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Sako Bedding tips?
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I've bedded 8 or 9 Remington and Winchester Actions. Any tricks or tips for a Sako...Its a L579 action (and a L691). Recently got some McMillan Drop ins and want to finish it right...
 
Posts: 457 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: 25 February 2002Reply With Quote
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As I understand it, McMillan stocks do not need to be bedded for top accuracy, they are a true drop in.

[ 10-05-2003, 02:32: Message edited by: Thomas ]
 
Posts: 248 | Location: Republic of Alberta | Registered: 04 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Although mcmillans are well made actions do vary slightly so no drop in will be as precise as a bedded action.I pillar bed my mcmillans like any other stock.

[ 10-05-2003, 03:41: Message edited by: stubblejumper ]
 
Posts: 3104 | Location: alberta,canada | Registered: 28 January 2002Reply With Quote
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I don't know about the McMillans but I had a gunsmith fully bed an L691 (in .375) and it broke the Kevlar stock! Not the stocks fault. Since then I've learned you can't bed the rear of the tang solidly on that model. Rather leave a little gap around the rear radius of the tang.
It's been extremely accurate bedded either way.
Kyler
 
Posts: 2515 | Location: Central Coast of CA | Registered: 10 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the opinions so far...but nobody has really given me any Sako bedding advice. And even McMillan recommends you bed their drop in stocks...
Anyone with any direct experience can tell me if there are any bedding tricks or procedures particular to the old Sako actions? Specifically the L579...As I mentioned, I've bedded several other rifles and wondered if ther is anything I should know before I start mixing bedding compund?
 
Posts: 457 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: 25 February 2002Reply With Quote
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As with most actions I prefer to bed with glass pillars. This means I drill a 1/2 to 5/8 inch hole (depending on what the bottom metal will cover)clear through at each screw location. In the MacMillan stock I may not drill clear through but will go most of the way through from the top. On the Sako I will go ahead and bed the bottom of the recoil lug. I will not bed any portion of the barrel. I put two layers of masking tape at the rear of the tang.
I prefer to use the original liquid Acraglas just because I've been using it for 30 years. I use tape around the barrel at front and rear to establish the level for the receiver. The screws are not tightened but used to locate the action only. The receiver may be bedded for it's entire length or at each end only. It's your choice and results can be just fine either way. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3839 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Bill,
Thanks. Since I've only really bedded M700s which don't have a rear tang per se I hadn't really thought about that difference. The rifle is a .243 Winchester so heavy recoil isn't an issue.
I'll probably skip the pillars but have used em in the past on my model 70s'. In the McMillan there won't be much flex...

Thanks again...
 
Posts: 457 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: 25 February 2002Reply With Quote
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