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How to fill sling swivel hole?
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Picture of Slider
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I had two barrle bands installed on a couple big bores. Now I have a hole in the wood where the sling swivel was. Is there an inexspensive way to fill the hole in the wood stock?
 
Posts: 2694 | Location: East Wenatchee | Registered: 18 August 2008Reply With Quote
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Depending on the color of the wood and what would accent the wood. I'd get a dowel of a different color and use it as a plug. Ebony tip? ebony plug.


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Posts: 2534 | Location: National City CA | Registered: 15 December 2008Reply With Quote
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I am a golf club builder, and when fixing bore thru clubs like callaway irons we plug the exposed shaft tip with black polymer plugs.

If you know anybody in this field, ask for a few steel shaft tip plugs, glue them in place, file down and get it shiny by polishing it down with wet acetone.

Failing that wooden golf tees can work well.

Regards S&F
 
Posts: 463 | Location: Victoria, Australia | Registered: 26 September 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Slider:
I had two barrle bands installed on a couple big bores. Now I have a hole in the wood where the sling swivel was. Is there an inexspensive way to fill the hole in the wood stock?


IIRC you have a great stockmaker close by in Chic Worthing. Might give him a call for advice. I would use a 1/4" plug cutter and make a plug out of the most similar grain of the species of which your stock is made and glue in with carpenters glue or epoxy. The plug cutter should cut a slightly tapered plug. Use a high quality bit and a drill press for drilling out the screw hole to accommodate the plug. Make a padded method for holding the forend in a vise on your drill press. This extra effort will pay dividends. Finish off carefully and the fill may nearly disappear.

Luck,

Stephen
 
Posts: 538 | Location: Pacific Northwet | Registered: 14 August 2010Reply With Quote
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Or fab a diamond of ebony and inlet it cleanly. Round plugs are very neat and workmanlike but not quite as attractive as a more interesting shape. You could also use a gold or silver monogram plate with some appropriate engraving.
Regards, Joe


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Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
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If you're really feeling lazy and utilitarian, some epoxy and black dye works well. Unless you really get up close to it, it will pass for ebony quite easily. You could also dye it brown to match the stock.


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Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Inlet thre hole with a case head of the caliber of the gun or an ebony plug.



Doug Humbarger
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Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by D Humbarger:
Inlet thre hole with a case head of the caliber of the gun...


I like that idea. Different


Ray

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Posts: 117 | Location: Republic of Texas | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by D Humbarger:
Inlet thre hole with a case head of the caliber of the gun or an ebony plug.


Ya know I was going to suggest that. but didn't know how well it would go over.


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Posts: 2534 | Location: National City CA | Registered: 15 December 2008Reply With Quote
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I like the idea also. Does anyone have a pic of one that was done with the case head?
 
Posts: 2694 | Location: East Wenatchee | Registered: 18 August 2008Reply With Quote
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I mixed epoxy with walnut sawdust and filled it in. If I had to do it over, I'd use tru-oil or some other stock finish instead of the epoxy. It's a little darker than the rest of the stock, but blends in rather nicely.


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Posts: 1992 | Location: WI | Registered: 28 September 2007Reply With Quote
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Seat a non-fired but 'dead' primer in the case head. That would add an interesting touch.


Ray

...look up, and lift up your heads; for your redemption draweth nigh.
 
Posts: 117 | Location: Republic of Texas | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Here is the way my smith tool care of that problem.



It looks a lot nicer than a case head, IMO.

Keith


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Posts: 4553 | Location: Walker Co.,Texas | Registered: 05 September 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Hog Killer:
Here is the way my smith tool care of that problem.



It looks a lot nicer than a case head, IMO.

Keith
That's awfull- he ruined the stock,IMO.Here is how it should be done.[URL= ]a[/URL][URL= ]b[/URL]
 
Posts: 11651 | Location: Montreal | Registered: 07 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Heck, I thought it looked great! Kinda like the ebony inlays on the original Winchester high wall forearms, AAMOF. IMO a good idea, but it's JMO.

And sorry Shootaway, I don't like your solution nearly as well as some of the others.
Regards, Joe


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Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
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Well, JD, at least I know who has good taste, and who does not.

Keith


IGNORE YOUR RIGHTS AND THEY'LL GO AWAY!!!
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Posts: 4553 | Location: Walker Co.,Texas | Registered: 05 September 2003Reply With Quote
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A 22 LR case hammered into place will fix it. dancing

A lot would depend of placement. Further from the tip an inlay like Hog Killer's would be harder to pull of. Further back a nice German silver or maybe brass inlay in a shape other than round would look good.

Or, ge a bullseye from Marlin and call it a Marlin. Big Grin




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Posts: 4869 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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z1r,

go to your room!

The diamond inlay, ala Winchester would look good; almost like you did it on purpose.

Rich
 
Posts: 23062 | Location: SW Idaho | Registered: 19 December 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Idaho Sharpshooter:

The diamond inlay, ala Winchester would look good; almost like you did it on purpose.

Rich


Yup. Or those shaped like a shield or badge.




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Posts: 4869 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Ok, full disclosure here-most of the suggestions made me want to vomit! Eeker no offense intended to anyone, just the way i feel about inlays. Here are a couple of different suggestions.

1. cut a piece from inside the barrel channel and use it to fill the hole. The plug does not even need to completely fill the hole. All you are concerned about is how it looks on the assembled action. Something 1/8" or even less will work perfectly. You can get a piece to very closely match the grain of the exterior of the stock this way.

2. this is a good trick for everyone who works with stocks. It was told to me by a true legend of the stockmaking world. Every stockmaker or wood worker knows that if you have a void of soem sort, you can mix sawdust from the wood and mix it with epoxy to fill the void. The problem with this is that the filled part will always be darker than the rest of the wood.

A way to fill the void and have it match the darkness of the rest of the wood is to use a different species of wood sawdust. if you are working with walnut, you can try mixing oak, hickory, ash, maple, etc. sawdust with epoxy or superglue and use that to fill the void. Experiement and find which sawdust/epoxy mixture most closely matches the wood you are shaping. This repair is not noticable by most people, even gun nuts.

I personally would do the first option on this stock, but the second is also a good way to fix it.
 
Posts: 2509 | Location: Kisatchie National Forest, LA | Registered: 20 October 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Marc_Stokeld:
Ok, full disclosure here-most of the suggestions made me want to vomit! Eeker


Didn't like my .22 lr idea, huh?

As ID said, at least an inlay looks like you did it on purpose. ALl these repairs, unless done by very capable craftsmen, will look like what they are, repairs.

I don't like inlays either but a good inlay looks better than a filled hole.




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Posts: 4869 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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When Hogkiller's rifle was rebuilt (Remington 30-S) with a barrel mounted sling stud, we considered cutting the forend back past the old sling stud hole and installing a 90 degree ebony tip. However, Keith wanted to retain the factory checkering and to cut the tip back would have cut into the checkering. Thus, the gunsmith went with an inlay similar to those on Winchester 1885 High Wall forends, which I think looks great, much better than a silly cartridge case head or a stick of wood. I'm surprised no one has mentioned gluing a compass in place.


NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS.
Shoot & hunt with vintage classics.
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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I had the same problem.....so I intend to cover it up by installing a supergrade style swivel stud.....



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Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by vapodog:
I had the same problem.....so I intend to cover it up by installing a supergrade style swivel stud.....

[/QUOT

Hey Vapo,

Didn't he take a swivel stud off for a barrel band?

Stephen
 
Posts: 538 | Location: Pacific Northwet | Registered: 14 August 2010Reply With Quote
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quote:
Hey Vapo,

Didn't he take a swivel stud off for a barrel band?

Yup....but in my case I want to maintain the swivel stud for an attachable shooting sticks!

Further the supergrade style protrudes quite a bit less than standard swivel studs.


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Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by fla3006:
I'm surprised no one has mentioned gluing a compass in place.


I was gonna but I didn't want to be responsible for a coronary. Big Grin




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Posts: 4869 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Whatever way it's done, except by complete stock replacement, it will have SOMEONE jumping up and down.

I've used almost all of the mentioned methods at some time or other...EXCEPT...the hammer and 22 case????

I liked the diamond or double diamond - stirling silver/gold animal figure and owner initials, rifle caliber case head and compass the best. Brownells dies and epoxy do wonders for making the inlay AND holding things on.

I NEVER was able to match colors with the wood shavings method so I let my father do that, but even with fine line striations to match grain structure, you could tell.

Yeah...I agree Rich...better yet...stand in the corner. Wink

Mostly tho' I just left the hole or the swivel stud in. That little hangy-down thingy was so useful in many other than original intended ways, it seemed a shame not to keep it.

The hole was also excellent for inserting a set screw as a barrel tuner if there was also a metal stud mount inside the wood.

Luck
 
Posts: 1338 | Registered: 19 January 2006Reply With Quote
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A mother of pearl inset is the way to go....


Mike

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What I have learned on AR, since 2001:
1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken.
2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps.
3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges.
4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down.
5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine.
6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle.
7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions.
8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA.
9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not.
10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact.
11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores.
12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence.
13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances.
 
Posts: 10181 | Location: Loving retirement in Boise, ID | Registered: 16 December 2003Reply With Quote
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If it is just a small hole the size of a screw you could try a bit of acraglass with the right amount of dye. If its too big though the lack of grain will stand out. The plug idea from under the bbl is a good one.



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Posts: 10190 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
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