Hello, you "know-how's".
I'm thinking of ordering a "pre-fit" barrel from Pac-Nor, for my Brno Zkk602. I want to upgrade the rifle from .460 Wby to 500 A-Square.
And I know that I'll HAVE to have a recoil-lug on the barrel on this one to. On my 460 barrel it is such a lug. But that one is milled out from the barrelblanks right under the rear sights. If I get this this barrel from Pac-Nor, how can I then fix a recoil lug on the barrel, that can take this beating from a 500??
I hope you understand what i mean. Can you give me some advices, and maybe a picture of any ideas?

send your rifle to Ragnar Hansen, Vestfossen. He will know what to do and then you do not have to worry. He will order the .510 barrel in a large blankdia. and then mill out a recoil lug - excactly as on your 460 barrel I quess ( by the way; who did the gunsmithing work on your 460 Wby ??)

He did!
The only thing I'd have to worry about if he does the job, is who shall I robb to pay this man.
I'll do most of the rebarreling myself, and just want some tips.

Search the archives, in either big bores or gunsmithing. Several posts about barrel mount recoil lugs and photos that I posted.



Briefly: Mill a lug about 1 inch long, slightly narrower than the barrel. Mill to fit the barrel contour. I like the lug to be at least 1/2 inch thick top to bottom. Taper the front and sides (5 degrees) so it will release from the stock bedding. And I put a slight taper (about 1-1/2 degrees) on the rear, allows the barreled action to be removed from the bedding with out too much effort. You need crossbolts, one behind the action recoil lug and one behind the magazine well.



EAW makes a rear sight band with an intergral lug, NECG sells them in the US. Turn the barrel to fit and silver solder on.



I install the lug on the barrel with two 8-40 screws and Highforce 44 silver solder.



Photos in the archives have expired, so two photos below:

I'm also fascinated by this as my next project is going to be a DG rifle. Are there any precautions to take about the amount of heat applied to the barrel? Everyone seems so concerned about free floating barrels, barrel harmonics, stress relieving, etc. How does adding the lug later effect these things?

Thanks John.
I too, did'nt like the idea of using any heat on the barrel. But I truly believe you know what you're doing.

Another question for this subject. What is the minimum caliber that requires a second recoil lug on the barrel? Is it required/recommended on a 375 Taylor, a 416 Rigby, any 40 or 408 caliber or just in the big 450+ guns?

Ruger, I believe was about the first to use a recoil device that's shaped something like two "L's" laid end to end, the short leg of the "L" comes up behing the action recoil lug and the other short leg goes down into the fore end...He glasses everything into place...I see USRA has done the same...It's gotta be easy, cheap and effective...seeya

A CZ has a different layout but what I have done to Wby is:

The action recoil lug has about 1/4" machined off each side.

A steel plate about 5 inches long, 1 inch wide and 1/4" thick has a slot cut in one end for the action recoil lug to go through.

The stock is cut out to allow the plate to go up into the forend.

When the plate is first put into the stock I have the back of the recoil lug glued to the plate to keep it lined up and some epoxy around the plate. When the glue is set I then pull the barreled action out and complete the gluing of the plate. The plate has a lot of holes drilled in it.

From then on the rifle is just bedded as if it was a 222 and you never have to worry about recoil lugs on any future barrels.

Mike

Do you think this two last options mentioned here is enough to take the recoil of a fully loaded 500 A-Square??
I doubt this. I'd sure like to have a lug on the barrel.
My rifle is a .460 wby, as is, and the stock is properly strenghten for it. It's a straight laminate stock with two recoil-crossbolts, recoil-lug on the barrel, and glass bedded all the way. But the thing here is how to do this to a barrel thats pre-fitted? I first have to make the headspace right, and then I'll have to fix a recoil-lug on the barrel(just to make sure it's on the right place when the barrel is screwed into the action).

460--Even though most on here will not agrre it is best to use a bedding bar like Mike described, like the ready made ones I use made by Ruger,or made like his.Then there is no alignment problems if rechambering and headspacing,
with lugs on barrels.I use Ruger bedding bars on all both
my Ruger 77 and Enfields.They have held 15,000 ft lbs. for me.Many hundreds of loads from 7-9000 ft lbs.I also because
of my real hairy cartridge use a barrel band on front of
stock, holding barrel onto a pad on front of stock.Ed.

So, you think this will do??
I like the idea. Then I'll dont have to think about this problem with the barrel-lug at all.
Does anybody have any picture of such a "system"?

You can e-mail me directly at: aristoe@frisurf.no

I believe barrels made by the custom US makers to be stress relieved after rifling at 1000 deg F higher for stainless. well under the melting point of the solder suggested.

460--Ithink Mike and someone else posted plans on here
a while back.I will have son post picture of mine next
couple days...Ed.