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I'm in the process of learning how to TIG weld and would appreciate any recommendations for how to plug scope base screw holes in a M98 Mauser. The holes are all through holes. Techniques I'm aware of include drilling out the threads, enlarging the top of the hole with a tapered countersink for better access to the hole, and fitting a drive-fit plug in the holes then welding around the plugs. I'm concerned about welding through the bottom of the holes which would cause trouble with bolt travel and barrel threads. Please let me know how you plug screw holes. Many thanks. | ||
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I just thread in a screw flush with the bottom and top, then melt the top of it into the base metal. I do make a little chamfer in it. I do not try to melt all the way down; that creates more problems than it solves. Also if you melt through a receiver ring, you are using way too much amperage. As you are finding out, TIG welding is like flying a helicopter; takes three appendages to do it. | |||
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For this, I made up a brass insert that fits into the action in place of the bolt. Then I have a copper plate that fits the inside of the receiver ring tightly. From there, countersink the top, fill the hole in. Not for barreled actions, but it's ok on unfitted ones. Keep the action cold, use heat stop paste. Or freeze the action in a block of ice and do your welding. Or use the filler-screw method as outlined above-it's the safer method for barreled actions. | |||
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No need to plug a hole to weld it up ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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No but I usually don't want to melt it all the way through, in most cases. | |||
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I'm sure you don't ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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I have collected a paycheck for mucho years running all sorts of wire and stick, big and small. TIG is a whole different animal. That helicopter analogy is appropriate. | |||
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plug the front of the action and put a small hose into the bore and flood the interior with argon this will deepen the flow of the filler | |||
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Nice thought but action screw holes aren't very deep and IMO don't require extra shield gas ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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If you insist on plugging any hole be sure and cover said plug completely with weld and don't just run a ring around it. ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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Without a plug in the rear bridge holes which are quite shallow, what precautions are necessary to keep the weld out of the inside of the action. You'll have to excuse me for a question that would seem obvious to an experienced welder. Thanks everyone for your replies. | |||
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IF & WHEN you are pulling carbon from the parent material,you are pulling temper that can not be duplicated again. (purge is your only option to refute it) IF you want complete penetration a plasma/key hole process is your method. Simple physics,any edge will flow prior to the parent(less mass). Leave your filler/plug .020"-.030" proud on the top side & that will eliminate any filler requirement. Running filler,turntable,contact control takes 4 appendages. | |||
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Wolfram Malukker-
That would be the most hillbilly/darwin award attempt that I've ever heard of. | |||
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Roger, just put a screw in the hole first and melt the top of it into the base metal. (cut off the head first) Let's keep it simple. . These guys are experts; I am not an expert at anything, and have proven that a 12 year old girl could fill a hole. | |||
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Ok I am going to add my two cents worth. I have found tig welding is really easy or at least not that hard. I taught myself to tig weld as there was no one around that could or would help. So when filling hole you might want to practice a little first. Drill some holes in a piece of tubing and use some of the methods listed here to see what works best for you. I put a screw in the hole and leave it proud of the base metal and hit it with the tip you can lightly chamfer the hole first if you wish. Normally I would not use filler rod unless the hole is pretty large... Thats my 2 cents  Never rode a bull, but have shot some. NRA life member NRA LEO firearms instructor (retired) NRA Golden Eagles member | |||
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Best to do a full weld repair on holes in the rear bridge of a Mauser. Countersink the hole, back the hole with copper shaped to the profile of the guide way then weld the hole out using filler wire. The weld metal won't stick to the copper. You have to belt the amps into it initially, then back off as you come out. Do some test runs on some scrap first, like lots. You should end up with a full penetration repair that can be re-drilled & tapped if need be. On the front ring I set it up in the mill, drill out the thread, turn up a parallel plug a few thou oversize tapered out slightly at the head. Drive it in with the quill, it will lock up on the taper super tight. Take care not to make it too long of course. Cut it off just proud, peen it over slightly then flush off. Again do lots of test runs first on scrap. Good luck. | |||
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You don't have to weld them at all. Just put a screw in them with some loctite (don't impinge the barrel threads), cut off leaving a little proud, peen with hammer, file flush. If hole is stripped, take it out to an 8-40 and ditto. Russ Gould - Whitworth Arms LLC BigfiveHQ.com, Large Calibers and African Safaris Doublegunhq.com, Fine English, American and German Double Rifles and Shotguns VH2Q.com, Varmint Rifles and Gear | |||
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The backer method that Metal describes is the easy and correct way to weld through thickness. It works best if you have a pedal, or finger control since you can back off the amps to finish the weld. Filling with a screw and then melting the head down as the filler is the method, I think, most use. that is how I do it since it is simple and I am usually just filling extra holes. The method Russ describes is a good quick fix and works best on jobs that need no blueing, or just a touch up with cold blue. If you need to blue the whole thing, then welding is better. The peened head will often bleed blueing salts after blueing, or a ring of rust will constantly form if rust blueing. Just what I have learned. I am not an expert in the gun arts. Jeremy | |||
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Do it all the time. Works a treat, but a bit messy. | |||
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Interesting thread. The thing that stands out to me is that there are a range of fixes, from hillbilly, to farmer, to gunsmith, to expert tig, to nuclear scientist tig that all work, more or less okay. Goes to show that what I've always been told about gunsmithing is true: Gunsmithing isn't on the precision end of any of the skills it uses, but requires mastery of the low end of a lot of different specialty trades. I'm in the middle on this one. My background is professionally trained in welding, but I do something else for a living. I'd thread in a screw just slightly proud of the top and flush with the bottom, and tig it in, making sure to puddle the whole thing, not just around the edges. Then, file flush and refinish. | |||
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