I have done an extensive search on the forums and have realized that checking is not somthing that comes easy.

My question is: is re-chekering easier and could this be done by the layperson with patience?

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Originally posted by Fbull:
I have done an extensive search on the forums and have realized that checking is not somthing that comes easy.

My question is: is re-chekering easier and could this be done by the layperson with patience? Yes

The best way to start is on scrap wood. You're most likely going to screw up the first few patterns you try. Flats are easier to work, do patterns on them until you are getting nice crisp diamonds without runovers and then maybe move on to an old stock to recut................DJ

Practice, cuss, practice, cuss, practice and be aware perfection comes to very few. Most get real good however after following the above. I strongly suggest you get the Joe Balicke (sic) video, it will help.

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My question is: is re-chekering easier and could this be done by the layperson with patience?

If what you're asking is: Is recutting existing checkering easier, the answer is maybe. If it was originally very good checkering, it can be quite easy to re-point the diamonds. If it was not very good to begin with, you'll discover every mistake the orignial artisan made. Either way, it can be good practice. It will help build muscle-memory on holding and using the tools, but in my experience the two keys to checkering are first, the initial layout, and second, the initial spacing pass. Get these two things right and you'll have a good result. Get one or both wrong, and you'll likely be sanding it off and starting over.

This may be stupid advice, but hear me out! Personally I never got my heart into a "throwaway practice work"

Do your best on a stock you plan to be proud of for the rest of your life.

It's the only incentive that will make you do your absolute best.

I've taught stockmaking/checkering..some folks JUST CAN'T DO IT!..Nobody excells in everything!

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some folks JUST CAN'T DO IT!

yup - thats me

If you enjoy experimenting, I have often suggested trying checkering out while re-cutting some on an existing stock. When re-cutting always use single-line tools as the guided spacing tools will not match any spacing but what that tool was used on originally. Get a short pull cutter and a longer push cutter, don't go too deep, and SLOW Down when close to the ends of the lines. If you make it through this, you'll know if you wish to pursue the craft any further.

I re-cut my Browning A-Bolts Medalion stock.

I was never happy with the way the checkering points ended not to mention my taste changed and I wanted an oil rubbed stock instead of the high gloss Texacron that Browning uses.

I purchaced a Dem-Bart single point cutter and handle and a couple extra cutters and started with no practice.

I do a lot of bench work building injection molds so this was easy for me. Take your time and you will be fine I'm sure.

Here is a panel from the Browning that I re-cut.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
This may be stupid advice, but hear me out! Personally I never got my heart into a "throwaway practice work"

Do your best on a stock you plan to be proud of for the rest of your life.

It's the only incentive that will make you do your absolute best.

I've taught stockmaking/checkering..some folks JUST CAN'T DO IT!..Nobody excells in everything!

Mr. Wiebe I'm sure you've forgotten more about checkering than I will ever know but it's the "Some folks just can't do it" that makes me hope they didn't start out by just not doing it on something they were hoping to keep! .

I sincerely appreciate and enjoy your posts here. They have been educational and inspirational to me, Thank you..................DJ

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
This may be stupid advice, but hear me out! Personally I never got my heart into a "throwaway practice work"

Do your best on a stock you plan to be proud of for the rest of your life.

It's the only incentive that will make you do your absolute best.

Simply some of the best advice I've seen written. I could not agree more.

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
I re-cut my Browning A-Bolts Medalion stock.

I was never happy with the way the checkering points ended not to mention my taste changed and I wanted an oil rubbed stock instead of the high gloss Texacron that Browning uses.

I purchaced a Dem-Bart single point cutter and handle and a couple extra cutters and started with no practice.

I do a lot of bench work building injection molds so this was easy for me. Take your time and you will be fine I'm sure.

Here is a panel from the Browning that I re-cut.

I would be proud of that on any of my rifles! This is something I always wanted to do.

A question - is to absolutely necessary to get a cradle? Can I make one rather than pay $100? Any one with a simple sketch or photos to help me out please?

Cheers

I checkered many stocks before getting a cradle, holding a bolt rifle by the barrel in the vise is easy although sometimes awkward. I did a lot of checkering with the stock held on my lap but I don't suggest this approach.

I suggest:
First purchases should include a single-line cutter with fairly fine teeth, a best-quality veiner, a toothbrush, a bent needle file with medium-coarse teeth & with either a 60- or 90-degree cutter shaft to match your other cutters, and at least one Brownell's full-view double-shaft cutter handle with the adjustable-angle cutter head feature. You'll need other things for layout and marking the pattern but these quality tools will get you started cutting and you'll never outgrow them.

Before your first job, in order to learn how to operate the tools and learn how they cut, you'll need at least one practice piece of wood. I strongly suggest that this practice piece be a section of juglans regia (European thin-shell walnut) from a NON-OIL-SOAKED old military Mauser stock, or similar hard dense wood that will cut cleanly. You don't need any surprises or distractions when first learning, and quality tools combined with quality practice will help you a lot.

Similarly, I suggest that your first full start-to-finish checkering job be done on a hard, dense clean-cutting stock. Duane's advice is spot-on, I've found that my first effort at almost anything frequently turns out to be one of my best efforts, at least until I've learned a LOT more!
Regards, Joe

On my Browning re-do I first block sanded all the Texacron of the stock it is thick but not hard to sand. I also blocked the ruber but pad flush with the stock. When the stock was free of finish I then started checker-fixing.

I put the stock back onto the action and held the barrel in my bench vice to re-cut.

Take your time, it took me about 1 hr. per panel. It took me nearly forever to sand the oil into the stock....but that is another project compleatly.

My Browning Madalion now has good checkering that is sharp and has good tangent points and a oiled stock to boot. This is the only pic I have of the fin. project.

Ted,

Kudos on the great stock work!
I'd be proud to own those rifles.

Don