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Glass bed Bottom Metal??
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Hello Fellas, I have a Win M70 barreled action and I am about ready to receive my new Manners Stock which already has Pillars already installed so I am almost good to go!

I am going to skim-bed the recoil lug and tang but I am wondering if I need to also bed the bottom metal...trigger guard and hinged-floor plate.

I have successfully done a few bedding jobs but never the bottom metal.

Do you feel it is necessary to bed the bottom metal, and if you do, do you bed it separately from the action job or all at the same time....I am wondering how it would be done at the same time since I will have the blind screws protruding down from the action bedding.

Any words of wisdom for me??
 
Posts: 6080 | Location: New York City "The Concrete Jungle" | Registered: 04 May 2003Reply With Quote
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LT,
I'm not a pro stock builder but I've done a few dozen and, when bedding is used, I DO bed the bottom-metal.
This is done as a separate step to bedding the action area.
Too many things can go wrong when bedding top and bottom at the same time.
My 2 cents,
Zeke
 
Posts: 2270 | Registered: 27 October 2011Reply With Quote
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I normally bed the tang and screw area. I don't bed along the side of the mag box. As a separate step


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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i bed the bottom, but don't scim bed the tang i'd full bed that
 
Posts: 13462 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Wow, I just got home and found these great responses....thanks!

So tell me if this sounds good to you:

I will first bed the entire barreled action.

After that I will remove the blind screws, clean up the action and stock, then bed the bottom metal. To bed the trigger guard and the hinged floor plate, I will use the rifles action screws and torque them in place, just the same as if I were attaching the action to the stock.

Does this sound right??
 
Posts: 6080 | Location: New York City "The Concrete Jungle" | Registered: 04 May 2003Reply With Quote
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I don't suck them up that tight.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Whatdaya mean Paul??

Dont torque them...just tighten them??

Use my action screws correct??
 
Posts: 6080 | Location: New York City "The Concrete Jungle" | Registered: 04 May 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Leopardtrack:
Wow, I just got home and found these great responses....thanks!


Well, there's great people here -- worth the "mud". FWIW, Hill Country Rifles also beds bottom metal, part of their "accurizing' we had done on a Weatherby rebarrel job.


_______________________


 
Posts: 4885 | Location: Bryan, Texas | Registered: 12 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Dont torque them...just tighten them??

I will snug them to the point I'm sure I have full contact and the guard etc are in the right spot and level to the stock. Then let it set up. On final assembly I then tighten the screws all the way down. I just use sur

I will also admit to having shot and built rifles for almost 50 years and have NEVER that I remember using a torque wrench etc on the action screws. Smiler


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted I will also admit to having shot and built rifles for almost 50 years and have NEVER that I remember using a torque wrench etc on the action screws. Smiler


Most of the top level target shooters I know do use torque wrenches when putting their barreled actions back in their stocks, no matter how they are bedded. The object isn't that 30 inch-pounds are better than either 20 or 40 inch-pounds, but to get the SAME number of inch-pounds applied each time. Varying poundage can and does negatively affect rifle accuracy over time. I still have the torque wrench I used for more than 25 years of both high power and benchrest competition, competition. I opted to use 30 inch-pounds (2-1/2 ft.-lbs.). The wrench is still set at that.

Anschutz, BTW, supplies an unadjustable torque wrench with their target rifles. It looks like a long Allen wrench, but has two "dimples" in the extra long side of the wrench. Their instructions say to tighten the action screws up just barely snug, then to put one of your fingers in each of the two wrench dimples and lift the upright rifle by just the wrench in the socket screws. The weight of the rifle weight itself will provide the torque and be uniform every time.

But then, what does Anschutz know about accurate rifles..? Wink


My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still.

 
Posts: 9685 | Location: Cave Creek 85331, USA | Registered: 17 August 2001Reply With Quote
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I hand bed the bottom metal, and I have given it a paint coat or two of glass, mostly to moisture proof it, The surface should look finished the same as the outside of the stock. Do it separately...You can do the top inletting full length also and it looks really clean and nice and still be the color of the wood, should just look like polished wood. I could send you a picture to your email if you wish. Can't post one.


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42176 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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