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Considering the Remington 700 that has the old style push the safety to the "unsafe position" prior to lifting the bolt.

Does anyone know this? If an aftermarket trigger such as the shilen or jewell is installed, does the safety work the same or does the aftermarket trigger allow you to work the bolt while the safety is in the safe position?

This rifle didn't make the remington recall and is scheduled to be worked over, just curious if an aftermarket trigger will solve the problem.
 
Posts: 175 | Location: Oklahoma | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Whiteeyetattoo:
Considering the Remington 700 that has the old style push the safety to the "unsafe position" prior to lifting the bolt.

Does anyone know this? If an aftermarket trigger such as the shilen or jewell is installed, does the safety work the same or does the aftermarket trigger allow you to work the bolt while the safety is in the safe position?

This rifle didn't make the remington recall and is scheduled to be worked over, just curious if an aftermarket trigger will solve the problem.


If you remove the barreled action from the stock and look at the safety lever on the side of the trigger housing you will see the “ear†that moves up to lock the bolt when the safety is moved to the safe position. Just cut or grind the ear off.

Most of the aftermarket triggers use your safety, but some offer their own at an added cost.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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Thanks Rick
 
Posts: 175 | Location: Oklahoma | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Rick is right on the money. I would suggest if you decide to delete the bolt lock tang by grinding it off, protect against the introduction of metal particulate inside the factory housing.

The metal particulate could interfere with the function of the trigger connector and precipitate a malfunction which could result in an inadvertent discharge in various modes of operation.

Augustis ><>


To Be Safe, First Think You Might Not Be.
 
Posts: 114 | Location: Montana | Registered: 30 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Whiteeyetattoo, I've got a new take-off Remington trigger that you can use if you need it. Give me a call if your other plan doesn't work. I've also got the springs you need to replace the short heavy springs that Remington has been using lately. Give me a call next week. You still owe me lunch anyway....... Smiler Smiler.............DJ


....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!..................
 
Posts: 3976 | Location: Oklahoma,USA | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Just so no one is confused, I didn’t suggest cutting or grinding off the “ear†while its still attached to the trigger housing. I would remove the the assembly, then remove the safety lever from the assembly and do the cutting/grinding.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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Just so no one is confused, I didn’t suggest cutting or grinding off the “ear†while its still attached to the trigger housing. I would remove the the assembly, then remove the safety lever from the assembly and do the cutting/grinding.

Rick

Sorry it was not my intent to imply that you made that suggestion, I simply felt I would add a little more detail as a precautionary measure as to the potential consequences of the introduction of metal particulate into the fire control housing if removing the tang on the bolt lock with the safety still attached to the housing.


Regards, Augustis ><>


To Be Safe, First Think You Might Not Be.
 
Posts: 114 | Location: Montana | Registered: 30 March 2002Reply With Quote
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The Timney Ultra-Light Remington trigger comes with the bolt lock also, but its a separate part that can be easily removed, and you can press down on the safety lever while in the safe position to disengage the lock and remove the bolt if you want to leave that feature in place.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Rick 0311:
Just so no one is confused, I didn’t suggest cutting or grinding off the “ear†while its still attached to the trigger housing. I would remove the the assembly, then remove the safety lever from the assembly and do the cutting/grinding.

I took mine apart last week and ground it down about a 1/16" and put it back together and it works perfect. The project took about 15 minutes.
Remington will do it for you for $20 plus shipping and they may even change out the trigger but that would mean readjustment again so I liked doing it myself and not having to readjust the trigger again or worry about getting lost in shipping.
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: Florida | Registered: 16 December 2004Reply With Quote
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Whiteeyetattoo, I've got a new take-off Remington trigger that you can use if you need it. Give me a call if your other plan doesn't work. I've also got the springs you need to replace the short heavy springs that Remington has been using lately. Give me a call next week. You still owe me lunch anyway....... .............DJ
And a 12 of some very good beer, if you help me wit my .264 action problem. I'll be seeing you soon when we get together with McBuff to work on our permit apps.
 
Posts: 175 | Location: Oklahoma | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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