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Moderator |
Called around at a friend of a friends house the other day to look at a rifle for sale.. This guy had a rifle in a cleaning cradle on his bench and was cleaning the bore... To do this he had taken and old cleaning rod and removed the roller ball handle and simply chucked the rod into an electric drill. Using a bore guide he inserted the rod in the normal way and then simple let rip with the drill as he pushed the rod back on forth up the bore...He was using normal brass brushes....the gunk was clean out using a patch'n jagon a normal cleaning rod...He reckoned that this was far easier than scrubing bores the normal way and looking down the bores of a couple of rifles he he they certainly looked in good condition...So what is every thoughts on this for use on say an "average" hunting rifle rather than some fancy bench rest gun??? | ||
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one of us |
That's a Crime!!! | |||
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One of Us |
Pete E - PASS on any gun this guy might be selling! I would suspect that a bore-scope inspection would show considerable wear in the barrel. What is left of the lands I am sure does not resemble that of a new gun. If everything else is perfect on the gun and you really want it, simply back out the cost of having the gun re-barreled. Creativity with cleaning techniques does far more damage than simply shooting the gun and not cleaning. Some folks just don't have a clue on how to take care of firearms. | |||
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one of us |
I hope it wasn't an expensive gun he was cleaning! ------------------ | |||
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<allen day> |
I used to shake my over the "Bore Snake" practitioners, but this Black & Decker guy really takes the cake....... AD | ||
Moderator |
To be honest, I thought it must be bad for the bore,kinda makes you shudder just thinking about it. But having looked through the barrels of a couple of his rifles with the naked eye they seemed fine. After wiping the oil from them, they actually looked pristine! Obviously what they looked like through a bore scope may be a diifferent matter!Just wondered if it were a common practice or not.... | |||
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One of Us |
I have been told that a bronze brush can not harm your bore as it is softer than the bullets we fire down and is not travelling as fast even with a drill attached. So what is the truth of the matter, I tend to use brass brushs with my bores if I fire 10 shots I give it 2-3 passes. If this bloke dmages his with the drill would we all over time be damaging our bores by using bronze brushs. ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
Bronze brush's do scratch the bore, it has been proven with a borescope. But there is a Huge difference in pulling a bore brush thru the barrel, and spinning one with a drill! | |||
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One of Us |
PC - Bullets and brushes ride the bore (twist). Drillboy is working his brush across the lands. Two very different actions. In addition, Drillboy is working fouling with his brush making the fouling act as an abrasive. I am sure his barrels were squeaky clean, devoid of any fouling and devoid of any sharp rifling. If this was such a great idea, the precision barrel makers would quit pulling lead slugs through their barrels in order to lap the lands. Using a drill would save many hours - that is "IF" it were a good idea. | |||
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one of us |
Doesn't matter how nice the bore looks like, but how accurate your friend's rifles are. Safety, accuracy and life of the barrel is what cleaning is for. Though brass is softer than steel, high speed rotation might give the brush enough force to displace metal on the bore surface(i.e. the bore can be "polished shiny" by the brush and the rifling slighty rounded. [This message has been edited by Pyrotek (edited 02-04-2002).] | |||
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One of Us |
I ask the question then should we be ever using bronze brushes at all if they scratch the bore ?. Should I stop using them for my rifles. You have got me worried that I may have ruined my barrells Regards PC. ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
quote: A gunwriter and gunsmith here in Sweden recommends steel wool for cleaning a rifle bore... I would never do that, but bronze is O�K. Fritz | |||
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one of us |
PC, "Normal" cleaning with brass brush is fine because the brush runs along with the bore and there's less passage. "Innovative" drill cleaning let the brush run across rifling and buff the bore with hundreds or maybe even thousands of passage per minute. IMO, I wouldn't clean a rifle with a way I don't dare to use to clean my ears. [This message has been edited by Pyrotek (edited 02-04-2002).] | |||
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One of Us |
Excuse my ingnorance pyrotek but what is meant by less passage?. Do you use bronze brushs or prefer Nylon, Nylon does not feel like it would clean anything. Thankyou for your help. ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
Steel is harder than brass so then how could a brass brush scratch a steel bore...nylon brushes are ment to be used with amonia based cleaners that eat up brass brushes...steel twist brushes will damage a bore...Cleaning rods damage more bores than brushes...One pass with a bore snake equals 60 passes with a patch, how can that be bad...Cleaning 101. ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
I work at a plant that extrudes plastic. The main body of the extruder, ironically called a barrel, is made from the same steel as gun barrels. These barrels are cleaned with a brass brush wrapped with a brass mesh, then chucked into an air drill and polished clean. GSF1200 said it had been proven that bronze brushes scratch bores. I find this hard to beleive since bronze is simply an alloy of brass and tin. When visually inspecting with a boroscope, it is difficult to judge depth. Unless the suspect barrel was cut in half and the "scratches" measured, I wouldn't believe it. What was assumed to be scratches was probably small amounts of brass embedding themselves in small pores in the bore. I recently picked up a beater 30-30 that had literally 30 years of build up in the bore. I could not push a jag through the bore at all. After several days of soaking the bore with various solvents, I used a 30 cal then a 45 cal brass brush in a drill on the lowest speed setting. I wrapped the cleaning rod with one layer of electrical tape to protect the bore. Both brushes were saturated with a product called Simichrome. The bore is nice and shiny, and the jag has no problem passing. It shoots as well as I would expect a 30-30 to shoot. | |||
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one of us |
PC, 1 passage means the brush pass the bore once. I use copper brushes to brush, but I wrap patches around nylon brushes to clean the bore as the nylon brushes have thicker hair, won't pierce through patches as you work it in the barrel. | |||
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one of us |
quote: I don't have an opinion on how best to clean rifle bores. But I do want to point out that although it is true, as Atkinson says, that steel is harder than brass, nevertheless something that is less hard can still abrade what is harder. Leather, for example, is not as hard as steel, yet leather strops are routinely used to sharpen steel bladed razors. | |||
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one of us |
LE270, I'm going to sit on the fence, and split the middle. Bronze can scratch, but not enough to make a difference. With enough practice like this, I can become a politician........ Dutch. | |||
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one of us |
quote: This is a thread that does get one to think things over! Well then, here's my question / thought: So how does running water, in a river for example, erode rocks? Granted it does take time but the water does wear down the rock. And water is certainly a lot "softer" than rock. I think that some of the rock's erosion can be explained by the water dissolving minerals, etc. but I don't think that accounts for all of the erosion of a rock by running water. I claim no expertise in this. I'm not a geologist. - Bob F. | |||
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<Don Martin29> |
quote: We are getting sharp with all this practice! | ||
one of us |
Can bronze brushes scratch a rifle barrel? Judge for yourself!
Image provided by Greg Walley. He is writing an article for Precision Shooting "on the effects of cleaning and throat erosion in 416 SS barrels." | |||
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one of us |
you can blow a photo up a couple of million times and find that a feather will do some damage....Thats scary stuff when you start looking at bores under magnification...Anyone who has polished steel knows how tender it is on the surface. You can stratch it with your fingernail. ------------------ | |||
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<bearguide> |
Are you guys really THAT anal when it comes to cleaning? All my bbls must be complete junk, though accuracy proves otherwise. Perhaps cleaning too frequently is more of a problem. | ||
one of us |
Noticed something interesting? The scratches are drastically different before and after rifling starts, before the rifling, the scratches are more, shorter, deeper, usually come with a deep hole, and directions are more random. After rifling starts, there are only few long, shallow streaks running parallel on the land. Also notice the very upper-right corner of the photo, looks like either bubbles in the steel or the brass needle are "stabbing" into What I theorize is that after the brush pass through throat area the brush needle bends backward, since there's more brush needle come into contact with bore wall, force is diverted out, less or no damage. Just about when the brush is going to get into the riflings, some brush needles at the tip of the brush happened to be pointing to the sloped area of throat, this angle allows the brush needle to deliver enough force to the surface, thus there's more damage in the throat area. If manufacturers make their brushes with brush hair bent slightly backwards to ease the conflict between throat and brush hair, there would be no problems. Ordinary brush : _||||||||_ more optimized brush : | |||
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one of us |
Hi Pete, sure he wasn't reboring it!! griff | |||
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one of us |
To acheive a certain finish on steel before rebluing, I used to polish the steel by hand up to a satin finish and then burnish the surface with a bronze wire wheel. There is no way I would spin a bronze brush in a rifled barrel to clean it. A smooth bore is different. ------------------ | |||
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<heavy varmint> |
I wonder if he ever reversed the drill to get out what may be hiding on the other side of the lands. | ||
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