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New firing pin assembly for a 700 along with
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Picture of SempreElk
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a new Xmark Pro trigger. I am planning on changing the ISS assembly on my BDL and replacing it with a Gretan unit. Then I am going to have a Remington authorized gunsmith install an X Mark pro. Should I have him install the trigger first and then I swap out the pin or should I send it to them for a trigger after I install the pin? Are these triggers that much better then the regular 700 trigger to be worth the hassle of sending it to a factory authorized gunsmith?
 
Posts: 1779 | Location: Southeast | Registered: 31 March 2003Reply With Quote
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I do agree with the pin swap, I have done several of my 700's with the David Tubb speedlock versions. As to the Rem 700 trigger when properly adjusted is among the very best, save your money or go Jewel.






Member NRA, SCI- Life #358 28+ years now!
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Posts: 3611 | Location: LV NV | Registered: 22 October 2002Reply With Quote
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I'd do the Gretan switch first, then have a trigger installed.
I have a Gretan in my one and only Rem 700..Grins I then installed a Timney trigger.

Don




 
Posts: 5798 | Registered: 10 July 2004Reply With Quote
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Tannel will re-work your current 700 trigger for about 45bucks, get the pin from him and have him bush the bolt and turn the F/P to fit. That system is the cats ass, short of putting a Jewel on it with the same mods. He can get them breaking at around 20oz and up. About %150 for everything. Gre-tan rifles. He turns small jobs like that quick
 
Posts: 416 | Registered: 21 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Uh....since I am kinda new at this...what is the advantage of replacing the firing pin and having the bolt bushed?


'I pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States of America and to the republic for which it stands, one nation under God, indivisable, with liberty and justice for all.'
 
Posts: 171 | Location: Eastern North Carolina | Registered: 29 March 2007Reply With Quote
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Usually when they replace the pin they go to a light weight pin. This reduces time from the time the sear releases the pin and it hits the primer. (locktime). Less time less chance for movement.

The bushing is installed for several reason. To insure the pin strikes in the same spot dead center of the primer, reduces drag, SHOULD give most consistant ignition. Since the gap is smaller around the pin the primer cratering is reduced and most then load to a higher pressure. When most people used the 700 action for benchrest it was done all the time. Custom actions used by most now are built so tight it is not necessary.

Many people go to the expense trying to get the most accuracy. For the majority of the shooters this is like getting your car engine blueprinted to drive around town. For me I would spend my $$ on other things.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I agree with Ramrod. I had mine done like that when he put in a Sako extractor. I already had the pin assmebly. The spring does not drag on the bolt body, with his unit. The bushed pin will not let the primer flow.(Do not ask how I know). Like Paul stated keeps everything dead center and gives some support to the front of the pin.

I doubt anyone will get any improvments from putting an aftermarket pin in, as far as improved accuracy goes. One of those makes me feel better things like deburring flasholes and uniforming pockets. I operate like this, we came this far might as well keep going. LOL sometimes works sometimes it does not.

I suggested this because for the price of the pin and the new trigger the old one could be tuned up and the F/P would be in the best possible set up. IMHO for probably a few bucks less.
 
Posts: 416 | Registered: 21 December 2005Reply With Quote
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