I have a Savage 110 in 7-08. Can I chamber for 416 Taylor by just the barrel swap and switching to the magnum bolt face or is there way more to it?

I'm not sure, but with your short cartrige they may have a pcacer in the mag that would need removed. other than that as you said, the bolt face.

If you have an older Savage 'long' short action, which is a cleverly modified long action, I don't think this would work. It isn't set up for short rounds with just a magazine spacer, but instead has a shorter magazine cutout in the bottom of the action, a shorter magazine, and a spacer attached to the bolt head that runs in the right bolt raceway, and shortens the full length bolt's throw to 'short action' length. It's a whole different beast than the 110 long action.

As cheap as a Savage is, it would be easier to buy a long action receiver and bolt than pay a gunsmith to modify it for long cartridges. Check with Numrich for those parts. On the plus side, the long-short actions use the same stock as the long actions, so you could share a stock between two barrelled receivers.

Todd

Thanks for the info. It is the newer true LA. How do I go about changing the bolt heads? It seems that I would just have to knock out the bolt head retaining pin but I want to be sure what to expect. Better safe than sorry!

The 110 is a long action, and will handle the taylor EASY.. yep, just change the bolthead and barrel... midway has em both...

you might have to change the magbox, though.. i think it's 17 bucks!
jeffe

I swapped a 30-06 barrel on a Savage 110 for a 416 Taylor in the last two weeks and I posted what I did and how I did it, I think, but maybe I didn't fully explain it so Here goes again.

To swap bolt heads you have to remove the firing pin or you will cause yourself a whole passle of troubles. Keep the hammer in your truck cab for whacking piss ants.

On my Savage bolt the handle end has a nut that you use an allen wrench to remove. Just unscrew the nut which is the firing pin/firing pin spring retainer. On mine there was just a tiny bit of pressure from the firing pin spring so just be carefull when you get to the end of the thread so the spring doesn't jump out. You have to slide the internal pieces out about 1" to clear the firing pin then the bolt head pin will slide out. SLIDE OUT, you don't have to pound anything, just PUSH on it with a small punch. you also have to remove the cocking button and it has a hole in one end of it's retainer so it will come out. Just take your time and look things over before you get hammer fisted. Everything comes apart and goes together easily. I wouldn't pull the firing pin out all the way until you get to feeling better about handling the pieces and parts because there is a small part on the firing pin toward the pointy end that controls the length of the firing pin protrusion. On the newer bolts there is a bump on the inside of the bolt that locates the bolt head in the right position and the bolt head has a cutout to match. The older bolts didn't so you could get the head turned 180� out of phase and the bolt wouldn't go back where it belonged. I's a very good idea. I learned that the hard way.

Put the magnum bolt head on WITH the wave washer and insert the pin so the hole is aligned with the firing pin, slide the firing pin forward and align the cocking button in it's hole, then slide the firing pin forward and put on the retaining nut. Tighten it firmly but not to the point of stripping. You will want to swap the bolt head again some time and firing will tighten it up also. That's about all there is to it. Once you've done it a few times it will become easier. You can also install a .223 size bolt head and swap in one of the smaller calibers but you will have to single load because the little ones like to jump out, they're a little too skinny to fit the standard box mag.

I installed a magmum box magazine because the Taylors shoulders didn't quite fit the bumps on the standard box. The mag box bumps are about 1/4" farther forward but changing magazine boxes is a real pain in the ass and not for the faint hearted. I made a wedge to fit inside the box from the top of the receiver to bend the tabs back where they belong because you WILL bend the tabs on each end of the box getting it out and if the box isn't put back in tight your rounds will stovepipe and fly out just like a 1911 when the mags lips get screwed up. I would leave the standard box in and not mess with it if I hadn't pissed around with these things for quite a while. The alternate is to weld/solder tabs to each end of the box then drill and tap a hole in the receiver for a screw then it will be a simple matter to swap boxes around. As soon as I get my mill set up, guess what I'm gonna do.

The 416T is a great thumper, on both ends.

Makatak, Thanks for that post. That information could save me alot of grief!

I was going to change the mag box on my Taylor for a little better reliability, but it sounds like a real ass painer. I figured it might be when I noticed that the lips on the mag box are crimped into th reciever.

The whole process of swapping Savage 10 or 110 barrels, bolts, bolt heads, magazines, stocks etc., is a simple procedure once you have done it a few times.

I started about 30 some years ago swaping Savage barrels because a gunsmith friend showed me the secrets, but circumstances dictated other things for me.

You can set your barrel headspace to fit your dies so the brass lasts longer due to very little squeezing except for the neck diameter. The case is headspaced on the shoulder not all the other strange places dictated by convention.

You can swap in just about any length case by having a machinist familiar with Savage fit the magazine and mill out a few thou in the correct locations and make a magazine box large enough to handle the full length of the cartridge. But you can also just seat the long calibers to fit the box and not be more than 0.200 shorter. My .375 H&H is seated to 3.42 which is 0.180 shorter than factory. Check out most of the other "long" ones and see they are all at about 3.60. It has that much more jump which is like having a long throated chamber.

The amount of capacity change is on the order of 5 grains of H2O, not a whole lot to get your shorts in a bunch over.

All very simple, cheap things to do and once done it take less than one hour to do all the changing, and if you write down your scope settings you will be within one minute of deer also.

Personally I will leave the longest box on and just make sure all the different length calibers will feed. This is not to be used for things that will eat you unless it has been specifically set up for that, but I wouldn't use anything other than a controlled feed rifle for those kinds of situations anyway. I can load one in the hole and one in the mag and one in my hand and have three shots available as fast as most can get off two but I practice and don't get cute when it's time to do things quickly.

Makatak, I don't suppose you still have that 30.06 barrel laying around do you?