There are no doubt numerous ways to get a scope's reticle level, but here's my way: I work at a workbench that has a wall at its end; the wall is made of horizontal boards that have visible lines between them, so these lines are level horizontally. I put the rifle on which I'm installing the scope into a cradle. I then use a spirit level to level the rifle vertically by lining up the spirit level with the screws in the buttpad.
Then, when the rifle is vertically level, I look through the scope and turn it to make the horizontal crosswire line up with one of the visible lines on the wallboard. When that's done, I tighten down the screws on the mount rings, and the crosswire is then at a 90 degree angle to the vertical line of the rifle -- that vertical line being defined by the imaginary line that goes through the two screws on the buttstock.
Posts: 5883 | Location: People's Republic of Maryland | Registered: 11 March 2001
Pur rifle in rifle cradle and put level on top of action flat or on top of a bottom ring half...get it level. Put scope in rings and put level on top of the adjustment turrent and level..tighten screws...all is level now. Don't have to carry the wall with you nor worry if the screw holes were drilled in line.
quote:Originally posted by Kentucky Nimrod: While you are at it spend the money on some loctite
I don't agree with this advice. I've mounted many scopes on many rifles, never used Loctite, and never had a problem of the screws in a scope mount becoming loose. I have changed scopes and mounts frequently, and need the freedom to do so without hassle.
Maybe if you've used a particular scope, mount, and rifle for awhile, and decided that you are completely satisfied with this particular combination, then using Loctite may be a good idea. But I wouldn't recommend using it at first, without working for some time with that rifle, scope, mount, and scope placement.
Posts: 5883 | Location: People's Republic of Maryland | Registered: 11 March 2001
I always use LocTite on the base screws (into the action), never on the rings. I change scopes & rings, so "locking" the rings won't work, but I very rarely ever change bases.
I don't agree with advice no to use Loctite. It is particularly adisable to use it (the blue, never the red, kind) on rifles that will be transported by swamp buggy, jeep, snowmobile, or other high-vabration modes into remote country, such as parts of Alaska. I have seen several costly failures in the outback due to loose mount screws, particularly loose windage adjustment screws on Redfield Jr. type mounts.
quote:Originally posted by eldeguello: I don't agree with advice no to use Loctite. It is particularly adisable to use it (the blue, never the red, kind) on rifles that will be transported by swamp buggy, jeep, snowmobile, or other high-vabration modes into remote country, such as parts of Alaska. I have seen several costly failures in the outback due to loose mount screws, particularly loose windage adjustment screws on Redfield Jr. type mounts.
I agree completely with the use of Loctite in such circumstances. But even then, I would recommend that the shooter use the gun awhile at the shooting range or in some other way, if possible, to make sure he/she is satisfied with the scope, mount, and the way the scope is mounted, before finally locking down the screws with Loctite and then taking it on the hunt.
Posts: 5883 | Location: People's Republic of Maryland | Registered: 11 March 2001
after leveling the gun while in a cradle, hang a weight (plumb-bob) from a string and align scope to string=ABSOLUTE vertical
loctite blue- I have never experienced difficulty (to the point of head failure)trying to loosten something with blue (or red for that matter)....its not superglue. I have had mounts loosen with larger calibers without it though. I use blue on a all mounts now in ADDITION to bedding the bases to the action. Take a look sometime at how much of your base does not contact your action. I believe the bedding is a more important contributor to vibs that loosen rings and base screws
Posts: 896 | Location: Austin,TX USA | Registered: 23 January 2001
I use all of the above means to level the horazontal cross hair, then normally unscrew everything go back to the old tried and true method of throwing the gun up to my shoulder until it looks right to me...We all hold a gun differently..
I use my guns a lot and they take a beating so I glass the base screws and bases in with Epoxy...if I want them out I heat the screws with a suger carmalizing propane torch that you can buy at the bakery sales places and just turn the screws out. this little torch has a very small flame that I can direct right at the screw head only. I never use anything except degreasing on the ring screws. I may use rubber cement inside the rings on big bores.
LE270, I would not use the screws on the butt pad to get the rifle level. Often the bottom of the butt pad is further off the vertical centerline than the top is. The butt centerline is slightly off plum so that it fits to the shoulder better.
Ditto what Ray Atkinson said ! We all shoulder/hold a rifle a little differently. Look through anyone else's scope and you will see reticles canted right or left, and not necessarily mounted off vertical; maybe just the difference in the way you hold the rifle. I try to mount them as vertical as possible, then make it look good to me. This also brings into play the type of reticle, critical eye relief, and clarity of image. Like Ray said, throw it up to your shoulder and line it up to your liking!!! AND spend the money for a good scope. Good shooting ! GREG
I mount the rifle in a vise or a fixture and back off about two feet, look through the scope and make sure the vertical crosshair points to the center of the bolt or bore. David
Posts: 113 | Location: NE Ohio | Registered: 28 February 2002
I mount the gun in a padded vise and put a short level across one of the bases (making sure they're equal), then I clamp the gun down while holding level. I try to then put the level on the scope adj cap to make sure everything is kosher. The other thing is I HATE THOSE WEAVER RINGS!!! They make me nuts with the screws on one side..always seems to turn the scope upon tightening...a different amount each time. Can you put a SMALL amount of bedding compound on the scope overnight to hold it while you tighten Weaver rings?
Posts: 504 | Location: New Hampshire | Registered: 09 December 2001
When using Weaver rings, degrease the scope and bottom half of the rings, dust the bottom halves with a little rosin, put a light film of oil inside the top halves, this will keep scope rotation to a minimum and sometimes eliminate it.
Another Weaver ring trick. To get the top half of the rings on a scope with out scratching the scope, place a business card between the rings and scope and push the rings on,then remove the card.
Posts: 1545 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001
quote:Originally posted by old4x4: The other thing is I HATE THOSE WEAVER RINGS!!! They make me nuts with the screws on one side..always seems to turn the scope upon tightening...a different amount each time.
The trick with Weaver rings is to start with the scope turned very slightly in the opposite direction from the way it will be pulled when the rings are tightened. If you do it a few times, you can learn to get it so that the scope will end up where you want it to be after you've tightened the rings.
Posts: 5883 | Location: People's Republic of Maryland | Registered: 11 March 2001
I also use locktite blue on base and ring screws. I have never had a problem removing rings to swap scopes if I need to (it doesn't come up very often, OK, almost never). I usually leave the same scope on a gun, learned some time ago to buy only good quality scopes, then there is no reason to have to change them. I never take the bases off of an action once they have been installed. Once on, they are part of the receiver, in my mind, but if I had to, I know they would come off. I absolutely hate weaver bases and rings...what absolute crap! I will never mount them on another gun, the design is pure sh*t. Maybe on a rimfire if there is no other choice. I mount the gun in a shop rest, level the gun, then look through the scope at a piece of paper taped to the wall with a horizontal line on it that has been leveled with a carpenters level. Works fine. At longer ranges scope adjustments will be off a bit if the scope is not level.
Set the scope in loose, throw it to your shoulder, turn it 'till it looks right. Carefully lower it, lock it down, done. I don't shoot from a vise, I shoot from my shoulder. If it looks right, and shoots right, I'm happy.
I use the level base and plumb bob method. Then i go to the range and take a big piece of poster board and mount it to my back stop. I then take a 4 ft level and draw a plumb line on the board. Mark a mark on the bottom and shoot at it. Then raise about 15 minutes and shoot again. If the new hole is to one side or the other of the line I then tweak the scope to adjust. Now the reticle is alined with the bore.
The problem with all the off the shoulder leveling methods, is that if you normally cant your rifle, even slightly, (of course you shouldn't, but many do) the methods are defeated.
I also throw the firearm to my shoulder and line the scope up that way. I have a buddy that every time I pick up his rifle I let him know that the scope is canted. His reply is to pick it up and hit the golf ball at 75 yards or the water bottle at 200 yards. It sure works for him. What ever works for you I guess. Smokey
There seem to be a couple of items here. First the mounting and then the adjusment of the scope crosshairs. I work a lot on target shotguns (turkey shoots, etc.) which sure beat up scopes. I always bed the base, which is normally never removed, but can be if needed. A little heat and the screws come out and a sharp tap with a drift punch on the side of the base and it is off. I set the cross hairs as was already mentioned, get back and line the verticle up with the top of the receiver or barrel and you don't have to worry if everything is level or not (as long as the base is on top) It gets a little harder with side mount bases and rings on some of the bolt actions, but with a little practice gets easier. Ed Kay
Posts: 17 | Location: St. Louis, Mo. USA | Registered: 01 January 2002
For me the Segway reticle leveler works as well as anything else, and doesn't require walls, cradles, levels, etc.....just an extra rubber band. I prefer the reticle to be properly positioned so that my rifle hold is proper and consistant.
For most normal shooting distances, a reticle that isn't perfectly squared up to the action and bore won't make a noticeable difference. At longer ranges, the point of impact will be out to one side or the other.
David Tubb wrote an article about his competition gun which is canted way out (like more than 20 degrees) from true. Not a big deal because he is zeroed for a particular distance, and he is comfortable holding the gun that way.
I think the important thing is that you are comfortable when you shoot and don't have to worry about holding the gun just so in order to hit what you are aiming at.
