I have done the Chapman and Wisner 2 position safety, but the cut into the shroud looks a little sharp.

all my mausers have the wisner safeties. i didn't cut the shrouds,but i fully understand the process. in a conversation with my gunsmith a long time ago, we came to the conclusion that given that the timing is correct for the bolt lock notch a good fit between safety thickness and slot is the key to a smooth operating saftey. when the wing comes in contact with the cocking piece, if it can be cocked out of alignment with the bolt's centerline the least little bit from a sloppy slot( the least little bit too wide) in the shroud the contact areas between safety and shroud that support the wing's alignment with the centerline of the bolt become so small that they bind from firing pin spring preasure and the safety works "notchy". the wing should fit in it's slot with no percievable play at all so that it is fully supported to rotate parrallel to the bolt's centerline.don't rely on the safety's pivot pin to for alingment, it's just there for the safety wing to rotate on. mic the width of the cutter and have it dressed to cut exactly the same width slot as the wing's thickness, then stone the wing and edges of the slot until the wing just slips in with no play.

To add to that, the Chapman's aren't worth the effort to install. The Wisner lever is so much better, better geometry and finish, that it is a no brainer if the slot it cut right. I might add that the second cut, the one for the bottom of the lever, should be done with little clearance to just clear the flat on the firing pin and the shroud so the lever will not be canted. Also, the cut on the cocking piece should be smooth, I grind mine on the surface grinder.

I think the $20 Chapman can be as good as the $30 Wisner with a few hours a machining, fitting, and bluing.

I bought a safety in shroud from Jim Kobe.
With that in hand and the Chapman fixture and this web site:
http://www.gswagner.com/swede/pmssafety/compare.htm

http://www.gswagner.com/swede/...afety/pmssafety.html

What I would like to know is how to make the semi circle sharp edge over the Wisner safety not be sharp. Weld? grind? What?

I have a question for you all. What is the prevailing opinion comparing the Wisner/Chapman safety as opposed to a Model 70 -Gentry/Dakota three position safety shroud for Mausers? I like the look of the M98 shroud, but I also like the feel of the Model 70 conversion.

What are the pro's and con's of the two? Particularly if it were to go on a dangerous game rifle?

Thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by A7Dave:
I have a question for you all. What is the prevailing opinion comparing the Wisner/Chapman safety as opposed to a Model 70 -Gentry/Dakota three position safety shroud for Mausers? I like the look of the M98 shroud, but I also like the feel of the Model 70 conversion.

What are the pro's and con's of the two? Particularly if it were to go on a dangerous game rifle?

Thanks!

I think the 2 pos go to the fire position "better" than the 3 position m70 type safeties. I personally believe that this makes them better for a DGR. If you want the Mauser look in 3 position Stuart Saterly(sp) manufactures one. It is the best looking Mauser 3 position safety. Stuart posts here as "tinman."

If you do a search I asked the same question several months ago and got some good advice.

Thank you kindly, Mr. Jason! I'll do the search.