to get carried away with the epoxy you can always add more by roughing the old with heavy grit sandpaper make sure you fill any holes on the action with clay or something of the sort. you dont want these places to fill with epoxy. you will never get the action out of the stock.ps. check your action screws first. they may be to tight and throwing your flyers down range

It's pretty difficult to get the epoxy to bong to that Savage plastic. You need to use a ball mill to route out the stock with lots of holes so that the lump of epoxy is locked into the stock. You also need plenty of thickness (of epoxy) behind the recoil lug, as the rap of the gun going of can seperate the bond there. The metal filled bedding compound (stainless prefferred) will bond the best. I learned all this from bedding my Striker twice, and seeing how easy it was to pop the old bedding material out. It can be done, and my gun shoots better than ever. Although the dual pillar setup on the new Savages is pretty good by itself. You might want to try swapping the recoil lug for a Sharpshooters Supply one first to see if that improves consistancy. The original one is pretty uneven.

Thanks for the help to all

I will give the sandpaper a try. It is about 5 years old and it does not have pillar bedding.

If it does not work does anybody have a recomendation on a upgrade for about $200 max!

matthew

Whatever you do, don't spend $150 on getting it bedded. Savage would send you a newer stock that is pillar bedded for about $90.

Hello
Which of the stocks Savage uses right now come pillar bedded? I was looking at a aftermarket stock for my project, when I saw this thread. Is the laminate stock on the 112 the one that is pillar bedded???

To my knowledge, all the newer stocks have pillar bedding. If you want to go "cheap," get the synthetic replacement for your rifle. It's a simple swap.

If you have questions, call Savage and ask for Joe DeGrande. Mention my name and that I referred you. He'll answer your questions and take care of you. He's a good man.

Russ

Matt, about a month ago I purchased a new 110 with a synthetic stock. I bought an aftermarket stock and installed it without even shooting the rifle first. The stock is pillar bedded. $60 to your door if you are interested. Also Sharp Shooter Supply has some great stocks. I think they were about $225. Ken
kenboyd@paramountgasket.com

Thanks ken

The pillar bedded stock sounds good! Where did you get it?
I did find the original stock did not fit straight at the forend and sanded as needed. I will try it out tomorrow and let you know the results.

Matt

Whoa Betty, lots of assumptions flying around here.

First off, it's not all that hard to bond to the plastic. A good epoxy (Bisonite, Devcon, Marine Tex) will bond well enough, if the stock is roughed and degreased properly. I just did a 110 in a cheap Ram line stock, and it worked very well, without creating mechanical locks. I have some Devcon Aluminum Putty on order for my 7mag -- first time I get to play with it, but the "pro's" like it.

Second, just because a stock has pillars, doesn't mean it doesn't need bedding. If it's an H&S, yeah, but a run of the mill stock, naw, don't think so. I'd bed it, anyway.

Third, check your inletting. One of my 110's was binding the tang badly, causing it to throw shots every which way.

The 110 must be by far the easiest action to bed, IMHO. Compared to the Ruger 77, it's a cakewalk. If I can do it, you can. FWIW, Dutch.

I've done a fair bit of bedding over the years and have used Acraglass and the gel with extra steel or alum mixed in, Devcon Steel, Bisonite, Marine-Tex, epoxy from the local hardware in the steel flavor, Micro-bed, Brownells Steel bed, a 50-50 mix epoxy stuff for putting golf club heads on shafts when I was making golf clubs, JB compound and just about any thing I could find. They all work to a greater or lesser extent.

I use a lot of JB compound because it is cheap and I can get it in the 10 oz shop size at most discount auto parts places. I've also used JB's to repair truck and heavy equipment pieces and parts and it does work very well.

I have a Sav 112 with a synthetic stock and I cut out notches in the fore arm stiffners, then imbedded a cut down chevy push rod in JB compound to stiffen it up a bit and used a 3/4" dowel wrapped with an old sander belt cut to fit. It worked fine.

After all that trouble I bought an unfinished laminated LA stock from Boyds and I'm in the process of fitting it to my hand and cheek. It's the same stock that comes on the fancy varminter except unfinished and without the pillars. I have the pillers already fitted, a steel trigger guard, a decelerator pad and a piece of ebony for a grip pretty and a 22-243 Midd barrel in the works. By the time I get it finished I will have barrels from 17 Rem to a 416 Rem I can swap in depending on what's on the plate for today. Ahhhh, I love these modern times.

Makatak

thanks to all,

This site is full of people with many talents. I look forward to my growth as a gun owner. Back to the point.
I went out and it still shot 1st shot about two inches from the next two. Since I have to replace the scope anyway( the simmons scope I think is not strong enough for the 7mag recoil(lots of it)), I plan on putting a nikon 3x9 for about $200. I will then try my experiment again(3 shots and cool). I will get in contact with savage today and see what they can do. I will bed a stock but I might as well start with something pillar bedded.
QUESTION: What do you think when someone say's that the 110 action is not the strongest and would not recomend it for magnum chambers?

P.S. It is hot down here!

thanks,
Matthew J.

I'd tell him he's buying the next round....... JMO, Dutch.

Russell, is there a reason you chose the Savage?

I went with the Rem 700 for my 338/416 being built and my brother also with his 338/378.

His pushes the 300gr SMK at 3000fps over the Oehler 43 with 118gr H870 with a 32" Pacnor.

[ 06-16-2002, 03:55: Message edited by: Brent Moffitt ]

Actually, there were two reasons.

One, I used a 112BVSS-S in .300 Winchester Magnum. Pulled the barrel off as soon as it arrived and got to work -- rather, my gunsmith did. This rifle has no hole in the bottom of the action for a magazine. Extra metal means extra strength -- and if you want to argue this point, please refer all arguments to the "barrel fluting" thread elsewhere on this website. Savage's own tests showed that otherwise-identical rifles differed in accuracy when comparing their "magazine" rifles with their single-shots. In "every" case, their single-shots were more accurate. I wanted the strength, which I equated to rigidity and, therefore, accuracy.

Two, I didn't want to spend money I didn't have to. Remington actions cost more, Winchester actions cost more, and Weatherby actions cost a LOT more. All I needed was a "good" action, and there's not a thing wrong with the one Savage makes... and, as I said, their single-shot is stronger than those made by others who make single-shots out of their "regular" magazine-opening receivers.

Mine is with a Douglas #9-contour, XX-Premium, 32-inch barrel. With the Richards Micro-Fit stock and 8-32x Burris Signature scope, and M-85 bipod, the rifle weighs in at 19.5 pounds. Between the weight and the muzzle brake, recoil is more of a shove than a kick. The whole rig is quite impressive, and shooting it is even more so.

Once I can get my hands on some Retumbo, it's going to be playtime. I'm sure I can up the muzzle velocity to 3100 FPS easily, without making pressures insane.

Russ

[ 06-16-2002, 04:31: Message edited by: Russell E. Taylor ]