Gentlemen

There are quite a few triggers to choose from for mauser 98's such as originals, timmey, canjar, reck nagel, kepplinger, blackburn etc.

Which is your favorite and why. Does it have any particular features ?

I have a hard time chooseing a new trigger since the one I planned to get was a dissapointment

I have a Timeny trigger in my sportorized k98 Mauser I'm very happy with it.

The original is my favorite for reliability, as in a DGR.

The Kepplinger single set for everything else. The quality is outstanding.

Johan,

Look for a single stage factory style trigger to replace the double stage. I would recommend this especially if you plan to keep the original bolt shroud, with the original safety or a Buehler replacement. I did this on an otherwise stock Persian model 29 (98) Mauser, and it is superb. Sarco here in the US has such triggers for $6.95, which require a little polishing but are good otherwise. The one I used came from E-bay, and appears to be an FN trigger.

Dayton Traister also makes a nice, smooth, easy pulling trigger -- cheap at around $30. Only limitation is a flat spring, which could theoretically break.

Good luck,
Todd

I have used Timney triggers for over 30 years now. On both my personal guns and customers.
No complaints, they are simple and reliable.

Personally have been all over the USA and Canada in lots of weather.

Have one on my P14 in 505 Gibbs, as well as all my Mausers.

James Wisner

That pretty well says it all, coming from someone so talented and knowledgeable in the gun/metalworking business. I have also used the Timneys with great satisfaction and reliability.

Jim

I used a Bold trigger on my 338.06,the safety sticks a long way out the side,I bent mine in and still had to dig a fair bit of wood out.Doing it again I would use the Timmy Deluxe ,instead.

I have also used a couple of Bold triggers, but the versions without the side safety. They have both been good. Actually, I have found that properly worked-over original Mauser triggers can be just as good. Of course, 'properly worked-over' is the operative phrase here.

There are some improvements I try to make when doing a trigger job:
1) The take up. This is how far the trigger has to travel before tripping.
2) The force one has to pull the trigger. This is caused by several things; the trigger spring, the sear spring [if there is a sear and a sear spring], the rougness of the moving parts, the angle of the sear to hammer or sear to trigger or trigger to hammer may require the pulling the trigger to pull back the hammer slightly. Changing the angle can be a mistake if the parts are surace hardened.
3) Overtravel. The distance the trigger travels befre hitting a stop after the trigger has tripped. The force on the trigger before tripping goes away when the trigger is overtraveling, and this can move the rifle. Some guys drill and tap the trigger and put an Allen head screw in the trigger to keep it from getting to close to the back of the trigger gaurd. In 10/22s and Mausers, sometimes I put a piece of a nail in the trigger spring.
4) clean break: It can be a real pain to build stoning jigs and get sharp edges on the sear and hammer, because these surfaces need to break across the edge at the same time.



Mauser trigger job I did with a tongue Silver Soldered on for the take up screw and the spring shroud drilled and tapped for the over travel
screw, and a ball point pen spring substituted for force control.

McFarland book diagram on milling and soldering to Mauser trigger

I have spent today making a drawing of the 91/30 trigger, sear, and reciever and cutting pieces on the mill in my effort to make a non altering trigger mod. This trigger is much harder than the Mauser because the designers of the Mosin Nagant made the trigger also the bolt stop and the sear also the trigger spring. The sear slot in the bolt is also the bolt stop slot. These parts count saveing choices make later modifications problematic.

My custom vz24 has a Timney with the side safety and an FN commercial shroud, I'm pretty happy with it.

Clark:

That is a very foolish way to modify a Mause milsurp trigger. All you are doing is reducing the sear engagement which makes for a dangerous situation in the Mauser trigger.

Jim,
It depends on what one is going to do with the rifle.
If a million boys are being sent to war with it, the rifle already had the correct sear engagement.
If I am going to the range to shoot groups, I choose less sear engagement.

You may need MORE sear engagement

How about the next guy that gets it, or worse yet, when your nephew wants to look at it and drops it on the floor and.... Don't take the chance just to cut the corner on prices. For what you have in that trigger, you could have bought a Timney for $35 and got at least that much peace of mind, not to mention a good trigger.

On my own big game rifles I use the original two stage trigger set to yield a crisp 3 lb second stage with no overtravel.
For an adjustable trigger I am perfectly happy with the Timneys. Regards, Bill.

I always do the rifle butt slam on the floor to test trigger jobs.

It's ok.

Call the doctor and get your medication adjusted.

I have 2 Timneys on Mausers. They are OK - not as great as some triggers (Jewell springs to mind), but serviceable. They can be a bitch to install though - definitely not "drop-in"!
- mike

I have one timney and 3 yugaslavs. The Timney is OK but a little short on engagement and feels a bit dead to me.

The yugoslavs are a revalation - wonderful feel, light and thus far reliable. I particularly like the feature where one can adjust the spring tension on the detente.

When new they 'break in' so ultimate adjustment should be left for a little while. Slam test and a tap on the cocking piece with a hard object are advised.

Timney is my go to...

i tried BOLDs twice... not happy with either, one is still in service, the other is in the "gimme" box... the trigger is too broad, and too long, seriously.

got a canjar on my shilen... it's nice, but nuttin to write home about...

jeffe

Bolds look better than Timney, but both are not as good a trigger as my above handmade trigger jobs.

The Timney and Bolds [~$45] can be had with a safety, and the home made trigger job would require a Bueller.

The $200 Jewells and Shilens are way better than the home made trigger job.

My view of the options:
1) Hunting: home made with Bueller, Bold, or Timeney
2) Varmint, informal target shooting: home made with no safety.
3) Benchrest competion: Jewell or Shilen.

[ 10-07-2003, 19:23: Message edited by: Clark ]

I've got a number of Timneys on mausers and some waiting to go on. They require only a little work to install and they are inexpensive.They work just fine for what I do.

I must say this was a spirited exchange wasn't it?
Roger

I have had some original Mauser triggers that broke so crisp, I ahd to ask why I was replacing them.

My replacemnt brands are Timney and Blackburn. I prefer the Blackburn more for the trigger placement in the bow. As far as function, I think they are on a par with each other.

Has anyone used or have experience with the Mauser triggers from New England Custom Gun(NECG)? They seem like a nice unit though a bit pricy when compared to the Timney or Bold triggers. I am thinking of using one on a custom Mauser that I am having built.

TreeFarmer

If you don't want to mill, Silver solder, drill and tap, and grind off the rear hump yourself, Huber makes Triggers for Mausers:
http://www.huberconcepts.com/Triggers.htm

I usually use the triggers without the safety, using a low swing replacement for the original Mauser safety. I've used Bold and Timney and they are both good.
It seems like the Bold can safely be adjusted a little lighter than the Timney.I like a break at about 2-1/2 Lb. and the Timney sometimes won't safely hold much below 3 Lb. Thats just my experiance with only a few triggers so you may have better luck. The Bold is a few dollars cheaper, usually.