The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Plastic Stock Trigger Guard Screw Stripped HoleGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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A neighbor has a plastic stocked youth 308 (savage) The rear trigger guard screw (which looks like a wood screw except its black) has almost completely stripped the hole in the stock. I assume the right fix is to make sure the bottom of the hole is blocked off and put some epoxy in the hole and apply release agent to the screw and the trigger guard and gently tighten down so the triggerguard and screw are fully seated. Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | ||
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Try a piece of a round double ended toothpick. Hip | |||
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That sounds like a very reasonable and permanent fix. I'd probably get by with the toothpick fix until I got sick of it then I'd fix it right, the way you are describing it. | |||
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Any epoxy type product squirted down in there to fill the hole and allowed to cure will work. I'd probably prefer not to put release agent on the screw but let it tap itself as you put the stock back on. So the steps are: 1. Pour or smush epoxy into the void and let cure. Cover hole with tape and set up stock so that the epoxy is using gravity to cure correctly in the spot you want. 2. The next day reassemble the rifle normally (if it requires a longer cure time then wait that length of time). | |||
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Don't be afraid to use a lot, so you have the mechanical advantage where the epoxy is acting as a piece of stock from behind the hole. Using a small amount may not allow for the epoxy to bond to the plastic. It might not bond anyway. | |||
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Why do anything? That screw is just to keep the trigger guard from falling off when you remove the action. Otherwise, the center guard screw holds it on. If you are just trying to keep it from falling out, then yes, epoxy it in place, permanently. | |||
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I would be tempted to fill the hole with epoxy, then drill and tap it after it cured. Is there a downside to doing that? TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
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Yes, creating more work. It is just a wood screw. | |||
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Use a bigger wood screw. I think I used a drywall screw once. | |||
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Oops, my bad, missed the wood screw description... TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
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stuff the hole with 0000 steel wool, the put screw in. should stick just fine Remember, forgivness is easier to get than permission. | |||
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The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Plastic Stock Trigger Guard Screw Stripped Hole
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