Our own Kerry Stottlemyer fabricated the scope bases for Talley rings. Kerry also tigged the tang as I'm using a Kiff 3 POS safety. I have a new Kiff bolt that Dan Armstrong is installing a bolt handle like my Pierce receivered rifle.
I've got to find some nice wood for it.



I'm real pleased with Kerry's work and promptness.
You might check with him on custom scope bases and other work.
Butch

Butch,
I have 2 40X-BR receivers. Do you know anyone that could make the cuts to turn one into a rimfire receiver? I have never examined a rimfire stripped so I do no know what the locking shoulder cuts look like.
I want to experiment with a .22 WMR with a non-SAAMI chamber.

It would be cheaper to buy a CMP 40X rimfire receiver from the CMP I think. The rimfire bolts lock up on the rear ring and it would take a long solid carbide boring bar to cut the lug abuttments.
Butch

Butch
Did the tang get extremely hard in the heat affected zone?

I haven't put a file to it. You may send Kerry a PM.
Butch

It's harder then the surrounding metal but ti can still be worked with HSS tools. It will file and cut good just a little harder then normal.

The key to welding on any piece of tool steel (other then O-1, W-1, A-2, D-2) is keeping the interpass temperatures low. Meaning don't put too much heat into the part too fast. Preheating and post heating are also a big part of preventing over hardening. The weld will almost always be a touch harder then the base metal but the above tips are a few things you can do to prevent it.

PS Thanks for the kind words Butch

quote:

Originally posted by kcstott:
The key to welding on any piece of tool steel (other then O-1, W-1, A-2, D-2) is keeping the interpass temperatures low. Meaning don't put too much heat into the part too fast. Preheating and post heating are also a big part of preventing over hardening. The weld will almost always be a touch harder then the base metal but the above tips are a few things you can do to prevent it.

What he said, and PLENTY of it!

This is a major downfall area for most welders, they have little understanding of the necessity for good temp control.
Regards, Joe

Butch, maybe it is just me but I can only see 1 of the 3 pictures?

I would love to see the tang.

Never had photos disappear like that before.



Butch

quote:

Originally posted by J.D.Steele:

quote:

Originally posted by kcstott:
The key to welding on any piece of tool steel (other then O-1, W-1, A-2, D-2) is keeping the interpass temperatures low. Meaning don't put too much heat into the part too fast. Preheating and post heating are also a big part of preventing over hardening. The weld will almost always be a touch harder then the base metal but the above tips are a few things you can do to prevent it.

What he said, and PLENTY of it!

This is a major downfall area for most welders, they have little understanding of the necessity for good temp control.
Regards, Joe

I don't want to HiJack the thread but just a little bit of elaboration.
O-1, W-1, A-2, D-2, S-7, And the like are not in my classification of a welder friendly material.

Since these are oil, water, or air hardening steels as soon as you get them above the critical temp they are hard as a whores heart. A-2, D-2, S-7 and a few others can be annealed. I never had luck annealing O-1.

Now with 41XX series steel or 8620 Pre heating for two hours at 450 Degrees F and post heating for a wee bit longer will prevent most problems of a hard weld. This is of course if you use the proper filler (ER70S6)

And there are more pictures of Butch's action on my web site