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posted
Gentlemen,

We are planning to do carry out a new experiment.

On the effects of a damaged barrel crown on the accuracy of the rifle.

As luck would have it, we have brand new Sako S 491 rifle in 223 Remington, which its owner wishes to change the barrel to a new one chambered for the 223 Ackley.. He agreed to let us loose on his old barrel, and do as we wish with it.

I have already installed a Burris 6-24X scope on it, and will try to develop two loads for our tests.

One with a boat tail bullet and one with a flat base bullet.

Any suggestions on what sort of damage we should do to the crown would be appreciate it.

------------------
saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

 
Posts: 69143 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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I suggest you damage it in stages, and shoot after each stage to see how much -- if any -- the accuracy of the barrel has been harmed. First, you'd have to establish a benchmark by finding a load that consistently gives maximum accuracy from this rifle. Then load many rounds of that load. After that, go to work on the rifle:

1. See if you can damage the crown in some way with a cleaning rod. Then shoot the rifle to see whether accuracy has been affected.

2. Then take a hammer and drive a stone into the muzzle of the rifle. Then, after seeing that the stone is removed, shoot the rifle to see how accuracy has been affected.

3. Drive a tapered bolt or other metal object into the muzzle. Then remove it and shoot to see how accuracy has been affected.

4. Cut off 1/2 inch of the barrel with a hacksaw and then, without crowning the muzzle, shoot it to see how accuracy has been affected.

Perhaps someone can think of some more intermediate or even greater harmful steps to put the thing through. In any case, the interesting thing will be to shoot it at each stage to see how it has been affected. You will probably want to shoot at least three 5-shot groups after each stage of harming the muzzle so that you can get a good measurement of how much the harm has affected the accuracy of the rifle.

 
Posts: 5883 | Location: People's Republic of Maryland | Registered: 11 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Precision Shooting Magazine had an article on just this a few issues back, I will see if I can run it down. Norm Johnson did before and after tests with damaged crowns.

------------------
Currently in Exile on the Beautiful Olympic Peninsula of Washington State.

My Warden sometimes allows me to respond to email. NEW Address is rifles@earthlink.net

***********Jail Flash*******
Web site under construction: http:/home.earthlink.net/~rifles/

 
Posts: 1055 | Location: Real Sasquatch Country!!! I Seen 'Em! | Registered: 16 January 2001Reply With Quote
<Don G>
posted
Saeed,

I would cut it square and crown to start.(Groups)

Then cut the crown again at a 5 degree angle.(Groups)

Then square it again. (Groups)

Then take a diamond hone (or similar) tool and cut a groove deeper at the crown. (Groups)

Then hone down the adjacent land a couple thousandths. (Groups)

Then take a breather - you've earned it!

Don

 
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quote:
Originally posted by Saeed:
Gentlemen,

We are planning to do carry out a new experiment.

On the effects of a damaged barrel crown on the accuracy of the rifle.


May I suggest that the change in the point of impact also be recorded.

Of course this is due to the possibility that the crown is damaged on a hunting trip and not noticed until I get home.

JerryO

 
Posts: 231 | Location: MN. USA | Registered: 09 June 2000Reply With Quote
One of Us
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I wonder how much caliber would influnece the result.

For example,if we compared a 264 and a 458 the muzzle pressure would be far lower with the 458.

Perhaps this could be duplicated by testing the rifle with some very reduced loads "before" and "after"

Mike

 
Posts: 7206 | Location: Sydney, Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
<redleg155>
posted
Interesting undertaking...

I would suggest that as the test progresses, please take some close-up photos to accompany for results when finished.

The test may be somewhat misleading if the barrel is cut even a little and re-crowned at different stages because that will alter the harmonics of the barrel as you go. But, I will be looking forward to the results like many others.

redleg

 
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I would be interested in how a "lifle-like" damage affects precision and accuracy. LE270:s second suggestion is accordingly the one I would have suggested myself. If it could be done in a couple of steps, slight damage followed by more severe, this would be ideal.

To see the effect of "heavy" crowning and without compared to normal would also be interesting.

[This message has been edited by Wachtel (edited 12-30-2001).]

 
Posts: 544 | Location: Sweden | Registered: 27 October 2001Reply With Quote
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Saeed you might consider just damaging the crown in the usual manner crowns get damaged.
Cleanng rods, poking the mussle into gravel as if the hunter had stumbled etc.

------------------
NRA Life member

 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
<W. Woodall>
posted
Saeed,

A couple of good tests to test the effect of accuracy on a crown involve the release of the bullet and long term wear.

1. Release of the bullet.

With an angled tool, flair a single land. Shoot and note the accuracy. Do the same with another one. Remember to try different bullet types.

2. Long term wear.

Create a flat muzzle, no burrs or chamfers. Shoot >1000 rounds and then perfectly center the barrel and take ultra small facing cuts. This will show the wear movement of the rifling. Then, re-crown properly and note the accuracy change.

 
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Saeed... a couple of comments:

When a barrel is recrowned, it will normally have microscopic burrs on the lands. If you re-crown, you'll have to shoot a few to several rounds to clean these off, and let the barrel "settle down".

You are basically looking for a change in variation, and stat tests for that are notoriously weak. In a true 1 MOA gun, 95% of your groups will be between .5" and 1.5". For single, 5 shot groups, any group between those limits is indistinguishable from any other group that is also between the limits. You'll probably have to do 5-10 5 shot groups at each stage of destruction if you want to see smaller differences than that.

 
Posts: 2281 | Location: Layton, UT USA | Registered: 09 February 2001Reply With Quote
<bobshawn>
posted
Saeed __

You might consider browsing through H. E. Mann's "The Bullets Flight". It's old stuff; lead bullets and black powder, but some of it might be applicable. Mann worked with damaged bullets as opposed to damaged crowns.

Interesting experiment.

Robert

 
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After thinking this over a bit, I want to add to what I suggested above.

First of all, I suggest mounting the scope with some brand of quick release rings so that the scope can be removed for some of the tests so that scope damage will not result and not be the source of inaccuracy. My choice would be Leupold QR rings and bases -- they allow the scope to be removed and reinstalled with no change in zero point.

Here are some more suggestions for things that could be done with the barrel of the gun (after each of these, the rifle should be shot for several 5-shot groups for accuracy tests):

a. I've read the claim here many times that improper cleaning ruins barrels. I'm not convinced that those claims are true. So I suggest a concerted effort to ruin the crown of the barrel through rough or improper cleaning.

b. For another test, I suggest dropping the rifle (scope removed) muzzle-first onto a concrete walkway from a height of 3 to 6 feet (one to two meters).

c. Run the muzzle into mud containing sand and stones, and then shake only some of it off, so that some sand and possibly even some small stones remain in the barrel (but not plugging the barrel so that the barrel isn't actually obstructed).

d. (Maybe this should be one of the earlier stages). Put some fabric or thread into the muzzle, such as might happen if the gun were in a case that "sheds" and it were not examined after removing it from the case.

e. Rig up a sling that allows the rifle to swing back and forth like a pendulum, and have the muzzle of the rifle hit into a heavy steel plate for a number of swings. This would be designed to duplicate what could happen to a rifle that rides in a rifle rest in a vehicle for a long time.

f. Figure out how to have the barrel rust inside -- but only at the last 4 to 6 inches at the muzzle -- and then shoot it with the rust in it.

[This message has been edited by LE270 (edited 12-31-2001).]

 
Posts: 5883 | Location: People's Republic of Maryland | Registered: 11 March 2001Reply With Quote
<Tom Blimkie>
posted
I think it would be interesting to take a centre-punch and peen a small hole about 1/8 or 1/4" off to one side of the bore. This is where I think most barrel abuse from dropping etc. would occur. Would this manage to "flare"enought to affect accuracy?
 
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Ruin it the same way I ruined my very first rifle-clean it from the muzzle end with a three piece rod. Ouch. Even though that was 18 years ago, i still get sick about it!
 
Posts: 78 | Location: Johnson City, TN | Registered: 29 October 2001Reply With Quote
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I would second the follwing above mentioned suggestions,

-Cut or file crown un-evenly.

-Rust in last 1 inch of barrel and shoot.

-Damage one land at muzzle and see effect.

Note change in point of impact with these destructions.


Saad

 
Posts: 271 | Location: Pakistan | Registered: 28 July 2001Reply With Quote
<RENRAF>
posted
Saeed, I suggest you send the rifle to me. I will take a short walk while coyote hunting, and I will surely trip and drive the muzzle into something hard enough to damage the crown.

------------------
"The greatest griefs are those we cause ourselves"
-Sophicles-

 
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<RENRAF>
posted
Serriously, I would recommed that the muzzle be damaged first in a less than controlled fasion, say a drop of two feet onto a concrete floor at 90 degrees. I would then shhot a group to compare to a known good group. Then I would repeat the process from incrementally higher levels. It would be interesting to see how soon the rifle were rendered unusable.

------------------
"The greatest griefs are those we cause ourselves"
-Sophicles-

 
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<I Need Guns>
posted
I think that doing it in stages is the best way so that you can get the most data from this one peace. I think that there are many good sugestons hear the ones I'm most intoresed in are:
rust
minor scarches
thread in muzzle
minor scarches for sand and or gravel
dropped on hard thing, for this I think that it shouldn't be cement, it is to uniform. A ruff rock or assfalt would be better. Dropping from progressivly higher up is a grait idea.
 
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Dub the last inch of the bore with some oil and see what it changes.

Remove the rifling on the last inch of barrel, see what it does.

Like Shikaree said, an uneven-crown test will be neat.

Gosh...all the things you can do to an unwanted barrel.

 
Posts: 638 | Location: O Canada! | Registered: 21 December 2001Reply With Quote
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I would drop it into gravel and try to naturaly damage the crown. I would then bore the mussel out with a shallow angle cone to simulate cleaning rod damage. These are the ones I would recomend.
Ray
 
Posts: 147 | Location: Maryland, USofA | Registered: 08 November 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by redleg155:
I would suggest that as the test progresses, please take some close-up photos to accompany for results when finished.

I agree strongly with this suggestion.

You might also take videos of the processes of successive stages of damaging the thing.

[This message has been edited by LE270 (edited 01-01-2002).]

 
Posts: 5883 | Location: People's Republic of Maryland | Registered: 11 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Oh Boy, you guys don't ask much do you?

It is like the old saying goes: "Give an old lady an inch, and she wants a foot!"

My intention was to see what effect what we classify as normal damage to the crown might do.

Like damage from cleaning and dropping the rifle, rust and so on.

Walter is due back in 5 days time, he is the perfect candidate to ruin this barrel. In the meantime, I will develop a good load for it while I have the workshop to myself without him being around to offer his usual helpful hints!

------------------
saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

 
Posts: 69143 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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Up here in Canada, EH, we see a lot of old rifles with barrels chopped off, usually with a hack saw!! & usually crooked. In fact I have a Sav 99 in 25-35 hacked off to 22" very crooked, surprisingly it shoots very,very good go figure? A test like this would be very interesting too, however with suggestions you have a barrel about 68" would be needed!!
 
Posts: 302 | Location: Ontario, Canada | Registered: 21 September 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
There are only three ways a crown can be bad...and combinations of those, of course.

It can be out of square with the bore. (Angled) or it can have material eccentrically removed OR it can have barrel material intruding in on it.

The NRA, Aberdeen Proving grounds and most gun writers, living and dead, have done all these various test and published the results, but its still fun.

I had a bench gun that needed the crown freshened so I messed it up some first.

A center punch mark .100 from a land will throw bullets away from it but still a good group.

A damaged (removed) land corner made bigger round groups. The amount of damage it took to tell a definite difference in groug size (from .3s ), could not be seen with the naked eye. This explains group creep in button rifled barrels, I think.

I've never bothered with an angled crown since the only way it can happen on a lathe is by having an eccentric bore and since almost 100% of ALL factory bores *are* eccentric and they do OK. Unless the angle is severe, the only effect is an off center group.

I cut all target crowns with hand lapped corners and forget about it.

 
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I would really be interested as somone else mentioned to see the effects of rough cleaning procedures of which at some time many of us have been guilty off particulary when starting out in our chosen hobbie.

------------------

 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Jack Belk,

Welcome to Saeeds site.

Again, we find ourselves on the same side of the fence. The law of averages continues to work

Crowns are like telescopes. A lot can be wrong and no one would ever notice in the field. In fact some people would not even notice on a target.

Do you think if all else is equal, that a cartridge with lower muzzle pressure would show less change from muzzle damage.

I had not thought of that until Saeeds post and my post above.

Mike

 
Posts: 7206 | Location: Sydney, Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Gentlemen,

An update on this experiment.

I am afraid we have to start all over again, because I never had the time to finish it earlier, and in the meantime, the gentleman who owned the rifle wanted his rifle finished.

I did finish it just before we went to Africa, after I have installed a new fluted, stainless barrel chambered for the 223 Ackley.

He has not stopped talking about his new rifle, to the extent I have told him if he calls me one more time to sings its praise, I will let Walter loose on it [Big Grin]

Anyway, As we are always swapping barrels on rifles here, I thought I will sacrifice a brand new factory barrel for the benefit of hopefully learning something new.

I will try to follow some of the suggestions made earlier. By basically shooting the rifle as we intended before, with boat tail and flat base bullets, then damage the crown gradually and see what effects that might cause.

I will keep you all updated on this.
 
Posts: 69143 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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Before you start testing damaged crowns, why not test different crowns, then test each crown with different damages? I would stay within normal types of damage.

Later....

[ 07-09-2002, 22:46: Message edited by: Mauserkid ]
 
Posts: 297 | Location: Stevensville MT. | Registered: 21 May 2002Reply With Quote
<Powderman>
posted
IMHO, there are two things you could do to simulate the conditions you find in the real world quite often.

1. Get a long one-piece stainless rod. Then, clean with gusto with brush and patch, and without guide, from the muzzle. Scrub and thump away. After each cleaning session, fire a group and note the variances.

2. Get a rod that comes apart. Again, clean with gusto from the muzzle. Fire a group.

3. After recrowning, remove the scope. Put a sling on it, leaving the top loose. From a standing position, and while standing on dirt, rocks, and concrete, let the rifle fall backwards to simulate the effects of a sling letting go. Let it hit muzzle first.

4. Stand the rifle muzzle first on the ground, preferably in rocky soil. Let it sit there while you have a conversation of at least ten minutes.

5. With scope on, chuck it muzzle first into the back of a vehicle, preferably so that the muzzle hits a hard surface.

I think that this will pretty much cover the spectrum of normal damage.

OH, YEAH!!!! Try this one, too.......

6. Prepare to clean the rifle. Drop the brush to the ground. Without cleaning it off, clean energetically from the muzzle.

7. Also, chuck a metal bristled brush into a drill. Clean from the muzzle, rotating at various speeds.
 
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<Don Martin29>
posted
Simulate a "kitchen sink" crown job. On a proven shooter just do a hack saw cut off, file it square and then crown the muzzle with a brass screw and some ordinary compound or common abrasive.

In other words see if such a crown will be satisfactory.

You might do this after doing some "damage" that proves it will no longer shoot.
 
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<chevota>
posted
I agree with the natural field damage. Like dropping in gravel/rocks, or the damage caused by firing with a little bit of dirt in the tip. Also have wondered about the effect of one or more damaged lands allowing gas on one side to escape prematurely.

I assume you are going to damage, cut/re-crown, repeatedly for a series of tests?
 
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Administrator
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Gentlemen,

Our idea is to simulate what might happen to a hunting rifle during its life.

As some of you suggested, we will damage the crown, with both hard objects and through cleaning from the muzzle.

We are not going to check the merits of different crowns, as this rifle is not accurate enough for us to be able to arrive at a reasonable answer.

We will keep you al posted of our progress.
 
Posts: 69143 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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Picture of John Y Cannuck
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If you have lots of cash to throw arround, I'd like to see if rifles with faster twist rates for the caliber are less likely to be affected by light crown damage.
Spinning faster should tighten the circle made by damage on one side of the crown to a bullet in flight, on the other hand, maybe it would tumble more easily being over stabilized?
 
Posts: 872 | Location: Lindsay Ontario Canada | Registered: 14 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of John Y Cannuck
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Is land damage more harmfull than groove damage? Certainly land damage would be the most common.
 
Posts: 872 | Location: Lindsay Ontario Canada | Registered: 14 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of jeffeosso
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cleaning from the crown? you mean that all the autoloaders in the shooting matches have ruined accuracry? No 10/22 can shoot groups? No garands or m-1a/m14? I would suggest this be the single test of ruining a barrel. To put this to bed once and for all.
I have specific thoughts on this, while i do clean from the receiver. How can aluminum damage steel, other than build up? alum'ing, rather than leading. A steel rod, now there'w a bad idea, at least if it's harder steel.
I would REALLY love to see someone take a 308 bolt gun that shot nice groups, and clean the devil out of it, from the muzzle, and measure the changes in groups. A writer tried to do this, and gave up after 3000 rounds. If the al is removed, it didnt damage it.
now watch the flames fly on this, but please look up the materials and the guns related. I think that a steel rod would do it, but I dont think that you can hurt one with an al rod.
jeffe
 
Posts: 40030 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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I hope I'm not too late to the party but how about just putting something over the muzzle like elecrical tape and shoot through a new piece each time to see how it effects groups.
 
Posts: 968 | Location: British Columbia | Registered: 29 May 2002Reply With Quote
Administrator
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Gentlemen,

Here is a photo of the muzzle as it was originally.

 -

We fired 10 5-shot groups, 5 with the Sierra 52 Match King bullet, which is aboat tail design, and 5 with a 52 grain Bill Brawand bench rest bullet, which is a flat base.

52 MK

0.741
0.892
1.176
0.970
1.087
Average - 0.9734

52 Brawand

1.061
0.983
0.891
0.968
0.960
Average - 0.9726

I then removed a small chunk from the muzzle end with a Dremel tool.

 -

This piece was removed corresponding to about the 8 o'clock position on the exit of the muzzle.

I will shoot the same loads as before, and let you know how it works out.
 
Posts: 69143 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
<Don G>
posted
Saeed,

Wow it hurts to look at that! [Smile]

Don
 
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Don,

We are sitting here scratching our heads now.

I have shot only two groups so far after the damage was done to the muzzle, and both groups look much better that the rifle shot before?? [Confused]

I will see if this trend continues.
 
Posts: 69143 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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