Regarding the Serbian 1924 from my stock thread... The bolt had a tight spot at about 20* up from the bottom upon closing and opening. IT is almost like the lugs are set back, but they're not. IF is slick without he closing piece. The cocking piece is getting partial spring compression upon closing the bolt. This seems to cause the hitch. IT has a modern override trigger and the cocking piece wear has been welded on by another. Before I start randomly polishing and guessing, anyone have good place to start?

The rifle was a project from a gunsmithing school in the 1960s and is is overall nice shape and has not been fired at all after the work.

Sounds to me like the rifle needs the attention of a component smith...But...I'd try for a bit more overtravel for starters

I am the most competent gunsmith I have access to in my area.

Here are some picture and a video. There are mauser gurus on the board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xhhc...ci/DSCN9663.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r8cg...l7/DSCN9666.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4fj...j7/DSCN9667.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f4ov...hz/DSCN9668.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x43b...fn/DSCN9672.MP4?dl=0

Remove all the guts and start piece by piece putting them back in. First with the bare bolt.
Often overlooked, the firing pin safety lugs drag on the inside; layout dye and check them. Install the spring last.
Cocking pieces are supposed to have some firing pin spring compression on closing; the 98 is not totally a cock on opening.
But a systematic trouble shooting plan will avoid guessing.

take the trigger off first ...

All good ideas so far.

I would try it out of the stock also.

It works smoothly with the trigger removed.

?? The trigger is a Sako over ride type. The angle of the part the engages the striker is 45* relative to the bore. That seems wrong to me. The striker surface that engages the trigger is 90* relative to the bore. Shouldn't they be matching angles?

Could the 45* angle be causing excessive force pushing the striker upward?

That is it!

When I push the striker down it works smoothly

What can I do to fix that?

Get rid of the Sako trigger. That 45• angle on the sear exerts an upward force on the bolt and causes the bolt to bind. Had same experience a few years ago.

I'll do that. I'll get a new cocking piece too.

Yes.

I took the Sako trigger apart. The sear is to complicated to make easily. Timney triggers are scarce right now. I'll wait until they are back in stock.

Or?? I was able to locate a NECG trigger. Any comments on them?

The NECG triggers are Recknagel. They are excellent triggers.